AC Tatuus FA01 @ Zandvoort - Tue 12Sep17

[Neilski]

Yeah, so I guess one symptom is that you need to relearn some braking points? Makes it more interesting for sure, and also partly invalidates offline practice which could be seen as a good thing

 

[PietD]

yes please!

 

[RasmusP]

In !

in

yes please!

Adding you now! Full grid again, thank you guys!!

Remember: at 10+ reserves we will run a second server so keep signing up people!

 

[RasmusP]

Setup attached. Did about an hour of testing every possible setting that made sense in my mind.
Ride Height slightly raised due to bumpy tarmac and kerbs.
Aero pretty much maxed out. Front max, Rear adjusted to it. Soft ARBs and default Toe to maintain stability while bumping around.

Traction Control... I think I'll use it. It doesn't do much against the START of slides but you can catch it instead of spinning without a chance. A few turns here want to kill you with such an aero-car. TC helps!

Have fun on the weekend, I'll update my setup on Tuesday if I get another hour of practice done

 

[Kek700]

I think the "hards" are for the race, it makes the car quite skitish, i think you will need TC for these tyres.
It does not take much to lose the car.

 

[RasmusP]

I think the "hards" are for the race, it makes the car quite skitish, i think you will need TC for these tyres.
It does not take much to lose the car.

Did you tried my aero settings? I had a great talk with @BhZ about wing angle efficiency, the dev app "wings".
The efficiency gets higher (drag compared to downforce) until around "12" for the rear wing. The front wing pretty much doesn't increase the drag at all.

So I use very high aero on this track. Might be not the fastest, but it feels safe as long as you don't slam the throttle on a bump

 

[RainhamIron]

as long as you don't slam the throttle on a bump

...and there are plenty of those!

 

[BhZ]

Aero only help in faster turns. The u-turns at Zandvoort are too slow. Only thing you can do is too increase the rear toe. It will increase the tyre degradation, but the hard tyres last so much that that is not a problem. On the other hand, using too much wings means you'll have to increase the ride height and at low speed you might have less aero because the diffuser and the front wing will be too high.

If you lose the tatuus so easily, there could be a problem with how you set your FFB. The tatuus is hard to spin. Even in second gear the car doesn't spin unless you turn too much, which either means you accelerate too early or you don't use your steering wheel correctly. The default setup is also understeery by definition. 6-6 as wings and 30-0 as antiroll bar, power differential at 10%, coast at 90%, relatively high rear toe, neutral toe at the front (damn i know this car too much...i remember its setup without looking at it). Everything in that setup is done to have an understeery car. I assume kunos played safe with this car.

 

[RasmusP]

In theory I fully agree with you! I just tested around, got faster and the most important: I didn't spin anymore
I have the feeling that the ride height also makes the suspension softer. Makes no sense because you have other settings for the suspension stiffness and travel, but the car feels smoother with more ride height

For you sir, the Tatuus is easy, but I do still have a learn a lot about "not turning too much" and more important to learn to modulate my throttle when there are changes in the grip level.
The left hand hairpin in the first sector for example:
You can slam the throttle when drafting after the apex to the outside kerbs. But then you go over a little bump and if you don't lift the throttle to a lower level: you spin out. If you lift too much you spin too because of the weight shift.

TC helps a lot in that corner and a higher rear wing does too. "low corner" is relative, I think you have around 110 kph at that moment.

Good discussion going on here, much to learn and to understand!

 

[Kek700]

Did not realise you had a setup available , basically just increased rear and front wing in balance starting
With softs and increasing the wing settings through to hards.
I think i also knocked the rear arb to minimum for the hards. Leaving front alone. ( i think it was at 17)
Rear diff at 10% and 40%, never tried up to 90% i think i was concerned it would effect turn in.
I am not used to all these combinations, in the end the car seemed quite manageable with hards at
these settings.

 

[BhZ]

Did not realise you had a setup available , basically just increased rear and front wing in balance starting
With softs and increasing the wing settings through to hards.
I think i also knocked the rear arb to minimum for the hards. Leaving front alone. ( i think it was at 17)
Rear diff at 10% and 40%, never tried up to 90% i think i was concerned it would effect turn in.
I am not used to all these combinations, in the end the car seemed quite manageable with hards at
these settings.

