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  • Alien speed in online races

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    Votes: 116 65.9%

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The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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metalnwood

Premium
I use Simplify3D 4.01
Humm ok. can someone confirm that the slider need to move freely inside without backlash please?
then I will need to scale it down like 98-97% I am about 0.2mm bigger

Moving as freely as possible will always be best but it's most important role is to stop the ballnut turning so you dont want it being able to rotate.. I would sand the one you have a bit and see.

I wouldnt care if it didnt fall by itself and needed a push.. remember the actuator could be pushing 50kg with just one so another kg of resistance wont matter.
 
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I use Simplify3D 4.01
Humm ok. can someone confirm that the slider need to move freely inside without backlash please?
then I will need to scale it down like 98-97% I am about 0.2mm bigger

You might want to have a look at this tutorial:

https://www.google.at/amp/s/mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/amp/

It explains how to calibrate your extruder, to extrude the exact amount of filament that your software tells it to. After that, all your prints should come out dimensionally correct.
 
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Oh, and you’ll really need to get a digital caliper, if you didn’t already have one ;) Because filament spools have varying diameters, ranging from 1.65mm to 1.78mm in my case (that’s 8% difference!) you need to measure precisely your current spool’s filament diameter and then enter it in the software under ‘filament’. Now your software knows how much mm filament will produce how thick of a line when printing.

It all seams really complicated at first, but you’ll soon get a routine and it will be as easy as making coffee.

b.t.w. my Prusa i3 MK3 had perfect extrusion out of the box, so for new buyers, I can recommend it wholeheartedly. Also it prints so precisely, that I could print with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.07mm layer height to make this castle at only 60% scale without any failures:

345-DED71-087-C-4-FFB-B096-E483262-A9319.jpg
 
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HoiHman

Premium
I can confirm that my Prusa MK3 prints have a perfect fit to. I use PTEG instead of PLA, since it's more impact resistantant and durable
 
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Tip for printing TPE, Print on a small piece of 1/4-1/2" MDF, TPE doesn't like to stick to much else.
TPU on the other hand, go for GlueStick on Pei or Blue painters tape, DO NOT print on bare clean pei.
 
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Hahaha yeah I know!, I print a tpu part one time on a Pei sheet...oh dear I couldn’t take it off, I had to scrap the whole sheet never again
Blue tape or on the glass with hair spray is fine
 
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Lol, I did the exact same, i printed 2 parts, roughly 2"x4" the first was a pain to get off but nothing crazy, Should have learned my lesson, but what did i do instead but, DO the exact same thing again and had to pull so hard on the part, a small 20x20 chunk popped right off. lesson learned for sure.

Oh the good ol days of being a rookie Printer. Lol :roflmao::laugh:
 
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just pointing out a cheap-ish printer with some good reviews.. I did buy one but as it's my first 3D printer it's all i've experienced.. But fairly straightforward to get up and running!

but yeah i'd recommend it for the price!
 
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just pointing out a cheap-ish printer with some good reviews.. I did buy one but as it's my first 3D printer it's all i've experienced.. But fairly straightforward to get up and running!

but yeah i'd recommend it for the price!
Nice, checked out a few reviews and it looks solid. The price is right around what it would cost to have the parts printed through a service too...
 
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I just ordered Prusa MK3 :) I'll need it for other stuff at the moment, but it will come handy for this project as well soon :), unfortunately lead time 3 weeks, I guess I have some time to read on topic though :).

On another topic, I have some troubles understanding everything correctly in German. Github pages are english which is great, but most of the supporting content (videos etc.) is in German and I'm not sure if I understand everything correctly, even when using google translator.

I hope for some feedback from non german native speakers if its possible to go through build without any major problems due to language barrier.
 
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Well, I think the only thing holding me back now is the electrical stuff. Need to take a look at my breaker to make sure I've got room for a new circuit and see if I need a permit or anything...
I read through the thread over on the iRacing forums and no one there has come up with a solution using standard US 120v outlets.
As soon as I figure that out I'm draining my fun money account!
 
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Speaking of draining that account... I'll need a new cockpit(current one isn't sturdy enough for a DD wheel, let alone motion)

Anyone built an 80\20 cockpit that's set up for racing and flight? Looking for ideas on quickly swapping between the two...
 
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HoiHman

Premium
I just ordered Prusa MK3 :) I'll need it for other stuff at the moment, but it will come handy for this project as well soon :), unfortunately lead time 3 weeks, I guess I have some time to read on topic though :).

On another topic, I have some troubles understanding everything correctly in German. Github pages are english which is great, but most of the supporting content (videos etc.) is in German and I'm not sure if I understand everything correctly, even when using google translator.

I hope for some feedback from non german native speakers if its possible to go through build without any major problems due to language barrier.


Great choice on the 3d printer, probably the best you can make:thumbsup:

If you ever need any help, just let me know.
 
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Great choice on the 3d printer, probably the best you can make:thumbsup:

If you ever need any help, just let me know.

Thanks, really appreciate it!

I recently abandoned the idea of high end rig with 2080ti and I'll rather shift the funds towards this project, so I will hop on the board sooner rather than later :) I will start reading and putting it together. I'm from Czech Republic so I can send everything ordered in Germany to one Czech package company which has German warehouse (so cheap shipping and no issues with delivery to another country), they can aggregate all the incoming packages into one big one, then drive it across the border by truck to Czech warehouse and send it via Czech Post, pretty great service and it's pretty cheap :)

I will put it together over the weekend and probably make the order to get it moving :)
 
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