The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Common, Spill the Beans Henk, What did you do wrong....:p :roflmao:

One of the ground wires of the arduino had come loose.:redface: You can not immediately notice this as the rig moves up, but doesn't move down.

However due to the weight of the chassis it DOES go up AND down, but the downwards movement is not driven by the motors. The problem was that i had Heat shrink tubing over the wire, so i was hard to see that it had come loose. This will probably be updated in the wiki, incase anybody else runs into this issue.

Anyway again the whole Simfeedback Team has been AMAZING.

They immediate came on the Simfeedback Discord Channel and tried to help me fix it.

A working video. This is just with the basic setting and only at 1200 RPM.

 
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One of the ground wires of the arduino had come loose.:redface: You can not immediately notice this as the rig moves up, but doesn't move down.

However due to the weight of the chassis it DOES go up AND down, but the downwards movement is not driven by the motors. The problem was that i had Heat shrink tubing over the wire, so i was hard to see that it had come loose. This will probably be updated in the wiki, incase anybody else runs into this issue.

Anyway again the whole Simfeedback Team has been AMAZING.

They immediate came on the Simfeedback Discord Channel and tried to help me fix it.

A working video. This is just with the basic setting and only at 1200 RPM.


Great you managed to solve it. Many thanks for the video, it's looking great! :thumbsup:

I have a question, what's the main source of the noise? I mean the banging?

Is it caused by the rig feet banging to the floor with fast movements as they go little bit airborne and then hit the ground? Or is it inside actuators? I suppose there's nothing, that could bang inside actuator. Or something else?

Do you think, if you put the feet on good isolation, would it resolve the banging?

I was thinking about something like this - https://eshop.potichu.cz/produkt/antivibracni-akusticka-podlozka-54mm/ - dedicated antivibration pad, for example for washing machines etc., sorry for the link in czech, couldn't find some alternative right now.
 
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One of the ground wires of the arduino had come loose.:redface: You can not immediately notice this as the rig moves up, but doesn't move down.

However due to the weight of the chassis it DOES go up AND down, but the downwards movement is not driven by the motors. The problem was that i had Heat shrink tubing over the wire, so i was hard to see that it had come loose. This will probably be updated in the wiki, incase anybody else runs into this issue.

Anyway again the whole Simfeedback Team has been AMAZING.

They immediate came on the Simfeedback Discord Channel and tried to help me fix it.

A working video. This is just with the basic setting and only at 1200 RPM.


Looks so good well done!

How much PETG do you estimate for all the parts?
 
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Great you managed to solve it. Many thanks for the video, it's looking great! :thumbsup:

I have a question, what's the main source of the noise? I mean the banging?

Is it caused by the rig feet banging to the floor with fast movements as they go little bit airborne and then hit the ground? Or is it inside actuators? I suppose there's nothing, that could bang inside actuator. Or something else?

Do you think, if you put the feet on good isolation, would it resolve the banging?

I was thinking about something like this - https://eshop.potichu.cz/produkt/antivibracni-akusticka-podlozka-54mm/ - dedicated antivibration pad, for example for washing machines etc., sorry for the link in czech, couldn't find some alternative right now.


The "banging" is just the rear of the rig coming of the floor and slamming back down. The rig is not properly balanced yet

Just put the GS-4 on it, but it's impossible drink a cup of coffee while sitting in the seat.


It feels so great to have something that you probably need to turn down to fully enjoy it :roflmao:

@SIMON, i lost count but probably 3-4 rolls of Pteg
 
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That's fantastic to hear people are coming in and helping builders where they need it. The community aspect of sim racing is fantastic and makes projects such as this one possible. I feel very lucky to be part of such a knowledgeable and helpful crew both here at RD and abroad.

A big hand to those lending their experience and expertise to Henk. The success of his build will no doubt fuel a much bigger community of sim racers seeking a viable motion alternative.
 
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My sim rig will always have to be in an upstairs room in my current house (and I've no plans to move..!). Does anyone foresee an issues with NOT having it on a solid concrete floor? Apart from the obvious noise transferred downstairs, I'm wondering if the ceiling below might end up cracking from all the thumping. I imagine it'll be like four rubber mallets being hammered on the floor during use.
 
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Noise can be an issue, but nothing more. You can always turn it down until it's almost quiet, but you probably won't feel much any more.:roflmao:

Personally i will have "nightly settings" next to the "full race modes" as also have for simcommander and DIY windsim. I'm pretty confident that the "silent" experience will still be great.

Overall i'm very happy i sold my NLMv3. It would case way too much wobble and even though they claim it can handle a D-box motion rig, i doubt it can handle the SFX100

I already anticipated that the mounting brackets of the GS-4 need reïnforcing and that's absolutely the case. The whole seat is shaking like crazy.

