thrustmaster tmx using logitech g27 pedals?

[captain_manering]

Hi thinking about getting a tmx to replace my g27 but want to use 3 pedal set up is there an adapter to use my pedals? thanks in advance

 

[Warren Dawes]

I can even use DiView to fine tune responses if needed.

Sorry Rasmus, I meant to use the Bodnar Calibration Utility, not DiView.

 

[daniel1]

I know it's been quite awhile.. But I'm still standing here with cutters in my hand ;the soldering iron nice and hot and the necessary connectors handy.. BUT.... I seem to recall seeing somewhere that if the" g "pedal set has a brake load cell(which I do) it can cause dramas...… I also seem to recall that some rewiring of that load cell was needed. I've searched about but can't find that post anywhere.
Have any of you learned chaps seen anything along those lines?
Any input would be greatfully received..
(I can then change my mind regarding indecision) Sorry ..couldn't help it.....

 

[Case_]

My assumption would be that if the load cell was connected to be compatible with the Logitech wheel, then it should output a signal equivalent to the potentiometer brake and therefore it should also be possible to connect it to the TMX wheel using an adapter.

But no direct experience, so...

 

[daniel1]

My assumption would be that if the load cell was connected to be compatible with the Logitech wheel, then it should output a signal equivalent to the potentiometer brake and therefore it should also be possible to connect it to the TMX wheel using an adapter.

But no direct experience, so...

Thanks...My thinking too.. I'ii wait a bit see if there is any more input.

 

[RasmusP]

What Martin said. Afaik the wheelbases are "dumb" so if the signal is compatible with the logitech base, it should be okay at a thrustmaster base!
As long as the other 2 pedals work of course

 

[daniel1]

Well... That did not go well at all... I did the wiring ((RJ12 to DB90 )as per the references.... The TM Wheel just shut down.. Zip /Nil/ no light no power. I then went and did the Arduino G27 pedal to USB from AMS or something via u tube … The sketch won't load.. Unless some one out there can help/suggest, I will take the wheel rim off the Logitech unit and plug the usb into the hub and away we go. A bit if a PITA .. but .

 

[Case_]

Sure you have your wiring correct? That kinda sounds like a short.

 

[daniel1]

Yeah,Martin. I'll have another closer look... I would prefer the "hardwire "method over the Arduino setup.
I'll report back.

 

[daniel1]

I re-examined the DB9 no probs there..Plugged in theRJ and the wheel base "went home" i.e shut down. Withdrew the RJ and it came on again... Now without wishing to appear like a complete d**k can I verify the diagram re the DB/RJ connection... What is termed as the "front of the DB Iam assuming that this refers to the face that has the "holes"in it and not the Solder face?

 

[Case_]

This wiring is working for me (sans load cell, obviously):

https://www.iaag66.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2519

The DB9 is shown from the front, not from the side of the solder points, while the RJ12 is shown from the back, where the wires come out.

 

[daniel1]

Sorry bot the time delay.. called in to work.. Your comment re load cell has me worried .. yes I do have a load cell brake.

 

[Case_]

I'm really not sure why me simply pointing out I don't have a load cell has you worried. I've shared my opinion on the possibility of using a load cell setup before, nothing has changed on that.

 

[daniel1]

Hey Martin , Instead of "worried' I perhaps should have said "curious". Would having the load cell and it's associated wiring have any effect on what I'm trying to do' ??
As an update ..I found another DB9 and re did the soldering.. And you wouldn't believe it but one of the soldering "spikes" on the DB9 fell off!!. I then attached the replacement plug to the wheel via the RJ12 and things began to happen. The tm wheel started to rotate/recalibrate; the mode light flashed on and off furiously and the pc kept "dinging" as it does when a device is being added or removed!!!
Anyway I stopped the proceedings as I didn't want to bugger up the wheel
.So It's back to the think tank.I'll see if I come up with any more bright ideas....
Nonetheless, I appreciate your input and if you think of anything I'm "all ears".

