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The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by sjb266, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. diablo2112

    diablo2112
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    You're close, but some of your parameters have weird units. Lower your first layer thickness to 0.25mm; subsequent layers should be 0.25mm as well.

    Your slicer appears to want the top, bottom, and perimeter layers in mm, not layer numbers. If I'm reading your screen right, you've set it for 12mm top and bottom layers. You want 12 layers at 0.25mm each = 3mm each, top and bottom. Ditto for your shell thickness, looks like it's specced in mm. Here, you want 8 perimeter layers. Converting to mm depends on how your nozzles are set, most have a line thickness equal to about 110% of your nozzle width. For a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.45mm lines are standard. 8 of these lines is 3.6mm thick. If you're specing perimeters in mm, you'll want abou 3.5mm here.

    200C print temperature is a bit low, depending on what PLA you use. I've printed over 10 full sets now, with Prusament Galaxy Black, at 215 C (60 C Bed).

    Print a single part at a time, that way you can debug and test fit w/o killing a lot of filament. I'd start with the slider. That's the hardest and most critical part, and getting it to fit properly in the extrusion will tell you alot about how your built your printer, and whether you have any built-in "skew" (aka, it's not square).
     
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  2. Pucis666

    Pucis666

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    Thanks Diablo, not only you helped me with the actual settings, but to understand them more too, awesome, thanks a lot
     
  3. Furnace Inferno

    Furnace Inferno

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    Hmm, I can’t get the new software up and running. When I try to open it, the logo appears and then nothing else happens.

    I’ve tried without the license key and with it. Running the blocking.bat normally and as admin. Running the software as admin and in compatibility modes but still it goes nowhere.

    I’ve also updated the firmware on the Arduino.

    If I open up the old location it works fine so I’m at a loss at this point.
     
  4. DJ_Psymon

    DJ_Psymon

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    I faced the same problem. I couldn’t launch the app regarding which location / folder I put it in.

    However I created a new user account in the same PC, I could launch it and working fine. But as soon as I drop the app (whole folder) in to the “Program File” directly, it would not launch.

    I settled with creating a new user and leave the app in the “Download” folder.

     
  5. Hees

    Hees
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    I have a question regarding prof pedals that uses oil pressure (hydraulic cylinder), the question is it ok to mount it on the sfx 100, or its not recommended?!
     
  6. Weber044

    Weber044

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    @Hess Glad that this would help. Good luck with the build and happy racing! and by the way, I wounder where are you located in the middle east cause I am too from the same region and it is pain in the neck to source T slot profiles and 3d printing consumables.
     
  7. Weber044

    Weber044

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    Thanks for the reply @saxxon66 I agree it would be much easier to customize, just drop that ballnut on the lathe and viola, however, not everyone has the capability and resources to do that, the same reason why I'm trying to source an of the shelf ballnut to keep the same spirit of this project.

    There will be always challenges in any project but that is not the end of the journey it's just the beginning.
     
  8. Weber044

    Weber044

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    That is great to know, thanks @Ringorian for the info.
     
  9. Wmacky

    Wmacky

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    I thought Nolimits2 was now included with the initial install, but I don't see it. Anyone else?
     
  10. Hees

    Hees
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    Hi @Weber044 am located in Riyadh saudi Arabia
    I use shipping forwarders from almost 10 years a go so getting anything from anywhere is relatively easy for me as long as i have the exact description for an item, if the items available it takes no more that 10 days to get anything, so if you need any help for outsourcing and if you need a specific thing just tell me and i will se what can i do i have a good discount from the forwarder.
    For 3d printing i can help in that, but i did not print anything yet from the sfx
    So i will be glad helping
     
  11. Insert Coin

    Insert Coin

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    Servos and other parts ordered, 3D-printing, my journey has begun!
    printing.jpg
     
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  12. Hees

    Hees
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    Good luck with your build, guys plz i did not get any response regarding the pedals
     
  13. diablo2112

    diablo2112
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    Hydraulic pedals work fine with the SFX-100. My HPPs have been flawless. BTW, *real* cars - with considerably more vibrations/forces than motion systems - have been using hydraulics for almost 100 years. FYI.
     
  14. Hees

    Hees
    Premium

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    What about the leakage issue all over the net?
    Is it bad units or wrong assembly?
    And yes exactly cars use it for the past century, so is it these pedals not meant to do such thing?
    Any brand in specific to give you the max immersion?
    I want to get the max feel to reality i can get from the sfx
     
  15. Weber044

    Weber044

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    @Hess I'll PM you instead of spamming the whole thread in here.
     
  16. Hees

    Hees
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    Sure
    Will be waiting
     
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  17. Weber044

    Weber044

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    PM Sent
     
  18. Pucis666

    Pucis666

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    First slider printed, just a quick question as I am new to 3d printing. 1 side as a bit rough compared to other 3, that are perfectly smooth. and the higher on Z axis it gets the worse the quality of that 1 side gets. I am using ender 3 pro. Any suggestions?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
  19. sn4il

    sn4il

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    My project is almost completed. It's not the prettiest but most of these aluminum profiles served as cnc router & computer desk before :) I'm looking to use SFX only with iracing. Is there a guide available somewhere?? [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  20. diablo2112

    diablo2112
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    That looks pretty good, actually. It will be fine for your use. Regarding unevenness, this can be caused by many, many things. It could be specific to your printer. Assuming your belt tensions are good, other possibilities include something loose or a resonance on one axis. Check that all the bolts are tight, etc.

    If you remember which axis has the uneveniness, I'd carefully check the belt, idle wheel, brackets, motor mount, and (especially) the set screw holding the drive wheel on the motor shaft for that axis. Something in that axis is slightly loose, perhaps. If this doesn't work, you might have the issue, below.

    If you have waviness along just one side that gets worse with z-height, then you may have a resonance issue. This could be in either axis. The most common resonance is due to the offset between the nozzle and the x-axis. As the x-axis moves, there's a sympathetic vibration that sets up in the whole printer, causing the extruder to move in/out from the x-axis. The higher the Z-height, the larger this can become.

    This is much, much harder to get rid of. Prusa completely redesigned the extruder in the Mk3s to bring the nozzle closer to the X-axis, precisely to eliminate this problem. Without such drastic solutions, take a close look at your nozzle and hot end, and make sure they're firmly held in the extruder. Tighten anything that looks loose, but not too-tight as you don't want to break anything.

    Again, I'm just guessing on this, and there's other possible causes. It doesn't look too bad to me. Print a motor mount, and see how bad that side looks. Another trick is to print a filament with some glitter or glint in it. This effectively hides the Z-axis layer lines, and looks super as a bonus. Here's a brief pic of the slider printed with glitter. If you need recommendations for filaments with this, just ask (like Prusa Galaxy Black or Filament One Pro Glint Grey).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
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