The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Will be supported in the upcoming multi controller release and is very handy if you need to work on your rig

If anyone does raise their rig to work on it then PLEASE remember to physically prop it up with stacks of porno mags, bricks, timber blocks etc.
During initial installation I was working under my raised rig (doing cable management, I think) when a random signal disconnection caused the whole thing to drop. I've no idea how much my combined P1, SFX, racing seat and sim hardware weighs but if I'd not been able to quickly extricate myself I'd have been trapped and possibly crushed to death.

On the positive side it rapidly cured my constipation.

Stay safe, kids.
 
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If anyone does raise their rig to work on it then PLEASE remember to physically prop it up with stacks of porno mags, bricks, timber blocks etc.
During initial installation I was working under my raised rig (doing cable management, I think) when a random signal disconnection caused the whole thing to drop. I've no idea how much my combined P1, SFX, racing seat and sim hardware weighs but if I'd not been able to quickly extricate myself I'd have been trapped and possibly crushed to death.

On the positive side it rapidly cured my constipation.

Stay safe, kids.

You are definitely right @Mascot that why we have mentioned this in the disclaimer on the github page.




It have tested and the plugin can keep you rig up for hours in it's highest position,but always be safe and put a support under the rig which catches it in case the rig drops down for whatever reason.

This plugin is to raise your rig so you can put a support under it at it's highest position, not for lying under rig, trusting that nothing can happen with USB/Power supply/programm or even EMI.

So ALWAYS BE SAFE and with a couple of leftovers from my previous 80/20 rig, i created a couple of these



(that's a pretty big stag or p**no mags :roflmao:)
 
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The mother of all SFX-100 3D prints. I was away for a few days on a business trip, and didn't want to lose the time I could be printing parts. I don't recommend this. Takes a full roll of filament and about 60 hours to complete. Any printer screw-up, and its all ruined.

I've got my printer dialed with over a 1000 hours of error-free printing, and only now would I trust a job like this to it unattended.

 
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The mother of all SFX-100 3D prints. I was away for a few days on a business trip, and didn't want to lose the time I could be printing parts. I don't recommend this. Takes a full roll of filament and about 60 hours to complete. Any printer screw-up, and its all ruined.

I've got my printer dialed with over a 1000 hours of error-free printing, and only now would I trust a job like this to it unattended.


I like your style. Did the same with my Prusa i3 MK3. Was printing for a friend after successfully printing all my parts without a single failure, I thought 'what the heck' lets stuff that build plate! :thumbsup:
 
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I've got my printer dialed with over a 1000 hours of error-free printing, and only now would I trust a job like this to it unattended.
Never trust 3d printer :) They catch fire especially with PLA. Error-fee printing has little to do with it. Most of the time it's caused by bad temp sensor or part coming lose off the bed and getting stock at hot end.
 
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Does anyone have Sketchup files / drawings for the pieces of the build? Want to write some clear instructions that I'll share. Would be good to have some nice illustrations for the pieces if someone has already made them.
 
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The mother of all SFX-100 3D prints. I was away for a few days on a business trip, and didn't want to lose the time I could be printing parts. I don't recommend this. Takes a full roll of filament and about 60 hours to complete. Any printer screw-up, and its all ruined.

I've got my printer dialed with over a 1000 hours of error-free printing, and only now would I trust a job like this to it unattended.

I am just getting started on my build and I have never owned/researched a 3d printer before although I could have used one LONG ago for several projects. I think I have finally worked it down to the i3 and the CR10S. Don't mind spending the money on the PRUSA but all the reviews indicate the CR10S prints just as well and trouble free as the i3 but for ~1/2 the price on sale. For those with some actual knowledge, can you please advise if there is a clear advantage for the i3, as it relates to a project like this, over the CR10S? Open to other options as well, but want to keep it under 1k for sure.
 
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I think that they can all give good and bad results if not set up correctly.
I printed mine on a Creality Ender 2 (for £95) and had amazing results.
Not bad for a first ever effort of using a 3d printer.
 
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I am just getting started on my build and I have never owned/researched a 3d printer before although I could have used one LONG ago for several projects. I think I have finally worked it down to the i3 and the CR10S. Don't mind spending the money on the PRUSA but all the reviews indicate the CR10S prints just and well and trouble free as the i3 but for ~1/2 the price on sale. For those with some actual knowledge, can you please advise if there is a clear advantage for the i3, as it relates to a project like this, over the CR10S? Open to other options as well, but want to keep it under 1k for sure.

I did replace my tarentulla with A ender 3 pro and super pleased with it. All my print for the sfx 100 have gone verry good.
I dont have alot of exp with 3d printing so it worked Nice out of the box.
From my exp i can recomend it for a cheap 3d printet
 
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