Authorised Vendor TrueBrake Brake Pedal Mod for Logitech G27/G29/G920

[cteters]

Yeah, it’s hard to express how lucky we all really hard to have someone like him around that gives such detail-oriented product reviews. I'm glad that he had the time to put his seal of approval on this one.

 

[deaduotja]

I find the way he gets a little sidetracked pretty entertaining, like how he ends up showing his circlip plier set in this one . I think he is the only youtuber for whom I turned notifications on

Usual good stuff from him though, showing the brake travel and the internal construction etc...

He loves to take everything apart, always like to see his tear downs!

 

[Neilski]

TrueBrake is an upgrade for the for the Logitech G27/G29/G920 brake pedal which gives the pedal a positive and realistic feel.

Hi Rob.
I'm tempted by this (tho also pondering some kinda DIY-style load cell) but my main concern is that I'm using my G27 pedals on a carpet with no option in the near future to move to a rig. So the little plastic teeth which grip the carpet are all I've got to push against...
The curve on the website implies that the load to reach the maximum reading is well over 30 kg.
I suspect that this might exceed the limits of the gripper (or my carpet? ) and am wondering if there's any option to buy a kit with a somewhat lower max load?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

I'm using my G27 pedals on a carpet with no option in the near future to move to a rig

No help to you unfortunately, but this reminds me of one nice little touch that Barry did in his review. He chose a low-cost stand to mount it all on and then had some straps to keep the seat in place.

 

[CRMS]

>I'm using my G27 pedals on a carpet....
How far is your pedal base from a wall/skirting board??

If only a few feet, get a couple of small planks of wood, say 19mm thick x 125mm wide and cut to length, to put between pedal base and wall. Pedals will then be jammed against something solid.
As a refinement, one can put another post from a stop screwed onto one plank up at approx 45 degrees to brace against a wheel clamp.
I used my TM T150/T3PA gear and then Fanatec V3 pedals and DD1 wheel like this until I got a rig. Solid enough.

 

[Neilski]

f only a few feet, get a couple of small planks of wood, say 19mm thick x 125mm wide and cut to length, to put between pedal base and wall. Pedals will then be jammed against something solid.

Yeah, that might be worth a try, thanks. There is some stuff between the pedals and the wall but I could probably find a way to shift it...

 

[CMcG]

TrueBrake Delivery Time Update.

Please note if you are thinking of ordering TrueBrake. My order number is 2473 in batch number 5. I have been emailed by Rob to say my shipping date is not before 20th July.

The Axc-Sim website currently states that batch 8 is taking orders to ship from 27th July. I’d take that with a gigantic pinch of salt if I were you.

 

[morsify]

It's July, and I'm starting to get excited for the arrival of my Truebrake.

I've been trying to set my very best lap time possible on two or three tracks in RRE, so I can see how it affects my driving for better or worse when it arrives:
Nordschleiffe in the BMW M6 GT3; Daytona in a Porsche 911 RSR 2019; Brands Hatch in an Aquila CR1, and hopefully I'll add a couple of others if I get time.

 

[Locoblade]

Yesterday I found @GeekyDeaks DIY LoadCell mod. Started reading about it, and later I've found TrueBrake and now not sure what to choose:

1) GeekyDeaks DIY LoadCell
+ real load cell (much more reliable than any pot-based solution?)
+ ?price (it's unknown ;-)
- not compact DIY hard to install
- 3D printed body(fragile?)
- not G29 firendly because progressive curve, but according to @GeekyDeaks it can be corrected in firmware

It can be done for about £25 if you use @GeekyDeaks PCB design (that's including paying ~£15 for the 3d print so less if you have access to one), but if you're concerned about the brake curve then get a LeoBodnar module and make the pedals completely standalone (as I detailed in the Github comments section).

I also wouldnt be worried about the strength of the 3d printed body, a friend printed me a "test" version with only 70% infil (i.e. it's got some air gaps in the middle) thinking I'd get a 100% infil solid version printed if it all worked, but it's holding together absolutely fine after ~2 months and probably 30+ hours of use so I've not bothered asking him to do another. I'm putting decent pressure on the pedal too, I now need to wear shoes as socks alone hurt your feet after a while, and I've also added skateboard grip tape to the pedal face to give me enough grip on the pedal as I found my shoes (old race boots I used on trackdays) were sliding up the standard pedal face even though I'd roughened the plastic nodules to add some grip over stock.

 

[Interslice]

Shipping Detail

Your order was shipped on 2020-07-13 via royalmail. To track shipment, please follow the shipment

sweet. Batch was due for the 6th so pretty on schedule here. Ordered 18th may at max lockdown.

 

[morsify]

Yes, mine was also due on 6th, and was shipped on 8th (ordered 11th May I think), so I'm hoping it's about to arrive, maybe in the morning if I'm lucky.

 

[R Soul]

I placed an order back in May, and it also shipped on 8th. It's using Royal Mail 2nd class so I expect it within 6 weeks.

 

[morsify]

My TrueBrake arrived this morning. While fitting it, I also swapped the other springs, so I put the brake spring into the clutch pedal, and the clutch spring into the accelerator.

All of them are now firmer.

1) I like the clutch pedal. It feels more comparable to a real car, so that is all there is to say about that.
2) I think I like the accelerator pedal more now. The original one was too soft, but this just might be a tiny bit too stiff. But I am getting used to it and it's got more 'feel' than the G27 one, so I'll keep it there.
3) I love the brake pedal! I seemed to get used to it very quickly at first, but then, as I tried to match lap times I had previously set with the old springs, I realised it wasn't quite that straightforward. I find that I am having to retrain my brain to use the shorter travel, in particular to remember to use more force for full braking.
But that's not a negative. The whole experience feels like a BIG improvement over the old brake, and it's definitely not imagined. Yes, it will take me a little while to dial myself in to it, but it is most definitely an improvement, and already it feels like money well spent.
It 's put new life into my G27 pedals.

