The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Paul Mullins · Nov 11, 2019

Two questions that I can't seem to find the answer to:

1. Is there a BOM for the hardware (nuts, bolts, washers). I haven't found anything in the documentation or this thread with bolt sizes and lengths.

2. Am I correct that the bolts are only screwing into the 3D printed parts for the fixed and linear bearings?

Cheers

Hoops

diablo2112 · Nov 11, 2019

Complete list of hardware on this page:

Shopping list and sourcing parts

opensfx.com

And yes, many mounting bolts screw (only) into the 3D printed parts. The STL files contain the proper threading for the recommended hardware. Works great. To my knowledge, there's no reports of failure after proper assembly.

Paul Mullins · Nov 11, 2019

Cheers Diablo, not sure how I missed the shopping list - I've poured over the site a million times

I've used the 'bolting into 3D printed part' with some of my own designs with great success but they were never under anywhere near the load these actuators are, so it's good to hear that this works so nicely.

What I have used is brass inserts that are 'post fitted' after printing using the tip of a soldering iron.

That said, given the high success/no failure rate with the SFX-100's design, I'm not about to re-invent the wheel.

Thanks again..!!

diablo2112 · Nov 11, 2019

The main compressive/tensile/bending loads in these parts does not pass through any of the threaded holes. Fixed- and Linear-bearing mounts bolt into the aluminum extrusion, and the fixed bearing (at the top) has a lip that the mount will rest upon in compression. The sliders are in compression under the ballscrew, most of this load is directly from the slider body into the whole of the ballnut; the bolts in this part serve to locate and hold these two parts in compliance.

The motors do screw into the 3D-printed fixed-bearing mount, but this load is torsional and easily handled by the motor and bearing mounts when printed at the recommended settings.

frodus · Nov 11, 2019

Just an FYI to people ordering the Servos and Driver. They're on sale today for 11/11 at Aliexpress at multiple vendors.

Master Jiang (this is the one recommended by the SFX100 team):

221.34€ 52% OFF|90ST M02430 220V 750W Ac Servo Motor 3000Rpm 2.4 N.M. 0.75KW Servomotor Eenfase Ac Drive Permanente Magneet Matched Driver|ac servo motor|ac servo motor 750wservo motor ac - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Supericreate (cheapest option, including shipping):

209.0US $ |220V 750W 90ST M02430 AC Servo motor 3000RPM 2.4 N.M. 0.75KW servomotor Single Phase ac drive permanent magnet Matched Driver|AC Motor| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Steady CNC Machine (second cheapest option, including shipping):

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

Insert Coin · Nov 11, 2019

Well, not exactly on sale... They claim a 50% discount, but the servos are the same price as they were a week ago: they just increased the price by 50% and give a 'whopping' 50% discount.

EsxPaul · Nov 11, 2019

I got all excited there for a moment then compared today's prices to ones I took a screenshot of in Feb '18. They are just a couple of dollars cheaper now.

frodus · Nov 11, 2019

It's possible they were cheaper, but the prices as of the last few weeks, including shipping, put the pricing over $1000 for me in the USA.

Sounds like they've just been increasing the prices, but if you look, so have the rest of the resellers.

Wmacky · Nov 11, 2019

Have any other builders purchased a spare motor / driver for safe keeping, other than Holiman?

metalnwood · Nov 11, 2019

I bought another for the seatbelt tensioner. Always thought if I had a failure it would be an easy swap if an actuator died.

So I havent paid $$ to have something not in use but I can go without the seatbelt for a week and keep the main stuff running.

wrxawd123 · Nov 11, 2019

Did any NA based users ever find 110v versions of the servo? Been going through this thread and iRacing, but it doesn't look like there is a good option? Someone in the discord channel bought these but is selling them, apparently they are 110v versions of our servo. What is the consensus? Are we still using voltage converters or are we able to run the servos on 110v by change that P... parameter?

metalnwood · Nov 11, 2019

It seems to be that the standard version, with a parameter change, has been working on 110v for a few people without issue. I have not heard of any issues from people that have tried it.

I don't think it's information that has specifically come from the manufacturer so thats probably why its not in the offical project documents but I have not heard of anyone that did it with dead servos.

Ekay_Jay · Nov 12, 2019

wrxawd123 said:
Did any NA based users ever find 110v versions of the servo? Been going through this thread and iRacing, but it doesn't look like there is a good option? Someone in the discord channel bought these but is selling them, apparently they are 110v versions of our servo. What is the consensus? Are we still using voltage converters or are we able to run the servos on 110v by change that P... parameter?

