The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Tim mate, the current hardware sets a physical limit (don't know what the actual amount is but I imagine is not too much greater than the current travel today), with the software set specifically for that range of motion. If you tried to push past the limit, you'd end with either an over-torque alarm, or a broken bottom linear bearing mount.

Thanks Rowan, the question is mainly from me eyeing up the screw and wondering if I can damage the actuator by testing it when it is fully assembled by being careless (ie I have been testing it with my drill), will the slider just hit the bottom bearing and stop or is there extra leeway inside where the ball nut can come off the screw partially and spray bearings inside the actuator? I don't want to be that guy...

The other reason I was wondering is that if we can later extend the system with more actuators, whether there is a possibility to create an actuator for traction loss via the same method that could be longer like 200mm or if there is a hardware/software limitation that makes 100mm a natural upper limit?
 
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Any update ?

Imo its the sound your hearing. Just make sure you oil the Seal on both sides and the edges that the spinning part is touching. Mine was No Where near as bad as yours and was only one unit, but for sure ended up being this very unique rubber squeal. I went ahead and oiled all the seals to prevent this happening down the road.

@RowanH Maybe a little blip on the install page of the SFX site could be noted to Oil the Seal to ensure it wont be a problem people end up having to chase down the line.

You sir, were completely right! :thumbsup: Took the assembly out late last night, couldn't get the coupling off as I've misplaced the hex key for it but put the nozzle of my PTFE dry lube in the gap underneath it (which would be the top of the FK bearing), gave it a couple of squirts and the noise went away immediately. So relieved that was the solution. Went round and did all the others also after just in case. Thanks for your help! Life saver!
 
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Has anyone made any recent progress at all with reducing/isolating the coil whine? I'm all out of ideas and am finding myself running with no motion more often than not just to stop the whistling.
 
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Did you have a look at the thread Thanos has? He seems to think that if you are not grounded properly and your neutral and ground have large enough potential differences that you could get the problem.

Do you have a multimeter?
 
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I am about ready to start testing my system. I run triples and do not plan on VR at least for the near term. I have a couple of concerns with the position of the monitor stand (free standing) in relation to the front actuators. How much clearance is needed between the support legs and the actuators? I only have about 1" clearance side to side and about 3" clearance front to actuator. Second item is what distance between the screens and your eyes can you safely run with motion? My non motion rig was 23", but with the P1 I am looking at 28-30" and I am concerned that the wheel deck uprights could hit the monitor support arms. Any guidance would help.
 
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What i miss is some measurement with for example a mobile app which shows the hz before and after his findings .. its like talking about trilling and don´t know if he means the trilling what some drive crazy or some other Whining / Trilling
@Mascot ever tried the earplugz ?
 
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Some update photos...
IMG_3334.jpg IMG_3335.jpg IMG_3336.jpg IMG_3337.jpg IMG_3333.jpg
 
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Have you also checked if in the SimFeedback software you have disabled the tactile feedback using sound card? If you are not using SimFeedback’s tactile feedback option, you don’t want it sending signals to your sound card.
Thanks mate !! You are absolutely right and now I am free from any buzzing !
 
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Is the whistle that bad? Has anybody in the US tried this method and testing? I am planning on calling an electrician. If I can get some ideas to what potentially I should ask for to make this run the best way possible. I have no knowledge in electricity

You are absolute right, go and call an electrician if you are not comfortable/experienced with main power connections.
It's not a shame, it is smart. :thumbsup:

Maybe you already noticed, this project stays away from recommendation regarding main power connection. Your electrician is the one to ask.
 
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How much pla filament will I need for all the sfx parts? Prusa printer came in today been putting it together. Also motors came in and board!

I would buy 3 reels of filament.
I printed all my internal parts using black and have plenty left over for other things like the control box etc.
I printed all external parts in red and used about 85-90% of a roll for every 2 actuators.
I didn’t mess around with the thickness etc, I just pressed print.
 
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Add another one to the SFX owners club ;). Been very busy this past week! Final parts came before last weekend so spend Saturday building the actuators. All went well, did what was suggested in here and made one through to completion then built the other 3 doing each step in turn.

Installed the software and tested them, all looked good so mounted them to my rig and took them for a spin. I had the biggest smile on my face, these things are amazing and so so so much fun :D, donated pretty much immediately!

However after smacking both my elbows whilst using them I realised I had to do something with my rig (a sim lab TR1). Tapping the ends and moving them back wouldn't do enough so this week I basically took it apart and changed the way the wheel deck is mounted so I could push the seat forward and the pedal deck forward too. The rig is now a hybrid of a GT1 and TR1 but they're mounted perfectly now :thumbsup:. I'll get some pictures of it in here once I've tidied up the cables as its a mess right now...

Amazed at how well this thing works, got everything plugged into one power strip and one powered USB hub with a USB 3.0 extension cable running to my computer in the next room. Everything works great with no disconnects which I am so grateful for, just switch on one power plug and one USB cable to the computer and it's ready to go.

Just wanted to say thank you so much to everyone in this community here, I would not have been able to do it without your amazing help :inlove: I had no idea how to wire up servos to power, use wagos, tap inserts or what the actuator internal parts even did before this project but through peoples help in here and researching online I've learned some new skills. Haven't had this much fun racing in years.

Quick couple of questions. One of my actuators has developed a squeak after a couple of dirt rally sessions, sounds like birds chirping. Any ideas how to solve this before I take it apart and root around? Video below:


Secondly, when I tested the emergency stop only the rear actuators went down and I had to use the jog function to get them all level again. I'm guessing this is not normal behaviour? I am using the SFX board from Pyronious with the RJ45 connector. Cut it open and put two wires (orange/white & brown) to the red side of the button...

Thanks you wonderful lot!
This noise comes from the inner side transmission , maybe , it's from the screw nuts holding fixtures making abrasive with the aluminum profiles bars....
 
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I have now gone expert, and also joined Discord.
@saxxon66 please note, my Discord name is SGTsimo
Looking forward to getting some profiles.
Looking forward to getting the connection box so I can at least get to use it first though.
 
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