The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[diablo2112]

You're close, but some of your parameters have weird units. Lower your first layer thickness to 0.25mm; subsequent layers should be 0.25mm as well.

Your slicer appears to want the top, bottom, and perimeter layers in mm, not layer numbers. If I'm reading your screen right, you've set it for 12mm top and bottom layers. You want 12 layers at 0.25mm each = 3mm each, top and bottom. Ditto for your shell thickness, looks like it's specced in mm. Here, you want 8 perimeter layers. Converting to mm depends on how your nozzles are set, most have a line thickness equal to about 110% of your nozzle width. For a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.45mm lines are standard. 8 of these lines is 3.6mm thick. If you're specing perimeters in mm, you'll want abou 3.5mm here.

200C print temperature is a bit low, depending on what PLA you use. I've printed over 10 full sets now, with Prusament Galaxy Black, at 215 C (60 C Bed).

Print a single part at a time, that way you can debug and test fit w/o killing a lot of filament. I'd start with the slider. That's the hardest and most critical part, and getting it to fit properly in the extrusion will tell you alot about how your built your printer, and whether you have any built-in "skew" (aka, it's not square).

 

[Pucis666]

Thanks Diablo, not only you helped me with the actual settings, but to understand them more too, awesome, thanks a lot

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Hmm, I can’t get the new software up and running. When I try to open it, the logo appears and then nothing else happens.

I’ve tried without the license key and with it. Running the blocking.bat normally and as admin. Running the software as admin and in compatibility modes but still it goes nowhere.

I’ve also updated the firmware on the Arduino.

If I open up the old location it works fine so I’m at a loss at this point.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

I faced the same problem. I couldn’t launch the app regarding which location / folder I put it in.

However I created a new user account in the same PC, I could launch it and working fine. But as soon as I drop the app (whole folder) in to the “Program File” directly, it would not launch.

I settled with creating a new user and leave the app in the “Download” folder.

Hmm, I can’t get the new software up and running. When I try to open it, the logo appears and then nothing else happens.

I’ve tried without the license key and with it. Running the blocking.bat normally and as admin. Running the software as admin and in compatibility modes but still it goes nowhere.

I’ve also updated the firmware on the Arduino.

If I open up the old location it works fine so I’m at a loss at this point.

 

[Hees]

I have a question regarding prof pedals that uses oil pressure (hydraulic cylinder), the question is it ok to mount it on the sfx 100, or its not recommended?!

 

[Weber044]

@Weber044
Thanks lots again that exactly what i wanted i might need to find the optimum option for the sliding element to make it as smooth as possible (surface wise and bearing choice)

@Hess Glad that this would help. Good luck with the build and happy racing! and by the way, I wounder where are you located in the middle east cause I am too from the same region and it is pain in the neck to source T slot profiles and 3d printing consumables.

 

[Weber044]

You can machine them to fit, but that is not the goal of this project.
Any custom design would be easy, like a custom profile, bearings, ...
We want to use only of the shelf parts, so everybody can do it w/o any special machines or services.

It would be great if you can find a ballscrew fitting your profile and I agree, a smaller form factor would be great for many setups.

Thanks for the reply @saxxon66 I agree it would be much easier to customize, just drop that ballnut on the lathe and viola, however, not everyone has the capability and resources to do that, the same reason why I'm trying to source an of the shelf ballnut to keep the same spirit of this project.

There will be always challenges in any project but that is not the end of the journey it's just the beginning.

 

[Weber044]

With the latest release of Simfeedback you just need a second Arduino and shield, So you can connect up to 8 Motors , if you need more, just add another arduino and a shield ..

That is great to know, thanks @Ringorian for the info.

 

[Wmacky]

I thought Nolimits2 was now included with the initial install, but I don't see it. Anyone else?

 

[Hees]

@Hess Glad that this would help. Good luck with the build and happy racing! and by the way, I wounder where are you located in the middle east cause I am too from the same region and it is pain in the neck to source T slot profiles and 3d printing consumables.

Hi @Weber044 am located in Riyadh saudi Arabia
I use shipping forwarders from almost 10 years a go so getting anything from anywhere is relatively easy for me as long as i have the exact description for an item, if the items available it takes no more that 10 days to get anything, so if you need any help for outsourcing and if you need a specific thing just tell me and i will se what can i do i have a good discount from the forwarder.
For 3d printing i can help in that, but i did not print anything yet from the sfx
So i will be glad helping

 

[Insert Coin]

Servos and other parts ordered, 3D-printing, my journey has begun!

 

[Hees]

Good luck with your build, guys plz i did not get any response regarding the pedals

 

[diablo2112]

Hydraulic pedals work fine with the SFX-100. My HPPs have been flawless. BTW, *real* cars - with considerably more vibrations/forces than motion systems - have been using hydraulics for almost 100 years. FYI.

 

[Hees]

What about the leakage issue all over the net?
Is it bad units or wrong assembly?
And yes exactly cars use it for the past century, so is it these pedals not meant to do such thing?
Any brand in specific to give you the max immersion?
I want to get the max feel to reality i can get from the sfx

 

[Weber044]

@Hess I'll PM you instead of spamming the whole thread in here.

 

[Hees]

Sure
Will be waiting

 

[Weber044]

Sure
Will be waiting

PM Sent

 

[Pucis666]

First slider printed, just a quick question as I am new to 3d printing. 1 side as a bit rough compared to other 3, that are perfectly smooth. and the higher on Z axis it gets the worse the quality of that 1 side gets. I am using ender 3 pro. Any suggestions?

 

[sn4il]

My project is almost completed. It's not the prettiest but most of these aluminum profiles served as cnc router & computer desk before I'm looking to use SFX only with iracing. Is there a guide available somewhere??

 

[diablo2112]

First slider printed, just a quick question as I am new to 3d printing. 1 side as a bit rough compared to other 3, that are perfectly smooth. and the higher on Z axis it gets the worse the quality of that 1 side gets. I am using ender 3 pro. Any suggestions?

That looks pretty good, actually. It will be fine for your use. Regarding unevenness, this can be caused by many, many things. It could be specific to your printer. Assuming your belt tensions are good, other possibilities include something loose or a resonance on one axis. Check that all the bolts are tight, etc.

If you remember which axis has the uneveniness, I'd carefully check the belt, idle wheel, brackets, motor mount, and (especially) the set screw holding the drive wheel on the motor shaft for that axis. Something in that axis is slightly loose, perhaps. If this doesn't work, you might have the issue, below.

If you have waviness along just one side that gets worse with z-height, then you may have a resonance issue. This could be in either axis. The most common resonance is due to the offset between the nozzle and the x-axis. As the x-axis moves, there's a sympathetic vibration that sets up in the whole printer, causing the extruder to move in/out from the x-axis. The higher the Z-height, the larger this can become.

This is much, much harder to get rid of. Prusa completely redesigned the extruder in the Mk3s to bring the nozzle closer to the X-axis, precisely to eliminate this problem. Without such drastic solutions, take a close look at your nozzle and hot end, and make sure they're firmly held in the extruder. Tighten anything that looks loose, but not too-tight as you don't want to break anything.

Again, I'm just guessing on this, and there's other possible causes. It doesn't look too bad to me. Print a motor mount, and see how bad that side looks. Another trick is to print a filament with some glitter or glint in it. This effectively hides the Z-axis layer lines, and looks super as a bonus. Here's a brief pic of the slider printed with glitter. If you need recommendations for filaments with this, just ask (like Prusa Galaxy Black or Filament One Pro Glint Grey).