I just got my rig up and running a few days ago. I’m currently running 110v on my servos no problem.

sgspenceley · Nov 13, 2019

What a wonderful project, it's been fun to read through peoples projects! I'm new here because I was asked to create Super Sport Evolution design that would allow mounting of the SFX 100 actuators. This version of the plans uses 40 series and I will also be creating a 15 series version.

RCR_Finn · Nov 13, 2019

Those renderings look sweeeet, but I can't help but wonder if there might be some possibilities of refining the center of gravity a bit in case you want to tilt the seat back a bit like it is in real (race) cars? Having it the seat back in exactly 90 degrees looks very uncomfortable, and tilted back, the rear actuators would seem to be way too far front.

Mr Latte · Nov 13, 2019

Currently working on ideas as I want to use a platform for under SFX and considering this to have longish speakers installed each side and house all the rigs cabling. They will likely be positioned between the front/back actuators firing up/outwards at an angle from the base floor. \ ___ /

A query I have is what is the normal height clearance, how high and low does SFX 100 bring the main 8020 frame to the floor? An alternative is to have the speakers housed in below the rig, but then rise it and pull the speakers out when being used.

I need to get an idea of the required clearance, as the intended speakers considered may sit up out of this additional base.

sgspenceley · Nov 13, 2019

RCR_Finn said:
Those renderings look sweeeet, but I can't help but wonder if there might be some possibilities of refining the center of gravity a bit in case you want to tilt the seat back a bit like it is in real (race) cars? Having it the seat back in exactly 90 degrees looks very uncomfortable, and tilted back, the rear actuators would seem to be way too far front.

Thank you RC-FINN, the seat plates have mounting holes to support a wide variety of angled and height positions. The mounting bolts are 58mm away from the rear frame. Is there a sweet spot for positioning the actuators relative to the drivers hip position?

Michael Roitman · Nov 13, 2019

Steve D said:
@Ekay_Jay

1.Ensure that you route the USB cable as far from the motor controllers and servos as possible.

2. Try different USB ports and / or use a good quality powered USB hub. If you have a lot of USB devices to accommodate, consider installing a dedicated PCI card to help spread the load.

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ]: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Buy

www.amazon.co.uk

3. Properly balancing all USB devices across different USB controllers is also considered good practice. This can be down to trial and error or you can use USB View for a more scientific approach. It's cumbersome but useful once you understand what you are looking at!

Universal Serial Bus Viewer in Windows - Windows drivers

Universal Serial Bus Viewer is a Windows graphical UI app that you can use to browse all USB controllers and connected USB devices on your computer.

docs.microsoft.com

4. Look at your USB Power Management settings. (Device Manager / Universal Serial Bus Controllers) Look for Root Hubs and Host Controllers and select Properties / Power Management. Untick 'Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power' if enabled. You can always switch back if you experience any issues.

4. Add a large ferrite core around the USB cable. A good few of us have used them successfully to overcome EMI issues that were affecting our HMDs where base stations are used for tracking. (I.e. Vive, Pimax, Index) However I've known builders to wrap their Arduino USB cables through them, (four or five winds), as a 'belt and braces' approach to avoid potentially random disconnects caused by EMI. Might be worth a try.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en?keywords=1934-1176-ND

Good luck.

I got the ferrite today that you recommended. I didnt realize how large it is. I'll try it tonight...

WHen I look it through, I should put it before the breakaway point, on the cable from the HMD's end, not the end coming from the tri-cable out of the pc/usb/DP, right?

anton_Chez · Nov 14, 2019

Mr Latte said:
Currently working on ideas as I want to use a platform for under SFX and considering this to have longish speakers installed each side and house all the rigs cabling. They will likely be positioned between the front/back actuators firing up/outwards at an angle from the base floor. \ ___ /

A query I have is what is the normal height clearance, how high and low does SFX 100 bring the main 8020 frame to the floor? An alternative is to have the speakers housed in below the rig, but then rise it and pull the speakers out when being used.

I need to get an idea of the required clearance, as the intended speakers considered may sit up out of this additional base.

It will vary greatly between builds. I have mine as close as I possibly can to the floor and when it's resting (without any pads underneath the actuator feet) you probably can't get a foot underneath the main rail. I can now because I've got 3 pads under each foot raising the platform around 50mm. It all depends where you mount your actuators to your frame and obviously how you do it depending on what chassis you're using.

Steve D · Nov 14, 2019

Michael Roitman said:
I got the ferrite today that you recommended. I didnt realize how large it is. I'll try it tonight...

WHen I look it through, I should put it before the breakaway point, on the cable from the HMD's end, not the end coming from the tri-cable out of the pc/usb/DP, right?

Yep, it's a beast. That's right. HMD side of the breakout, approx four or five winds.