 

[antonkw_sky]

Hi all!
I have Logitech g29 (seems like the wheel is broken) and want to buy Thrustmaster.
Here is the question. Is it possible to leave g29 just as connector and use new Thrustmaster wheel?
Not sure if Windows/Assetto Corsa will alow to just ignore one of the wheels.
Is anybody has such expirience?
Thanks,
Anton

 

[asteroulis]

Hi all!
I have Logitech g29 (seems like the wheel is broken) and want to buy Thrustmaster.
Here is the question. Is it possible to leave g29 just as connector and use new Thrustmaster wheel?
Not sure if Windows/Assetto Corsa will alow to just ignore one of the wheels.
Is anybody has such expirience?
Thanks,
Anton

Yes you can do that. But it takes so much space , Get a compact adaptor to be safe...

 

[antonkw_sky]

Yes you can do that. But it takes so much space , Get a compact adaptor to be safe...

I shocked a little bit by the fact that I need to throw out g29 wheel after 1.5 years of usage. It is pretty crazy for me to connect 800$ wheel to 7-years notebook and connect it with 40$ (20$ is delivery) connector

 

[asteroulis]

I lost you there..

I do make adaptors and they work excellent with thrustmaster bases. Its just three pots, the same as their own pedals.
Now about throwing your wheel, isn't it under warranty? Also try selling for spares if it's not.

 

[Case_]

connect it with 40$ (20$ is delivery) connector

Then get two connectors for like 5 bucks (though the asymmetrical TM one can be a bit of a pain to find, but you can also just cut the wire from the crappy TM pedals that come with most TM wheels) and a bit of wire and make the adapter yourself, it's just wires, no electronics. Takes 10 minutes to make, works flawlessly. And certainly beats trying to connect pedals through another wheel base.

 

[Outspacer]

One thing worth mentioning about using a wired adapter for Logitech pedals to a Thrustmaster wheel (or vice-versa) is that the power connections are swapped over. (If it wasn't, the pedals would work backwards).

That's not a problem in a lot of cases, but can be when both wheel and pedals are bolted to a metal rig - then the pedal's supply voltage (+5V or +3.3V, I forget which the TM runs at) can be shorted to ground through the rig. And that's not good at all! There is a simple workaround for this problem though - disconnect the three grounding tags inside the pedals and wrap them in tape (since grounding will be provided by the rig, this is OK).

Also it means that load cell amps won't work (and similarly to the pots, if the power is swapped back the voltage output is backwards). This is why there are Logitech and Thrustmaster versions of load cell amps, and for using Logitech pedals with a Thrustmaster wheel via a cable adapter you'd want the Thrustmaster version (and swap the power connections to it, to reverse the swap in the adapter cable).

The Bodnar usb adapter avoids those issues because the power to the pedals is correct.

The worst option of all is using the Ricmotech usb adapter for Thrustmaster pedals along with a cable adapter from Logitech pedals, since the issues above remain. Nothing wrong with either product, but it doesn't make sense to use them together. The Bodnar will do a better job.

 

[XiL]

One thing worth mentioning about using a wired adapter for Logitech pedals to a Thrustmaster wheel (or vice-versa) is that the power connections are swapped over. (If it wasn't, the pedals would work backwards).

That's not a problem in a lot of cases, but can be when both wheel and pedals are bolted to a metal rig - then the pedal's supply voltage (+5V or +3.3V, I forget which the TM runs at) can be shorted to ground through the rig. And that's not good at all! There is a simple workaround for this problem though - disconnect the three grounding tags inside the pedals and wrap them in tape (since grounding will be provided by the rig, this is OK).

Also it means that load cell amps won't work (and similarly to the pots, if the power is swapped back the voltage output is backwards). This is why there are Logitech and Thrustmaster versions of load cell amps, and for using Logitech pedals with a Thrustmaster wheel via a cable adapter you'd want the Thrustmaster version (and swap the power connections to it, to reverse the swap in the adapter cable).

The Bodnar usb adapter avoids those issues because the power to the pedals is correct.

The worst option of all is using the Ricmotech usb adapter for Thrustmaster pedals along with a cable adapter from Logitech pedals, since the issues above remain. Nothing wrong with either product, but it doesn't make sense to use them together. The Bodnar will do a better job.

Sorry to rez this old thread but I had the same problem as RasmusP , & it is like you said, I had the logi pedals bolted to a metal rig and when I plugged in the TS PC the pedals didnt register properly then after a few minutes they just failed to register at all! I had no idea about this grounding thing.
Not really sure what I can do now as I tried unbolting the pedals from the rig & they still dont register at all?
We really should have been told about this in the DB9 adapter instructions or on the Thrustmaster website that sells it.
Thanks anyway for shedding some light on what went wrong.