The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Michal Burisin · Oct 18, 2018

MADShootStuff said:
Well, I think the only thing holding me back now is the electrical stuff. Need to take a look at my breaker to make sure I've got room for a new circuit and see if I need a permit or anything...
I read through the thread over on the iRacing forums and no one there has come up with a solution using standard US 120v outlets.
As soon as I figure that out I'm draining my fun money account!

That's good to hear the mechanical part isn't problem, hopefully you manage to solve the electical issues.

HugoB · Oct 18, 2018

Michal Burisin said:
I just ordered Prusa MK3 I'll need it for other stuff at the moment, but it will come handy for this project as well soon , unfortunately lead time 3 weeks, I guess I have some time to read on topic though .

On another topic, I have some troubles understanding everything correctly in German. Github pages are english which is great, but most of the supporting content (videos etc.) is in German and I'm not sure if I understand everything correctly, even when using google translator.

I hope for some feedback from non german native speakers if its possible to go through build without any major problems due to language barrier.

(offtopic)

You’ll have a good time with the Prusa. That removable, heated PEI sheet is fantastic, it works wonders with any material. Get some isopropyl to clean it between prints. And a plastic scraper to get those really sticky parts off:

Make sure to watch this video to check for the most common construction errors affecting print quality:

Also, they recommend printing from SD card only, since the USB connection sometimes becomes a bottleneck while printing, the data flow cannot keep up and small print errors occur when using USB.

Another tip, if you ever need to print steep overhangs or objects with sharp corners, you’ll find that PLA tends to curl up at those areas when using the stock 0.4mm nozzle: try using a 0.25mm nozzle or even better an airbrush nozzle:

https://hackaday.com/2018/10/01/high-detail-3d-printing-with-an-airbrush-nozzle/

If you want to print large object with a lot of rigidity and good layer adhesion, it works best and fastest with a 0.6mm nozzle. And a tip from @HoiHman , use PETG for the SFX100 parts.

Also, ditch the supplied Prusa silver PLA, get some quality stuff quickly, you’ll find everything just works with good filament. I can recommend Extrudr NX-2 if you’re in Europe, it has a nice matte finish and prints easily at any temperature above 195C. If you’re in the states, get Atomic filament, it’s the best.

Do some ‘cold pulls’ if you suspect your nozzle isn’t totally clean, or filament curls while extruding.

Most good PLA filament only needs heated bed for first layer, then you can leave it off.

First layer calibration needs to be done every time when switching nozzles, get it right, it’s the base for your object.

Thats some things I’ve learned the last month, reading days and days of forums, that can cause some headache if you don’t know what’s happening.

Other than that, it’s a whole new world, you’ll find yourself engrossed in endless possibilities, it sure has the potential to become a great new hobby.

(/offtopic)

(sorry guys)

Michal Burisin · Oct 18, 2018

hugo bokhorst said:
(offtopic)

You’ll have a good time with the Prusa. That removable, heated PEI sheet is fantastic, it works wonders with any material. Get some isopropyl to clean it between prints. And a plastic scraper to get those really sticky parts off:

Make sure to watch this video to check for the most common construction errors affecting print quality:

Also, they recommend printing from SD card only, since the USB connection sometimes becomes a bottleneck while printing, the data flow cannot keep up and small print errors occur when using USB.

Another tip, if you ever need to print steep overhangs or objects with sharp corners, you’ll find that PLA tends to curl up at those areas when using the stock 0.4mm nozzle: try using a 0.25mm nozzle or even better an airbrush nozzle:

https://hackaday.com/2018/10/01/high-detail-3d-printing-with-an-airbrush-nozzle/

If you want to print large object with a lot of rigidity and good layer adhesion, it works best and fastest with a 0.6mm nozzle. And a tip from @HoiHman , use PETG for the SFX100 parts.

Also, ditch the supplied Prusa silver PLA, get some quality stuff quickly, you’ll find everything just works with good filament. I can recommend Extrudr NX-2 if you’re in Europe, it has a nice matte finish and prints easily at any temperature above 195C. If you’re in the states, get Atomic filament, it’s the best.