You should never change the setup without having tested the default one and practiced with it for 20 mins. 90% coast was default and it makes the car more stable. Also the front arb at 17 makes the car more oversteery and can compromise your turn exit because the chance of spinning are higher.

 

[RasmusP]

Did not realise you had a setup available , basically just increased rear and front wing in balance starting
With softs and increasing the wing settings through to hards.
I think i also knocked the rear arb to minimum for the hards. Leaving front alone. ( i think it was at 17)
Rear diff at 10% and 40%, never tried up to 90% i think i was concerned it would effect turn in.
I am not used to all these combinations, in the end the car seemed quite manageable with hards at
these settings.

The Tatuus doesn't really have problems at turn in, I can recommend to stick with the default 10% accel. diff and 90% coast diff. Everything else will only make it unstable.

Rear ARB should be 0 as 1 or 2 makes the rear end less grippy. The softer, the less you can on corner exit!

Front ARB default is at 30. A bit too stiff and therefore you get massive understeer. If you go below 20 though, you can "overturn" the Tatuus into a drift when you turn the wheel too much.

For fast laps at only 17°C air temp, mediums are the way to go for a few hotlaps. On softs my left rear got too hot and I spun without control. Hards are a bit "un-grippy" but balanced and good for the race!

I would like you to test my setup and report back if you like it. I alwas try to upload setups that are safe and nice to drive. Probably not the fastest, but the last races were showing that consistency is the key with this car

 

[RainhamIron]

If you lose the tatuus so easily, there could be a problem with how you set your FFB.

What sort of FFB settings typically would cause these issues? I tried turning mine down a bit at Zandvoort as I was having to do gorilla grip on the wheel to prevent the bumps from pulling it out of my hands and losing the car.

 

[F1Warrior33]

17 Celsius, but track 23 how?

 

[BhZ]

What sort of FFB settings typically would cause these issues? I tried turning mine down a bit at Zandvoort as I was having to do gorilla grip on the wheel to prevent the bumps from pulling it out of my hands and losing the car.

Well, if the force is too low you will not feel the car losing traction in time to correct it. Too strong will make you slower to react and you might not be fast enough to correct the slide. Then you have to be sure that the settings in the ffb are good enough to feel everything. Testing is the only way to find the sweet spot.

 

[RasmusP]

17 Celsius, but track 23 how?

You have 2 parameters:
Air temp
Road differential temp

And then 2 "randomizer" options for both.
Example:
Air temp = 20
Road differential = 5
Air random = 2
Road random = 2

Air will have a range of 18 to 22
Road will have a range of (18-22) + 5 +/- 2.
So you end up with a road temperature of 21 to 29 degrees
The sunnier the weather, the hotter the track will be compared to air. I try to keep it a bit realistic so only 5 more on Zandvoort in September. At Barcelona in August we had almost 50° road temp!

 

[RainhamIron]

Well, if the force is too low you will not feel the car losing traction in time to correct it. Too strong will make you slower to react and you might not be fast enough to correct the slide. Then you have to be sure that the settings in the ffb are good enough to feel everything. Testing is the only way to find the sweet spot.

Cool, pretty much common sense then really.

Certainly no problem with being able to feel everything, if anything it's too much with these bumps hence the sometimes violent nature of the wheel. Hanging on for dear life detracts a bit from concentrating on the more subtle stuff going on underneath.
But yeah overall I've found a pretty decent sweet spot, I might just need to tweak it a bit more to find a nice balance for this Zandvoort rally stage

 

[Kek700]

Thanks for that, will put diff to 90%, and move the front arb to 20 from the 17 at the moment.

It is just the time it takes for all the combination, but luckily i am more intrested in
Stability, no point in chasing an unobtainable qualifying time.

I know it is probably staring me in the face , but were can i find your setup.

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks for that, will put diff to 90%, and move the front arb to 20 from the 17 at the moment.

It is just the time it takes for all the combination, but luckily i am more intrested in
Stability, no point in chasing an unobtainable qualifying time.

I know it is probably staring me in the face , but were can i find your setup.

First post of this thread, file attached
Put it into: my documents /assetto corsa /setups / tatuus / ks_zandvoort

Import: acceleration diff needs to be at 10%, only coast diff at 90!

 

[Kek700]