The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

growe19 · May 16, 2019

Snajrog said:
The SFX-100 website has it all.

Sorry I can only see the list of parts from Germany. I'm finding the odd piece here and there in the UK and making up a list and pricing. But wondered if anyone had already done the same.

Snajrog · May 16, 2019

Black_rat · May 16, 2019

I am UK too, I bought from Germany, China and UK, mainly for reassurance rather than going out on a limb, its still quite an investment. I did a spreadsheet with links to where I purchased, its based on the main shopping list but with some UK links and links others have provided. Don't take mine as wholly accurate, double check, mistakes can creep in, but I have received all barr some bearings from China so far.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

RowanH · May 16, 2019

Going to add a link to this in the docs ^^^

jedrzej101 · May 17, 2019

leeroy605 said:
You sir, were completely right! Took the assembly out late last night, couldn't get the coupling off as I've misplaced the hex key for it but put the nozzle of my PTFE dry lube in the gap underneath it (which would be the top of the FK bearing), gave it a couple of squirts and the noise went away immediately. So relieved that was the solution. Went round and did all the others also after just in case. Thanks for your help! Life saver!

It's just happened to my front actuators recently. They start make the same noise like yours. The worst is when they back to lower position. I have to grease the seals tonight because the squick noise is very annoying.

Specialist68 · May 17, 2019

ThugUK said:
I have now gone expert, and also joined Discord.
@saxxon66 please note, my Discord name is SGTsimo
Looking forward to getting some profiles.
Looking forward to getting the connection box so I can at least get to use it first though.

The best way is getting some profiles and adjust them to your likings because everyone has different weight and length between actuators so each profile react different

Specialist68 · May 17, 2019

jedrzej101 said:
It's just happened to my front actuators recently. They start make the same noise like yours. The worst is when they back to lower position. I have to grease the seals tonight because the squick noise is very annoying.

Have you lined up the actuator?
losen the m8 upper bearingblock turn the balscrew with slider in upper position and tighten the m8 bolts
losen the m8 from the lower lineair bearingblock turn balscrew and slider to its lower position and tighten the m8
This way there is little to zero tension in the drivetrain
This to do when you building the actuators,

leeroy605 · May 17, 2019

jedrzej101 said:
It's just happened to my front actuators recently. They start make the same noise like yours. The worst is when they back to lower position. I have to grease the seals tonight because the squick noise is very annoying.

Give it a go, my noise went away instantly but has since come back so will be taking apart the actuator this weekend and giving it a proper greasing on both top and bottom to stop it for good hopefully.

Another actuator is making a slightly different noise on mine now also, think it may be tension in the drivetrain as mentioned above so will be trying that as well.

Can anyone recommend a better lube than Dry PTFE for the FK bearing seals or is that the best stuff for it? Thanks!

DCA5454 · May 17, 2019

First I would like to thank Saxxon66 and J.R. for great design and software. Ever since I built my OSW 2 years ago I have been waiting for someone to come up with simple but beautiful design that uses servo drives and motors like the OSW.

So on to my build first off I change the design a bit for a few reasons first my 3D printers motherboard decided it didn't what to run for hours on end so it left the party so then being a machinist I decided just to machine the parts which did save hours of 3d printing but I did lose some of the time back in redesign and programing. Next me being a cheap I mean frugal person I wanted to use only materials I had leftover from jobs so I found some 1-1/4 x 3-1/4 aluminum blocks which means I could not use the K50 extrusions so hence the redesign changes needed to machine and fit the parts into the 3030 extrusion instead. I also had some 2in Delrin bar stock( Fyi delrin is a hard low friction plastic used for precision parts ) kicking around for the slider and bumper stops. So here it is the Sfx 100 mostly metal actuators using 8020 3030 extrusion.

A few things that was not intentional but was a bonus most obvious it has a smaller footprint. I also had to use a round flanged linear bearing and had to invert it so it has a extra 1in+ of travel(do not know it if I can utilize that in the software?). Probably does not matter but being mostly metal and delrin tolerances are a little tighter. Also I had to downsize shaft so I Machined some heavy walled 1in pipe to 25mm. My rig is also made on the cheap from other materials I had laying around at work so it is a combination of
aluminum,stainless and titanium parts.Which makes it less bulking but maybe not as nice looking than the aluminum extrusion rigs, but it is allot lower to the ground but it might weigh a bit more.

So on to testing and game play! Just on a side note I tried to upgrade to expect mode thru donation and did
not realize there was a minimum expected and I understand the reason (was refunded with no explanation till I read it in this forum) could someone give me a hint what that modest donation is?

ThugUK · May 17, 2019

Love it, but I have an urge to stick my fingers in there like a 3 year old.

growe19 · May 17, 2019

Black_rat said:
I am UK too, I bought from Germany, China and UK, mainly for reassurance rather than going out on a limb, its still quite an investment. I did a spreadsheet with links to where I purchased, its based on the main shopping list but with some UK links and links others have provided. Don't take mine as wholly accurate, double check, mistakes can creep in, but I have received all barr some bearings from China so far.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Thanks for this spreadsheet, really helpful.

saxxon66 · May 17, 2019

@DCA5454 Here is your hint
https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-105#post-2903027

DCA5454 · May 17, 2019

ThugUK said:
Love it, but I have an urge to stick my fingers in there like a 3 year old.

Thanks. I did make inserts to cover opening just left them off during testing phase.

Moe Ballout · May 18, 2019

Usps shipment from kinetic has been delayed for a few days with no information. It has cleared customs and was supposed to be here wednesday, but nothing yet. Called usps and started a case. Still waiting on the bearings also. 3d printing has been in full effect since monday.

ThugUK · May 18, 2019

DCA5454 said:
Thanks. I did make inserts to cover opening just left them off during testing phase.View attachment 306223

I do like the open design so you can se the workings (not that I would in VR of course).
I would be tempted to get Perspex so its still open, but safe for little fingers.

Moe Ballout · May 18, 2019

Kinetic shipment came in everything is good. Just waiting on bearing now and just finishing up 3d printing to start everything going.

Moe Ballout · May 18, 2019

So took me about an hour and a half to get coils in the profiles. I would recommend using a 1/4 allen socket. I have some (i hate allen keys). With a long extension you can get some good leverage. After doing the first with the t-handle which took me the longest. After I used the socket method it was pretty easy. Use the long one you can insert it all the way in the coil and it stays perfectly straight. I did not even use lube or anything lol. And I do not have a table clamp either just held it between my legs.