Do some ‘cold pulls’ if you suspect your nozzle isn’t totally clean, or filament curls while extruding.

Most good PLA filament only needs heated bed for first layer, then you can leave it off.

First layer calibration needs to be done every time when switching nozzles, get it right, it’s the base for your object.

Thats some things I’ve learned the last month, reading days and days of forums, that can cause some headache if you don’t know what’s happening.

Other than that, it’s a whole new world, you’ll find yourself engrossed in endless possibilities, it sure has the potential to become a great new hobby.

(/offtopic)

(sorry guys)

Many thanks for great advice and resources! This will give me some head start getting into this topic

Stevie_007 · Oct 18, 2018

MADShootStuff said:
Speaking of draining that account... I'll need a new cockpit(current one isn't sturdy enough for a DD wheel, let alone motion)

Anyone built an 80\20 cockpit that's set up for racing and flight? Looking for ideas on quickly swapping between the two...

I just got one from http://www.jcl-simracing.com/en/ cant recommend then high enough - rock solid v2 i have

MADShootStuff · Oct 19, 2018

sdubbin said:
I just got one from http://www.jcl-simracing.com/en/ cant recommend then high enough - rock solid v2 i have

Thanks for the recommendation!

MADShootStuff · Oct 19, 2018

Michal Burisin said:
That's good to hear the mechanical part isn't problem, hopefully you manage to solve the electical issues.

Unfortunately, I don't have any open slots in my breaker boxes... will have to test this weekend to see if any of them are unused. I haven't made any modifications to the electrical system since buying this place so I don't know how accurate the labels are. Sad, I was hoping the new circuit would be an afternoon project.

sebna · Oct 19, 2018

MADShootStuff said:
Thanks for the recommendation!

If you are looking for complete designs ready to be built i would certainly check Sim-Lab EU.

cheers

HugoB · Oct 19, 2018

sebna said:
If you are looking for complete designs ready to be built i would certainly check Sim-Lab EU.

cheers

Agreed, just got the P1 and it’s rock solid. I especially appreciate that it’s footprint is not wider than necessary.

sebna · Oct 19, 2018

hugo bokhorst said:
Agreed, just got the P1 and it’s rock solid. I especially appreciate that it’s footprint is not wider than necessary.

Love my P1

HoiHman · Oct 19, 2018

hugo bokhorst said:
Agreed, just got the P1 and it’s rock solid. I especially appreciate that it’s footprint is not wider than necessary.

P1 is great and they are only a 20 min drive from me, but i went for the custom DIY route being really true to this project

"Rock Solid" on a static rig is a whole different ball game that on a moving rig. So just remember to check if all bolts are still fast enough after a couple of hours of motion.

That's what i will be doing tonight. The rig is now in "service mode"

Mascot · Oct 19, 2018

HoiHman said:
P1 is great and they are only a 20 min drive from me, but i went for the custom DIY route being really true to this project

"Rock Solid" on a static rig is a whole different ball game that on a moving rig. So just remember to check if all bolts are still fast enough after a couple of hours of motion.

That's what i will be doing tonight. The rig is now in "service mode"

That's an impressive workshop Henk. Is it at home?

dethis · Oct 19, 2018

Hi there. Since i own a simetik k2 and i want build also one to adapt to my rig.
But i have a doubt that is the weight of my simetik k2 is quite heavier in comparison with those in aluminum extrusion. Should i try to buy AC servo motor with more power, or is the 750w enough ?
Thks.

GEEDOGG · Oct 19, 2018

dethis said:
Hi there. Since i own a simetik k2 and i want build also one to adapt to my rig.
But i have a doubt that is the weight of my simetik k2 is quite heavier in comparison with those in aluminum extrusion. Should i try to buy AC servo motor with more power, or is the 750w enough ?
Thks.

