The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[ColinMac]

That looks proper impressive. I'm hoping to do it too - although am not practical enough to build them myself, so need to wait for some enterprising soul... hint hint !

 

[HugoB]

Some more video's

Looks very true to the cars movement in game!

I can't really tell if there is micro movement going on, it looks like the slow shutter speed of the camera due to low light is swallowing some of the finer details, is that possible?

 

[Mascot]

Very excited to see the progress of these builds! I wasn't getting update alerts from this thread for some reason so there's a lot to absorb.
Does anyone have concerns about wear on the 3DP parts? I can't work out if there's any friction patches between them and the metal parts.
Also, what 'grease' are people using? The instructions are non-specific but you do need to be a little careful as some lubricants can attack plastic.

Ref the cost of the 3DP parts, I was wondering what it would cost to get a bunch of them CNC machined from nylon billet. Anyone looked into this?

I was also wondering whether there was a motor available somewhere that is already internally geared to drive a piston rather that a rotational shaft, but I'm guessing this has already been exhaustively researched. It would certainly make things one hell of a lot simpler.

 

[anton_Chez]

This is AWESOME. The fact that it's coming together so fast for you Hoi is very encouraging. It's so good to have technically minded people to feed off. I still wouldn't want to do it myself but definitely willing to spend a few bob extra to have access to them.

 

[cprelot]

keep posting progress It's cool! I check everyday!

 

[RaceNut]

Nice work @HoiHman

I'm really looking forward to seeing this mounted up and in action.

Overall, I hope for some ongoing evolution to take place with any DIY-oriented project; who knows, maybe even a single-controller solution similar to SimuCube (Direct-drive OSW wheels) will emerge in time.

The D-box controller & PSU box (2-3 actuators) is pretty compact and need to be, especially when combined with tactile-setups that can compete for limited space.

One somewhat unique aspect of D-box effects is that of slip-effect; it produces a vibration during traction-loss. With some titles (rF2), it occurs with rear traction-loss but, in AC / ACC, it occurs with the front as well and can actually be a very effective grip-loss cue. It also adds a lot of drama to spin's, something I do fairly often!

I know SimVibe has something similar but, it hasn't proven as effective from my testing so, it will be very interesting to see what can be achieved with the DIY solution.

 

[HoiHman]

Well guys, it will be a while before the whole thing is wired up and ready to go.

Getting the wiring done is kind of tricky especially since this will be a mobile rig. The motors just have too much cable attached to them for me to work with. But i'm already working on a solution.


Also....today my 80/20 profiles arrived

So currently i'm assembling a whole new rig for these babies

The great thing about the 3d printed parts is that as soon as the rig is up and running, i will print a spare of every part and keep it on the shelf. I might even go further a buy a spare bearing and spindle.

Don't want to be down for weeks like i had with my next level motion v3. That's one of the best things about diy. If stuff breaks, you can fix it yourself.

 

[Mascot]

...I will print a spare of every part and keep it on the shelf.

I'd hate your shelf to break under the weight of all those spares. Want me to store them for you until you need them..?

 

[HoiHman]

@RaceNut

Dean, it looks like these actuators have the ability to simulate rear traction loss to

This video inspires me to build even faster

 

[HugoB]

Wow... that looks so fast.. and yet so silent.. I can't tell the difference from what I've seen from D-box footage. Visibly at least, the same amount of very small shakes and bumps are present. And yet I can see the long travel distance being a huge advantage as compared to D-Box 1.5'' actuators. Lets hope a real life comparison will happen soon. If it's as good, or even better, this is the steal of the century.

 

[d69morpwr]

Well guys, it will be a while before the whole thing is wired up and ready to go.

Getting the wiring done is kind of tricky especially since this will be a mobile rig. The motors just have too much cable attached to them for me to work with. But i'm already working on a solution.


Also....today my 80/20 profiles arrived

So currently i'm assembling a whole new rig for these babies

The great thing about the 3d printed parts is that as soon as the rig is up and running, i will print a spare of every part and keep it on the shelf. I might even go further a buy a spare bearing and spindle.