 

[R Soul]

Mine arrived today. It didn't help that my grounding screw head (from the original pedals, not this mod) has been worn (I cleaned the potentiometer a while ago) so I couldn't remove it, but the mod is installed. Now I need to know how to properly calibrate it for rF2 (e.g. where to set the min and max, unless it's just personal preference).

 

[morsify]

Mine arrived today. It didn't help that my grounding screw head (from the original pedals, not this mod) has been worn (I cleaned the potentiometer a while ago) so I couldn't remove it, but the mod is installed. Now I need to know how to properly calibrate it for rF2 (e.g. where to set the min and max, unless it's just personal preference).

I started by driving hundreds of laps in RRRE, then started adjusting the sensitivity/dead spots in game to get the best result. I think it's personal preference.
I haven't got on to F2 yet, I've stuck with one sim for consistency. I wouldn't go back to the old springs now. After a LOT of laps over the weekend, I am 'up to speed' i.e. matching my old lap times, but still inconsistent & working to find my sweet spot, so it's taking a while for me.

It might not be the same experience for everyone. For me it is certainly not a plug and play, quick fix option. It needs time and a bit of thought for me to work out where my new braking points & pedal pressures are. But I still feel the same - I am extremely happy with it & I'm enjoying dialling it in as it has so much more potential than the old spring.

I'm also yet to experiment with the different buffers. It's a right pain unbolting my pedals from under my desk & I already did it three times this weekend 1) fitting the new brake spring 2)forgot to swap the other springs 3) put the clutch & throttle springs the wrong way round. Doh.

 

[niknaks]

I started by driving hundreds of laps in RRRE, then started adjusting the sensitivity/dead spots in game to get the best result. I think it's personal preference.
I haven't got on to F2 yet, I've stuck with one sim for consistency. I wouldn't go back to the old springs now. After a LOT of laps over the weekend, I am 'up to speed' i.e. matching my old lap times, but still inconsistent & working to find my sweet spot, so it's taking a while for me.

It might not be the same experience for everyone. For me it is certainly not a plug and play, quick fix option. It needs time and a bit of thought for me to work out where my new braking points & pedal pressures are. But I still feel the same - I am extremely happy with it & I'm enjoying dialling it in as it has so much more potential than the old spring.

I'm also yet to experiment with the different buffers. It's a right pain unbolting my pedals from under my desk & I already did it three times this weekend 1) fitting the new brake spring 2)forgot to swap the other springs 3) put the clutch & throttle springs the wrong way round. Doh.

Hi mate thanks for sharing your perspective. When you refer to the old spring are you talking about the stock spring or the GTeye. I have the Gteye and just received the leo bodnar usb standalone cable and wondering it worth it upgrading to this solution. Appreciate everyone's preference is different but would like to hear your experience comparing the GTeye and the AXC

 

[morsify]

I was talking about the old, original G27 brake spring, but:

I did have the GTEye spring in there for about three years, until it suddenly snapped a month ago.
The GTeye was certainly better than the original because it was stiffer, and there was also a slight progression in the stiffness, so I really liked it.

But this Truebrake is completely different to either of those springs because of 1)the shorter travel and 2)the feeling that it is the pressure that matters, NOT the travel.

What I mean is, when using either of those other springs, you had to learn how far to press your foot for full lock, half pressure, or just a bit of brake scrubbing. And it was a long travel.
When using TrueBrake, it's more like you have to learn how hard to press the pedal rather than how far, and the long travel is gone.

So for me, the GTEye was a great improvement, and the Truebrake is another step up.

The only negative(if you can call it that) which some might not like, is the time needed to 'unlearn and relearn' the different pedal behaviour. But then I've been using these simple spring type pedals for, I don't know, as long as they've been around (20+ years?), so my foot has some hard habits to break & it doesn't happen overnight.

 

[niknaks]

I was talking about the old, original G27 brake spring, but:

I did have the GTEye spring in there for about three years, until it suddenly snapped a month ago.
The GTeye was certainly better than the original because it was stiffer, and there was also a slight progression in the stiffness, so I really liked it.

But this Truebrake is completely different to either of those springs because of 1)the shorter travel and 2)the feeling that it is the pressure that matters, NOT the travel.

What I mean is, when using either of those other springs, you had to learn how far to press your foot for full lock, half pressure, or just a bit of brake scrubbing. And it was a long travel.
When using TrueBrake, it's more like you have to learn how hard to press the pedal rather than how far, and the long travel is gone.

So for me, the GTEye was a great improvement, and the Truebrake is another step up.

The only negative(if you can call it that) which some might not like, is the time needed to 'unlearn and relearn' the different pedal behaviour. But then I've been using these simple spring type pedals for, I don't know, as long as they've been around (20+ years?), so my foot has some hard habits to break & it doesn't happen overnight.

Thanks for the response. Think will stick with what I got for now as it works for me atm and cant fathom the idea of taking my pedals of my rig.

 

[R Soul]

My TrueBrake arrived this morning. While fitting it, I also swapped the other springs, so I put the brake spring into the clutch pedal, and the clutch spring into the accelerator.

I ended up doing this too, but not before thinking it would be a good idea to go hardcore and put the old brake spring in the accelerator. It only took a few seconds of driving to realise that was too much. Using the clutch spring instead seems to make it easier to be smooth without damaging my foot.

 

[cteters]

Looks like the TrueBrake will be just as relevant for the next gen Logitech G923 as it is now for the current models. Cheers Rob!