Thrustmaster TX - Decalibration while driving

[Leyenda11]

Hello!

Last week I purchased for the first time a steering wheel for computer gaming, it's a Thrustmaster TX RACING WHEEL LEATHER EDITION.

I have a problem while playing. When I connect it to the computer, everything works perfectly. Until I start to play and while I'm playing, the steering wheel automatically decalibrates. The consequence is that when I have the steering wheel positioned in the centre, in the game the steering wheel is quite a few degrees to the left or right (obviously, without having suffered any damage in the game). It happens almost every time I play and it is quite annoying.

When this happens, the wheel is also out of calibration in the Thrustmaster control panel. To solve this, the only thing I have found is to unplug and plug the USB from the PC and it recalibrates again. This is not an option because there is no way to play.

The drivers I have installed are the latest (2.10.10.0) and firmware 56.00.

I have asked for a replacement and it still happens with the new unit that I have received. Initially I thought it was a hardware issue with the wheel but as it is happening in both units, I've started to think it's a software problem.

I tried it with Assetto Corsa, F1 2018, Grid Autosport and Dirt Rally. I have already format the pc to eliminate potential problems the pc may be causing but it has not solved anything.

I have also open a ticket in the official support site (6 days ago) but I am still waiting for their answer.

Thank you for your help.

 

[Botmeister]

Since it seems like a generic issue for all sim titles, you could try these 2 options.

USB Selective Suspend - Everything You Need to Know About It! - Driver Easy

If you're not sure what USB selective suspend is, or if you can disable it if you want, here is a post telling you everything you need to know.

www.drivereasy.com

Allow The Computer To Turn Off This Device To Save Power | Password Recovery

www.top-password.com

 

[ao1977]

Is it a new or a used wheel?
Thrustmaster wheels occasionally seem to have problems caused by a broken hall sensor mount (like described here) and a displaced hall sensor causes wrong positional data.

 

[Leyenda11]

Thank you both for your answer.

Since it seems like a generic issue for all sim titles, you could try these 2 options.

USB Selective Suspend - Everything You Need to Know About It! - Driver Easy

If you're not sure what USB selective suspend is, or if you can disable it if you want, here is a post telling you everything you need to know.

www.drivereasy.com

Allow The Computer To Turn Off This Device To Save Power | Password Recovery

www.top-password.com

I have done both and I tried to play again Assetto Corsa. It only lasted 10 minutes working properly until it lost the center.
I was beginning to get my hopes up that this would be the solution, but it was not

Is it a new or a used wheel?
Thrustmaster wheels occasionally seem to have problems caused by a broken hall sensor mount (like described here) and a displaced hall sensor causes wrong positional data.

It is a new wheel bought through amazon. This is why I was able to ask for a replacement without any questions. I do not know if the sensor is broken or not, but i do not feel very comfortable opening as it is: i) new and should be working properly; and ii) the second unit that I tried and happens the same decalibration issue.

 

[asteroulis]

It's not a hall sensor problem for sure. If it loses some degrees during racing , I would probably think it does lose some steps in the belt due to it being too loose. But to give a little more tension you'd have to open it. Opening the base is something relatively easy , with no serious risk of voiding the warranty. But , since it's easy for you to just replace it and you are uncomfortable to open the case , then do so.

If it was a broken sensor you'd be having endless calibration issues , and the wheel banging left and right

 

[Leyenda11]

It's not a hall sensor problem for sure. If it loses some degrees during racing , I would probably think it does lose some steps in the belt due to it being too loose. But to give a little more tension you'd have to open it. Opening the base is something relatively easy , with no serious risk of voiding the warranty. But , since it's easy for you to just replace it and you are uncomfortable to open the case , then do so.

If it was a broken sensor you'd be having endless calibration issues , and the wheel banging left and right

What really surprises me is that it is something that happens both when I am turning in a curve and when I am going straight and without any force acting on the steering wheel.

So you recommend me to ask for another replacement? Is this issue something that is known and quite normal in this wheel or is it just bad luck? As far as I know, this base is the same as the T300 and I have not read anything about this issue that you are mentioning (which, btw, makes a lot of sense).

Another option is to go for a T300RS GT instead of this TX, but i do really love the leather wheel of this TX.

 

[asteroulis]

I'd say to ask for a replacement. Yes , it is strange to happen going straight , and I have not encountered this kind of problem in either TX or T300 servo bases.
And yes , the leather wheel is probably the best wheel from the entire lineup for casual racing with bear bare ( ) hands.

 

[ao1977]

casual racing with bear hands.

Bear hands or bare hands, that's the question.

 

[AmazingReflex]

This could be your issue.

 

[Leyenda11]

Bear hands or bare hands, that's the question.

View attachment 464275
This could be your issue.

hahahahahahahahaha of course that's a known issue, but for sure it's not what is happening to this wheel!

I'd say to ask for a replacement. Yes , it is strange to happen going straight , and I have not encountered this kind of problem in either TX or T300 servo bases.
And yes , the leather wheel is probably the best wheel from the entire lineup for casual racing with bear bare ( ) hands.

Finally, I decided to open the wheel as it was only a matter of 8 screws and check the belt tension. In my opinion, it was as tight as it should be, it operated the mechanism correctly and I did not see any malfunction nor anything strange going there.

I followed this video:

I ran out of ideas...

 

[VictorFT150]

ITS USUALLY.. THE PIECE OF PLASTIC THAT HOLDS THE SENSOR ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR.. UNSCREW THE 2 SCREWS ON THE SENSOR.. IF IT BREAKS APART.. THERES UR ISSUE.. IF IT HAS A CRACK IT IN . THERES YOUR ISSUE.. I NOTICED 99% OF THE ISSUES. RELATED TO CALIBRATION ARE THE HALL SENSOR HOUSING THAT HOLD IT TO THE BACK OF THE MOTOR. 3D PRINT ONE OR GRAB ONE FROM THRUSTMASTER. AND BOOM. IVE FIXED A T300. AND A TX.. AND ONE HAD A BUM MOTOR. AND SENSOR. OTHER JUST HAD A BAD SENSOR PLASTIC PIECE AND I JUST SAID SCREW IT AND REPLACED THE ENTIRE HALL SENSOR PIECE AND MOTOR AND NOW THEY WORK FINE.. THE TX I NOTICED I ENJOY MORE THAN THE T300 I DONT KNOW WHY BUT IT JUST FEELS LIKE SINCE ITS NEWER THAT IT HANDLES BETTER.. BUT YA CHECK THAT OUT GUYS.. THATS WHAT CAUSES THE CRAZY BACK AND FORTH AND NOT CALIBRATING ATLEAST FOR ME THATS WHAT IT WAS ON A TX AND A T300 SINCE I KEEP BUYING BROKEN ONES ONLINE TO FIX IT HASNT LET ME DOWN YET!!!!