The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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For those of you building SFX-100 rigs (or adding traction loss / belt tensioners), I do have a small quantity of SFX-100 shields left over from the last group buy. If you are in need of a shield, please send me a PM for more details. Thanks!

ShRkzay.jpg
 
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Motor mount.jpg
Hi guys,
I've been getting pretty good progress on improving my 3D prints, but for some strange reason, I get this weird impairment on every printed copy of the motor mount. It's pretty much on the exact same spot and same pattern. Anyone else experienced this issue?
View attachment 318316
FYI: printed my first motor mount and got a funny seam as well. I checked the gcode: it's not in the code. My guess it's the point where the printhead moves to the next layer. Nothing to worry about. Printer: Ender 3 Pro, slicing software: PrusaSlicer 2.0, filament: Extrudr NX-2, layer height 0.2.
 
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For those of you building SFX-100 rigs (or adding traction loss / belt tensioners), I do have a small quantity of SFX-100 shields left over from the last group buy. If you are in need of a shield, please send me a PM for more details. Thanks!

ShRkzay.jpg

I would like to take this opportunity to thank @Pyronious for not only designing the board, putting a lot of work into documentation and video tutorials, but also for organizing and supporting the group purchase and shipping.

Together with Stefan H., @HoiHman , @C64 , @RowanH and @acekrusty23 more than 400 SFX-Shields were ordered, distributed worldwide and shipped to users all over the world.

Anyone who has ever organized a group buy knows how much work it takes to organize the orders, collect addresses, manage the receipt of money, organize shipping routes, handle customs, pack everything and finally ship it.

And these gentlemen have done so in over 400 cases, my utmost respect and thanks for your work and time.
 
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View attachment 323888
FYI: printed my first motor mount and got a funny seam as well. I checked the gcode: it's not in the code. My guess it's the point where the printhead moves to the next layer. Nothing to worry about. Printer: Ender 3 Pro, slicing software: PrusaSlicer 2.0, filament: Extrudr NX-2, layer height 0.2.

That artifact is called a Z seam. It comes from your slicing software. Technically, it is in your g-code (but not the STL file). Set your perimeter (or layer) start points to “random” to eliminate this.
 
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Has anyone used the item24 profiles or have gotten a quote? I put in a quote but accidentally put in the wrong length of 100mm, but for 4 profiles it only came out to 80 shipped to me, given the unit price, 155-160 should be the correct price, this makes it cheaper than ordering from kinetik if based in the US... no?
 
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I bought a single length of ITEM24 profile in the UK that I built the first actuator from. Get in contact with your local ITEM supplier you can probably get the order changed. I would reccomend getting ITEM to quote for tapping the holes for you as well unless you have the correct tap. My ITEM actuator has been running without any problems for nearly 6 months.
 
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I bought a single length of ITEM24 profile in the UK that I built the first actuator from. Get in contact with your local ITEM supplier you can probably get the order changed. I would reccomend getting ITEM to quote for tapping the holes for you as well unless you have the correct tap. My ITEM actuator has been running without any problems for nearly 6 months.

What did you use as a replacement for the slot nuts that you’re supposed to order from Kinetik too?
 
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Just curious if anyone has experienced issues with the SFX 100 causing issues with power line ethernet ?

I realize this is an edge case but that's what I use to get network service to the basement where the rig is.
 
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@diablo2112
How are you finding the screen mounted to the moving platform?

I'm busy designing my system now, (Ive got the same screen), also mounted to the platform in the design, as that made the most sense to me, but having the screen moving around could potentially cause issues (vibration damage) ?

I definitely prefer this setup, as opposed to a static mounted screen … ?
 
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