From what I've seen I believe these motors will be more than enough. Here's a video watch what he does at the 40 second mark.

cprelot · Oct 19, 2018

today I received the Ac servos, and I was wondering if a STOP button will turn off completely the sim or just the arduino signal? I haven't see on the wiki page if we can have a on/off switch with the Servo controller? or just pull off the cable of the outlet overnight? how do you plan to do it?
thanks

HoiHman · Oct 19, 2018

Mascot said:
That's an impressive workshop Henk. Is it at home?

I actually own a car workshop and live above my business

dethis said:
Hi there. Since i own a simetik k2 and i want build also one to adapt to my rig.
But i have a doubt that is the weight of my simetik k2 is quite heavier in comparison with those in aluminum extrusion. Should i try to buy AC servo motor with more power, or is the 750w enough ?
Thks.

My rig is so heavy, that i can not lift it at the front, it's not problem

cprelot said:
today I received the Ac servos, and I was wondering if a STOP button will turn off completely the sim or just the arduino signal? I haven't see on the wiki page if we can have a on/off switch with the Servo controller? or just pull off the cable of the outlet overnight? how do you plan to do it?
thanks

The stop button just cuts the power from the drivers to the motors. I have wired all 4 servos over one 10 amp emergency stop using 2,5mm copperwires.

I use that switch to power off the rig at night.

The plan is to finish the rig tomorrow. My SFX-100 motion rig will be mobile. It will be placed in an other room during the day, like my previous rig.

Set-up time will be around 3-5 min max. Guys who are building a SFX-100 rig right now with all the cable management required understand how impressive that is.

If all goes well monday i will finally have the very much desired replacement board for my GS-4 and then it's time to have some fun.

RaceNut · Oct 19, 2018

HoiHman said:
I actually own a car workshop and live above my business

My rig is so heavy, that i can not lift it at the front, it's not problem

The stop button just cuts the power from the drivers to the motors. I have wired all 4 servos over one 10 amp emergency stop using 2,5mm copperwires.

I use that switch to power off the rig at night.

The plan is to finish the rig tomorrow. My SFX-100 motion rig will be mobile. It will be placed in an other room during the day, like my previous rig.

Set-up time will be around 3-5 min max. Guys who are building a SFX-100 rig right now with all the cable management required understand how impressive that is.

If all goes well monday i will finally have the very much desired replacement board for my GS-4 and then it's time to have some fun.

Can't wait to read about the result Henk!

Mascot · Oct 19, 2018

HoiHman said:
I actually own a car workshop and live above my business

That's cheating!

HoiHman · Oct 19, 2018

RaceNut said:
Can't wait to read about the result Henk!

Yeah, i'm really exited by it to. I ordered the replacement board on the first of october. My account said my order was "processed", which i though meant "shipped"

So this week i called yost labs 2 times and asked them to ship it asap to me and i would be willing to pay extra for express shipping.

Today i finally got a track and trace.

About motion and tactile. I decided to remove all 7 mini LFE's from my rig. I will only leave the LFE at the bottom of the GS-4 and put a BK-Advance at the back of the seat.

The effort and wiring of all the extra tactile is just too much and i just don't fancy tuning a simvibe chassis and 4 extensions next to the motion. It's just too much work.

Not sure if this works, but in theory you can add a lot of sensivity and only small movements to for example to an extra added heave effect. This means this effect will only pick up very small bumps.

Something like this.

I'm also very much looking forward to trying out rfactor 2. The guys in the dicord channnel are claiming it THE best motion from all sims.

Stevie_007 · Oct 19, 2018

Is the discord channel a closed group, I’m slowly building my rig as we speak , would be good to share settings and profiles

MADShootStuff · Oct 20, 2018

To those who have their stuff all up and running, is there an easy way for you to check the servos maximum output (rpm\power draw)under actual driving conditions?
(preferably something on the extremes like rally landings or during a crash)
I'm fairly certain I'm not going to be able to add a new circuit for 240v so I'll likely be stuck using a step up converter on a 20 or 30A circuit. I'm concerned because the max draw on paper would stress the circuit past the 80% recommended even on a 30A, so i'd like to know if those conditions ever really come up...