The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[C64]

Finding them isn't a problem. The same motors can be made in a 110 volt version for 33 dollars more. The problem I see is it will double the amp draw going to 110. Somebody correct me if im wrong about that its been a while. So 2 motors in 110 versions would need their own 15 amp circuit. I am waiting to hear back from the company I talked to and make sure that is the case when changing the voltage to 110. Finding a 110volt solution for the motors for people in the US and Canada would make this much easier.

Apparently, running with 110v will cut the servo max rpm from 3000rpm to 1500rpm .. according to some knowledgeable chaps in iracing forum.

 

[metalnwood]

Yes, the speed is directly related to the voltage so 110v means that you will have 1500rpm if you go with the same servos.

The amperage is dependent on the load and while I haven't run it through a calculator it doesnt seem like these are being pushed in this particular application.

 

[d69morpwr]

Apparently, running with 110v will cut the servo max rpm from 3000rpm to 1500rpm .. according to some knowledgeable chaps in iracing forum.

I figured there would be more to it and had thought about that but wasn't sure.

 

[d69morpwr]

Yes, the speed is directly related to the voltage so 110v means that you will have 1500rpm if you go with the same servos.

The amperage is dependent on the load and while I haven't run it through a calculator it doesnt seem like these are being pushed in this particular application.

So I need to find out if the motor will have the same speed at 110 as it did at 220 or if they are just making the motor work on 110. But either way I think the issue will still be amp draw at 110volts. Youd still be limited to a normal 15 or 20 amp circuit in houses here and at 110volts 2 motors will probably take one circuit which isn't ideal.

 

[anton_Chez]

All this power stuff goes way over my head! Do we need more than just plugging into an Aussie 240V power point for the control box? I'm already running the V3 from the wall socket, are these things going to require an electrical upgrade?

 

[C64]

All this power stuff goes way over my head! Do we need more than just plugging into an Aussie 240V power point for the control box? I'm already running the V3 from the wall socket, are these things going to require an electrical upgrade?

You won't have a problem with 240v supply - the motor specified in the shopping list will work very nicely on that.

 

[MADShootStuff]

You won't have a problem with 240v supply - the motor specified in the shopping list will work very nicely on that.

Hrmmm... might be a bit over my head too! I was forgetting about each actuator needing separate power...

When I thought of having a circuit installed I pictured one of these: https://mrelectric.com/240-volt-outlets
(The only things I've ever plugged into 240v outlets are ovens and dryers)

Will I need multiple outlets like this?

 

[C64]

Hrmmm... might be a bit over my head too! I was forgetting about each actuator needing separate power...

When I thought of having a circuit installed I pictured one of these: https://mrelectric.com/240-volt-outlets
(The only things I've ever plugged into 240v outlets are ovens and dryers)

Will I need multiple outlets like this?

They are 750watt servos - so if they are all on max power ( highly unlikely ) you will be using 3000watt ( 3kw ) ... the same as a 3 bar electric fire, probably a lot less than your cooker doing the sunday roast. 3000w divided by 240v gives 12.5amps... so a 13amp plug should still tolerate the max current draw. I would be surprised if 240v outlet has any issues - but check with an electrician if you are in any doubt.

 

[Stevie_007]

Does anyone have a tried a different supplier for the Ballscrew &nut? aliexpress sell them direct from China but not sure of the quality, letmathe don’t seem to have a contact address and I’m based in the uk so can’t create account with them

 

[Moxley6969]

Does anyone have a tried a different supplier for the Ballscrew &nut? aliexpress sell them direct from China but not sure of the quality, letmathe don’t seem to have a contact address and I’m based in the uk so can’t create account with them

China/Ali parts are perfectly fine to use, All the 6dof guys on Xsimulator use them without issues.

