The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[sn4il]

Quick couple of questions. One of my actuators has developed a squeak after a couple of dirt rally sessions, sounds like birds chirping. Any ideas how to solve this before I take it apart and root around? Video below:

If the problem persists you might want to check if your ball screw wasn't bent during shipping.

 

[Moxley6969]

So I've done as suggested and unfortunately the squeak is still there. Whilst the top was off took the chance to take the assembly out and lube the slider again to take that out of the equation.

It seems like the noise is coming from directly below the coupling on the actuator side, took a video of it below (hope the link works, let me know if not and I'll put it on YouTube):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rWCP1jfqLboBiPe98

Any ideas what this could be and how to solve it? Thank you.

DIsregard if its been determined, but i know EXACTLY what this is, Its the rubber Oring/Seal on the FK bearing....its Dry and touching, Oil that sucker and the noise will magically dissappear.

 

[leeroy605]

Took the assembly out and it's the same, still squeaking so definitely not tension in the drive train. Video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3NbAZWNALxx4V6F87

Its definitely something between the coupling and the FK bearing, unfortunately the hex key I used to tighten the coupling up has gone missing so will need to find it tomorrow or go out and get another so I can take it off and have a look.

If the problem persists you might want to check if your ball screw wasn't bent during shipping.

I really hope it isn't this. If it was quiet during the first couple of hours but then suddenly starting making this noise would that go against it being a bent ball screw? How would I check for bent screw without the device in the video?

DIsregard if its been determined, but i know EXACTLY what this is, Its the rubber Oring/Seal on the FK bearing....its Dry and touching, Oil that sucker and the noise will magically dissappear.

Hope this is the solution as that I can deal with! Will report back tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help guys. Hope to get this sorted soon, not the end of the world as I use headphones but loved how quiet it was during the first few goes.

 

[metalnwood]

I would ignore that bent screw thing, 0.2mm wont do anything in our application and he didnt have a very good measurement process either. With a floating end the screw could whip out more than that at 3000 rpm.

But having said that, if the issue has something to do with a similar situation you should be able to feel it by taking off the motor mount and turning the coupler by hand. If it is smooth good. If it is hard on part of the rotation and easy on the other part it could be a bearing issue. In that case loosen the screw holding the fixed bearing and see if it is better. if it is tighten up and try again.

ps, one of the thing leading me to think there is an issue here is your video.. There is a jerky motion to how it is going down which suggests the weight of the rig, which should be ample, still has a hard time rotating the screw at some part of its rotation.

 

[Bleak December]

Silly question, but what size grease nipple do I need?
Which colour loctite?
Any specific grease or just what I have in my gun?

Never thought I would say this in public but my nipples are 6mm diameter as for which type, any lithium grease will work.

 

[Moe Ballout]

Whats a good cheap case to put the motor controllers in? Any recommendations?

 

[Tim Palmgren]

@Moe Ballout I used a cheap wall mount rack cabinet, the type you would use for small office servers or network gear and such..

 

[Dennis Karlsson]

Whats a good cheap case to put the motor controllers in? Any recommendations?

I've bought this. I haven't received it yet though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12U-Slam...s-Select-your-Depth-Rack-to-Rack/222819610415

I was thinking of buying a acryl or polycarbonate board and put in the front instead of the solid one.

 

[jedrzej101]

I waited around 2 days but I got refund because my donation was too little...

I will try to donate more soon

I got refound first time ,so I transferred bigger amount but never received email with code to unblock full version of simfeedback.

 

[z4hei]

@z4hei

1.

- Use ferrite cores around the USB cables
- Use different USB controllers for each device that has issues, a different USB port is not always a different USB controller
- Use high quality USB cables
- Use a quality powered USB hub to connected the arduino
- Use a Net filter for the power supply of the servos or connect them to a power outlet from different group
- Seperate the USB cables from the powercables of the servos

2.

- check your wiring, use a continuity tester ( the one that beeps)

Faulty wiring is 90% of all problems, check, double check and check again (from own experience )

AL.06 is servos shutting down due to torque overload protection in your case probably cause by either the slider hitting the bearing due a software / connection glitch or because the from actuators fell down the entire weight was too much for the rear acuators

Good luck problem hunting

Update: I have ordered all necessary hardware suggested but some arrived earlier and actually solved my problem!! Here is what I have done: 1) added several ferrite cores to all the USB and power cables, 2) switched the usb ports for HE pedals and the servos. 3) Organise the cable better so that to minimise crossing of them. 4) Keep the SimCUBE away from the PC and servos. DONE!

But, the monitor is still buzzing. When the other hardware like the high quality cables arrive, I will also change them all to minimise the possible interference.

Thanks all.

 

[HugoB]

Update: I have ordered all necessary hardware suggested but some arrived earlier and actually solved my problem!! Here is what I have done: 1) added several ferrite cores to all the USB and power cables, 2) switched the usb ports for HE pedals and the servos. 3) Organise the cable better so that to minimise crossing of them. 4) Keep the SimCUBE away from the PC and servos. DONE!

But, the monitor is still buzzing. When the other hardware like the high quality cables arrive, I will also change them all to minimise the possible interference.

Thanks all.

Have you also checked if in the SimFeedback software you have disabled the tactile feedback using sound card? If you are not using SimFeedback’s tactile feedback option, you don’t want it sending signals to your sound card.

 

[sberns]

Whats a good cheap case to put the motor controllers in? Any recommendations?

I used this, compact, cheap and absolutely perfect fit:
https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/besta-...k-brown-selsviken-high-gloss-black-s19046772/

 

[ThugUK]

Well, got it all set up today and tested the actuators and they go in/out as they should.
Looking forward to getting it running when the wirings PCB turns up.
Also need to tidy the wiring up too.

 

[Black_rat]

@ThugUK looking very smart

 

[wajdi]

Well, got it all set up today and tested the actuators and they go in/out as they should.
Looking forward to getting it running when the wirings PCB turns up.
Also need to tidy the wiring up too.

 

[ThugUK]

View attachment 305435

Yes, I copied
It’s a compliment.

 

[wajdi]

Yes, I copied
It’s a compliment.

You are welcome my friend

 

[sberns]

Trying to experiment with Simfeedback. Anyone have a profile that they are willing to share that includes an wheel lock actuator effect (rumble etc)?

 

[Moxley6969]

Thanks for all the help guys. Hope to get this sorted soon, not the end of the world as I use headphones but loved how quiet it was during the first few goes.

Any update ?

Imo its the sound your hearing. Just make sure you oil the Seal on both sides and the edges that the spinning part is touching. Mine was No Where near as bad as yours and was only one unit, but for sure ended up being this very unique rubber squeal. I went ahead and oiled all the seals to prevent this happening down the road.

@RowanH Maybe a little blip on the install page of the SFX site could be noted to Oil the Seal to ensure it wont be a problem people end up having to chase down the line.

 

[Tim Palmgren]

Any update ?

Imo its the sound your hearing. Just make sure you oil the Seal on both sides and the edges that the spinning part is touching. Mine was No Where near as bad as yours and was only one unit, but for sure ended up being this very unique rubber squeal. I went ahead and oiled all the seals to prevent this happening down the road.

@RowanH Maybe a little blip on the install page of the SFX site could be noted to Oil the Seal to ensure it wont be a problem people end up having to chase down the line.

What seals? are we talking the fixed bearing housing? I don't remember seeing any rubber other than the 'O' Ring? I literally just finished closing up all 4 actuators so I don't really want to have to pull them apart again unless I have to!