This IS the OSW of motion.

There's no doubt about and i expect great future for the SFX100. As soon as it's ready i will have friends coming over and i'm very confident that some of them will order the parts the very next day:D

Talked to Florentin yesterday and watch out for one of his next videos, you will be amazed.
 
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My sim rig will always have to be in an upstairs room in my current house (and I've no plans to move..!). Does anyone foresee an issues with NOT having it on a solid concrete floor? Apart from the obvious noise transferred downstairs, I'm wondering if the ceiling below might end up cracking from all the thumping. I imagine it'll be like four rubber mallets being hammered on the floor during use.

I am actually in very similar situation. My rig is upstairs but the floor is supported by wooden joists in oppose to concrete floor.

I wonder the same if the pounding could be a problem?
 
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The "banging" is just the rear of the rig coming of the floor and slamming back down. The rig is not properly balanced yet

Just put the GS-4 on it, but it's impossible drink a cup of coffee while sitting in the seat.


It feels so great to have something that you probably need to turn down to fully enjoy it :roflmao:

@SIMON, i lost count but probably 3-4 rolls of Pteg

That's great! I'm on board, but I will need to finish some other projects in the meantime.

I wonder how will motion go together with tactile installation I got:


I found out, the tactile is best utilized when on soft isolators as seen on the video above. I hope the motion will work with it, as the tactile is giving me perfect response on fast vibrations, so I would mostly use the motion to give me vertical heave / roll / pitch and it wouldn't have to be set up to be that sharp as it's handled by tactile, so the motion could be very silent.

I can always stiffen the isolation if it would be problem or use it just as the seat mover.

Really looking forward to this!
 
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Ah man it's gonna be a long few weeks....

latest
 
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I think you'll have this problem with any D-Box style motion though.. and this one apparently being one of the strongest and fastest, you can suit your style :)

Am I correct to assume speed is the most contributing factor to the banging? Since inertia keeps the rig airborne while the feet go back down faster... so you could add max speed for night sessions maybe? Also, what will extra weight do, like a heavy seat + wheel + four heavy buttkickers + person? Will it be planted more? I think with this amount of power available the SFX100 will give you lots of options no matter how you plan your rig.
 
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I think you'll have this problem with any D-Box style motion though.. and this one apparently being one of the strongest and fastest, you can suit your style :)

Am I correct to assume speed is the most contributing factor to the banging? Since inertia keeps the rig airborne while the feet go back down faster... so you could add max speed for night sessions maybe? Also, what will extra weight do, like a heavy seat + wheel + four heavy buttkickers + person? Will it be planted more? I think with this amount of power available the SFX100 will give you lots of options no matter how you plan your rig.

All that additional weight should help but it might also be to do with harsh settings. Whenever I've seen a D-Box in motion (which admittedly, is mainly in Barry's videos) it always seems to be a gentler sprung undulation rather than a harsh rattling, even though he tests at Sebring with its uneven concrete slabs and gaps. That might be down to the suspension settings of the cars he's driving or just the way he likes his motion effects, and/or the difference between magnetic and geared actuators, but I can't remember seeing D-Box rattling a rig harshly at high frequencies. I'm sure it can be dialled out if its a problem,
 
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BTW this is commercial system from Brazil:


This short video shows amazing synchronization of the system with the game physics system and simulation of real life driving in general. I guess it is down to two factors, speed of actuators (600mm/s) and low latency. Apparently 600mm/s is enough to reproduce 90% of all telemetry in 1:1. The last 10% would cover the most violent of events (which are probably better left alone anyway ;) ).

Henk I hope you could do similar recording one day when you are ready. It would be very interesting to see how this project compares.

Thanks
 
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BTW this is commercial system from Brazil:


This short video shows amazing synchronization of the system with the game physics system and simulation of real life driving in general. I guess it is down to two factors, speed of actuators (600mm/s) and low latency. Apparently 600mm/s is enough to reproduce 90% of all telemetry in 1:1. The last 10% would cover the most violent of events (which are probably better left alone anyway ;) ).

Henk I hope you could do similar recording one day when you are ready. It would be very interesting to see how this project compares.

Thanks

I’ve had a look at those actuators, they are pretty awesome. Very silent and very fast. Using the same principle as these DIY actuators, with linear gearing and servo motors, control box etc. but using Simtools for software. Price is 2300$ per actuator including control box. so 9200$ total NOT including shipping and taxes. They are VERY silent though, and extremely fast. I’d wager it’s still a better deal than D-Box, because they seem to be almost as silent, maybe faster and surely more travel for your dollars. But still four times as expensive as these SFX100 DIYs.
 
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