Don't want to be down for weeks like i had with my next level motion v3. That's one of the best things about diy. If stuff breaks, you can fix it yourself.

Any thoughts on possibly making some pieces yet? I know you had mentioned pricing some posts back.

 

[d69morpwr]

@RaceNut

Dean, it looks like these actuators have the ability to simulate rear traction loss to

This video inspires me to build even faster

Did I get the video wrong when he showed the rear traction loss working? It looked to me like it just turned the seat on the rig.

 

[d69morpwr]

For those of us in the states they can make the same motor in a 110 version also for an additional 33 dollars. That may vary some depending on who you get pricing from.

 

[anton_Chez]

Did I get the video wrong when he showed the rear traction loss working? It looked to me like it just turned the seat on the rig.

I think the rear traction loss being shown is the vibrations of the motors, rather than the seat moving. He does have a rear traction loss actuator there connected, but it's not powered on in this video. The sound would give it away instantly, the seat belt tensioner and RTL motors are super loud and chirpy compared to the main ones.

By the way, how SICK was it when he went over the jump. I cannot wait to experience that. The V3 does a good job in rally and I was certainly convinced I was going over jumps in VR, but this would be amazing to feel. The strength of the car hitting the ground and bouncing back up is going to need to be felt to be believed.

 

[Insert Coin]

I think the rear traction loss being shown is the vibrations of the motors, rather than the seat moving. He does have a rear traction loss actuator there connected, but it's not powered on in this video. The sound would give it away instantly, the seat belt tensioner and RTL motors are super loud and chirpy compared to the main ones.

By the way, how SICK was it when he went over the jump. I cannot wait to experience that. The V3 does a good job in rally and I was certainly convinced I was going over jumps in VR, but this would be amazing to feel. The strength of the car hitting the ground and bouncing back up is going to need to be felt to be believed.

The guy in the video says traction loss is implemented as a slant to the left or right, so you feel it (mostly) in your shoulders.

 

[d69morpwr]

I think the rear traction loss being shown is the vibrations of the motors, rather than the seat moving. He does have a rear traction loss actuator there connected, but it's not powered on in this video. The sound would give it away instantly, the seat belt tensioner and RTL motors are super loud and chirpy compared to the main ones.

By the way, how SICK was it when he went over the jump. I cannot wait to experience that. The V3 does a good job in rally and I was certainly convinced I was going over jumps in VR, but this would be amazing to feel. The strength of the car hitting the ground and bouncing back up is going to need to be felt to be believed.

It was one of the earlier videos where it looked like the whole seat was turning. You must be talking about the same video because those two motors where very loud in it.

 

[anton_Chez]

The guy in the video says traction loss is implemented as a slant to the left or right, so you feel it (mostly) in your shoulders.

Cool as. I didn't understand a word of it so I wouldn't know!

 

[Mascot]

Cool as. I didn't understand a word of it so I wouldn't know!

The automatic subtitles are hilarious.

 

[HugoB]

I like how when he gets into the seat, the rig doesn’t even move one millimeter, it looks like he is sitting down on a granite stone. That’s 80/20 for you

 

[RaceNut]

With the D-box system, we feel rear traction being regained (side to side movement on a center pivot; function of the angle) but, it also produces vibrations to represent traction-loss quite effectively. Titles may utilize the effect differently for front & rear, rear only, or none at all so it's not fully supported in all cases.

It seems to me that this DIY actuator-system should be capable of providing such effects judging by the videos so it may be more a matter of the software if the motors can change direction fast enough. Acceleration matters in such cases but, it's something we need more information on from users who have experience with both systems.

In any case, if it can't be done through the actuators, then a capable tactile setup can be added to enhance the effect.

The extra travel is really what's needed imo, especially with Rally because the 1.5" systems just can't do convincing jump-landings, especially without the ability to custom tune effects.

I do love the vertical motion that these types of systems provide and having almost 4" of range to work with seems like it would be truly amazing. Even with road racing, the extra range can be used for accel & brake force effects quite effectively, especially in VR.