If you got $$ for Name Brand Fancy 200$ a pop units. The more power to ya. lol

 

[C64]

Does anyone have a tried a different supplier for the Ballscrew &nut? aliexpress sell them direct from China but not sure of the quality, letmathe don’t seem to have a contact address and I’m based in the uk so can’t create account with them

I bought ballscrews from ebay.co.uk - £13.74 each - arrived within a week, look good.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122648579365

 

[MADShootStuff]

They are 750watt servos - so if they are all on max power ( highly unlikely ) you will be using 3000watt ( 3kw ) ... the same as a 3 bar electric fire, probably a lot less than your cooker doing the sunday roast. 3000w divided by 240v gives 12.5amps... so a 13amp plug should still tolerate the max current draw. I would be surprised if 240v outlet has any issues - but check with an electrician if you are in any doubt.

Roger that, I get the calculation forthe power draw but I'm trying to picture powering each servo controller(4 boxes total) with one outlet. Think I just need to do some research on my own before calling an electrician!

 

[Stevie_007]

I bought ballscrews from ebay.co.uk - £13.74 each - arrived within a week, look good.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122648579365

Cheers, This shopping list is making me forget what I’ve ordered. I just brought 4 from your link then realised I had brought 4 off aliexpress 3 weeks ago.

 

[HoiHman]

They are 750watt servos - so if they are all on max power ( highly unlikely ) you will be using 3000watt ( 3kw ) ... the same as a 3 bar electric fire, probably a lot less than your cooker doing the sunday roast. 3000w divided by 240v gives 12.5amps... so a 13amp plug should still tolerate the max current draw. I would be surprised if 240v outlet has any issues - but check with an electrician if you are in any doubt.

I have all 4 servos, my AccuForce, a powered USB hub (and hopefully soon my GS-4) running from one power out let from the wall. I do use 2,5mm thick coper wires and have everyting wired over an emergency stop switch which i also use to power everything off at night.

Here come the crazy part; the SImfeedback arduino, the AccuForce, my dashboard, HE-shifter, Fanatec Handbrake, Center console and the buttonbox from my wheel all run from 2 powered usb hubs combine into one and only one cable to my PC.

Problem free.................... so far..

 

[HoiHman]

Playlist of all the current tutorial videos (5)
https://www.youtube.com/user/saxxon66

I'm fortunate to understand german, but if you don't, use the english subtitles from youtube

 

[MADShootStuff]

I have all 4 servos, my AccuForce, a powered USB hub (and hopefully soon my GS-4) running from one power out let from the wall. I do use 2,5mm thick coper wires and have everyting wired over an emergency stop switch which i also use to power everything off at night.

Here come the crazy part; the SImfeedback arduino, the AccuForce, my dashboard, HE-shifter, Fanatec Handbrake, Center console and the buttonbox from my wheel all run from 2 powered usb hubs combine into one and only one cable to my PC.

Problem free.................... so far..

You sir, are a lucky man! I no sooner than look at a USB hub and devices start acting up.

 

[cprelot]

Received the First part today Let's get started! yeah.
Before going crazy with printing all part , I first finish printing a slider (petg) and it come up beautiful and clean, but fitting very very tight inside the profile...take me a lot of try to finally get one inPerhaps should I sand the plastic a little first?
or wonder if cold warm the profile in the oven at slow temperature will extend the metal and slide easily anyway this thing should't move inside right?

 

[GEEDOGG]

Hey cprelot what slicer software are you using I'm using Cura and I printed one slider myself and I'm going to wait until I get my profile to test it. And if it's too tight I read on another forum that I may need to change some setting in Cura from 100% to 90 or 91% and his fit I guess I'll find out once I receive my profile. Good luck. I'm not sure how much friction it should be. I think it should slide in freely.

 

[cprelot]

Hey cprelot what slicer software are you using I'm using Cura and I printed one slider myself and I'm going to wait until I get my profile to test it. And if it's too tight I read on another forum that I may need to change some setting in Cura from 100% to 90 or 91% and his fit I guess I'll find out once I receive my profile. Good luck. I'm not sure how much friction it should be. I think it should slide in freely.

I use Simplify3D 4.01
Humm ok. can someone confirm that the slider need to move freely inside without backlash please?
then I will need to scale it down like 98-97% I am about 0.2mm bigger

 

[GEEDOGG]

I'm not sure but if I understood correctly I don't think you would want to scale it down I think you have to reduce the the flow of the filament. When I find the post I'll link it so you can read it yourself.