The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Making progress here. Finally got ball screws last week and spent the weekend getting the inserts into the profile (the fact that Kinitic supply two types of inserts is deeply annoying). I also built the DIY version of @Pyronious awesome board which was fun. Next job is greasing the ball joints and assembling the actuators. I'm a little nervous to do the wiring on the servo's / controller's so waiting for my CTO to help me with that to help me avoid frying parts / myself.
 
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Likewise, still awaiting four bearings from China, SFX board, sliders to print, tomorrow hopefully fork connectors arrive and I will be wiring servos/motors and setting servos up.

20190514_160329.jpg
 
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Just a few tips from what I found when I built mine.

1. The ball screws came with bleed nipples, so I really didn't need to buy additional ones like I did (good job they were cheap).
2. Open the start of the threaded holes up in the prints, so make it easier to put the bolts in when assembling. You can do this by threading the bolts in a couple of turns and removing them prior to putting them together.
3. Use a little oil or grease on the threads to make them easier to screw in.
4. Don’t over tighten the bolts into the prints. Just remember they are plastic. You WILL hear creaking and a little crunching but don’t worry, this is normal.
5. Make sure you clean the inner part of the tubing out and don’t forget, like I did, and had to take one apart again.
6. It’s ok if the slider is a little light, but as long as it fits you should be ok. As long as it does move with a little force it’s ok.
7. When putting in the reducing bushes I found that reaming the hole out a little helped them ‘bite’ and screw in straighter.
8. If your feet are a little too loose use a bit of spray glue (cheap from B&M or similar stores) to secure them.
9. Use a bit of degreaser or alcohol to clean the grease off the ball screw end and motor shaft so the coupler and thread lock bites better.
 
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Finally got my extrusion, SFX100 boards (naked) and associated parts to solder them up..NTL also sent a new batch of ball screws with correct spec (42mm) nuts
Now all I'm waiting on is parts for my 3D printer to start printing parts.
Also ordered a 2nd 3D printer.. I'm a little addicted to the 3D printing world now

So well on my way to SFX100 land... I will purchase the motors closer to when I actually need them.. I currently don't have a rig to mount them to atm.. Waiting on trak racer to release their 80/20 rig
 
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You are absolute right, go and call an electrician if you are not comfortable/experienced with main power connections.
It's not a shame, it is smart. :thumbsup:

Maybe you already noticed, this project stays away from recommendation regarding main power connection. Your electrician is the one to ask.
I wanted to install a 220v plug in the house but I will be doing the wiring myself for the motors. I was referring to the ground issue that causes the motor whine.
 
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Do you print each file alone one by one 4 times? Or can you print lets say the slider 4 times in one go? Noob question lol

My almost-noob answer is technically you can print them at the same time by you are also x4 risk if something goes wrong. For small objects I use to print them in one go, larger ones I did one by one. Anyway let’s see what the more experienced have to say!
 
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My almost-noob answer is technically you can print them at the same time by you are also x4 risk if something goes wrong. For small objects I use to print them in one go, larger ones I did one by one. Anyway let’s see what the more experienced have to say!
I was just thinking like the bump stop i can print them. I mean its not big deal I just want to find that answer since I just got it yesterday lol
 
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I was just thinking like the bump stop i can print them. I mean its not big deal I just want to find that answer since I just got it yesterday lol

The bump stop and the Feet I printed as a 4X print as they are quite small, and didn't have any issues with that. The larger prints though I would definitely not recommend trying for 4 at a time. You could waste nearly a whole roll of PLA on one failed print. Mine was taking between 10-14 hours for 1x on some of the larger prints and the nozzle tracking between the 4 items for each layer adds additional time if you do 4x at once. So yeah...not recommended.
 
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The bump stop and the Feet I printed as a 4X print as they are quite small, and didn't have any issues with that. The larger prints though I would definitely not recommend trying for 4 at a time. You could waste nearly a whole roll of PLA on one failed print. Mine was taking between 10-14 hours for 1x on some of the larger prints and the nozzle tracking between the 4 items for each layer adds additional time if you do 4x at once. So yeah...not recommended.
Thank you, yes I meant the smaller items for sure not the big objects. Thank you
 
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These actuators on my videos are from PT-ACTUATOR factory in China. Really amazing quality I have to say...
http://www.pt-actuator.com
He can provide dimensions and clearances in detailed drawings in advance, just ask him.

I had to get a frame 80 servomotor to fit in the actuator I already had, but he could make custom ones with frame 90 as well.

Here is a 4DOF + TL + Surge platform example using these actuators...


Thanks
Thanos
Hello. Do they sell the mechanical parts alone? Just to avoid the construction by ourselves. The SFX-100 are great but some will pay more for 6 kits of the parts already made. Great work Thanos, amazing rig with T L and surge,
 
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