Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Well I was also obssesing about not being able to get full range of frequency (calculated from real world Engine frequency) as well, but in the end I resigned and just went with what feels best :)

I run BK Concerts + TST239, which has frequency range from 5 - 72 Hz where I get the strongest feeling.

TST239 picks up strength around 50 Hz and goes strong up to 72 Hz where its strength drops off rapidly (74 Hz feels like 1/2 or 2/3 the strength of 72 Hz). The strength of TST239 is not very linear, even in this short range so I have some crazy profile where I try to get it behave little bit more linear :)

View attachment 281806

Maybe @Mr Latte could give us his insight on this topic.

I have this frequency automapped in SimVibe to engine effect and it maps lowest RPM to highest RPM for that particular car to this 5 - 76 Hz (72 Hz is strongest, I adjust max range so I get strongest feeling from TST through pedals at optimal shift point, this vary from car to car). This simple mapping certainly does not offer variablility between different cars as much as I would like but the variability is still there - it's based on idle RPM and the curve how the car accelerates (increases RPM through time), how the RPM drops on downshifts and how engine autobrakes etc. Also you get lot of engine variability via sound of the engine, it's connected in your brain with the vibrations so different cars feel quite different as the vibrations develop with the progressing sound of increasing RPM.

SimVibe has more advanced engine effects in chassis mode for like 2 years and they still didn't ported it to extension mode, so it's unusable for me :( also some bugs I reported haven't been fixed, after urging I was told someone will get back to me but they never did so I resigned on the matter :(. Anyway I'm stuck with the basic effect in chassis mode and it works reasonably well for now - I must add that engine effect is very important to me, when I say reasonably well I mean I'm very happy with it, it's really a blast :), but it could be so much better with better sofware.

@Mr Latte is using mixing tactile and audio source for engine, but for my usage it's too advanced, relies on good sounds of the Sim you're using, requires lot of tuning, other sounds from game are mixed into tactile etc., so I didn't went along this road beside some quick testing. I might revisit this later, but for me it's important to jump from car to car / sim to sim without too much hassle.

Also there might be some new possibilities in that new software @Mr Latte was talking about, but I haven't tried it yet.

Yes TST do seem to have a peak output over BK units in that mid-high bass range. Many times this has been highlighted on these forums and combining both BK/TST can indeed bring advantages as can splitting the workload on a single unit.

Do keep in mind though that when we place Hz values into tactile software that what the unit produces is more than just the center values given. Indeed bandwidth energy will drop with higher Hz (this is natural) but if we can extract their detail then they can add possibly some additional richness or wider range to the sensation they output.

More Hz
We really want to be using upto or beyond 100Hz with the amps even if the detail after say 80-Hz is quite weak, its meant to be. We are better having some additional Hz above what the tactile used offers to ensure at least we give the tactile unit what it supposedly can handle.

Sometimes it doesn't feel like much but I think it's upto the users preference. Their own installation and the contributing factors involved with different rig builds seats etc.

For engine, we generally focus on the bass sensations and its also maybe harder to detect this upper bass if we have the lower bass so strong or extended. Just as like with headphones/speakers if we cut the treble and boost the bass. I dont know how you are using crossover for dual units and that is something to play around with as you can have the TST unit operate only with the mid-high range and then increase its wattage so that it perhaps manages a better balanced output to the low-mid bass the BK is outputting. This could improve what you feel from the TST and the higher frequencies detail. Really its trial and error finding for you the ideal balance and output that each unit within DR usage combine well.

DSP For Effects?
While I messed around with it. I wouldn't use DSP to tweak EQ for just a telemetry-based effect, even say "Engine" on its own EM in that its the only effect role the unit may have. One reason is the DSP is the final stage and it should be used to operate to suit the connected hardware not so much be in place to alter the source. The source can vary but the connected units character or performance abilities do not.

Tactile Software - Telemetry Factors
Engine output will differ even with the same settings in Simvibe as we have to take into account what the software also does in the background and how it uses the telemetry data that different cars have.

Basic Engine Layer
The simple reason is if an engine range is set to operate say from 10-110Hz (example only)
From idle to max rpm value it will utilise these frequencies. This before we even take into account how good the tactile unit used is or where its own peak Hz output may be.

If you look at this as a general RPM based layer for each cars working range.

Car "A"
This could be idle at under 900 rpm and its max at 5000 rpm.
It has 4100 of working rpm after idle

Car "B"
This could be idle at 3000 rpm and its max be 160000 rpm
It has 13000 of working rpm after idle

Both cars use 10-100Hz operation

The problem with this is we find we reach the best of the tactile unit's performance well before the car reaches its max rpm. So a good portion of the rpm is with the lesser feeling Hz.

We need a general rpm layer like this but we also need to build on it and combine it with additional sensations too. This is one reason I believe Simvibe introduced the "Harmonics" mode. Also "QuadStream" but with the quad mode while it allowed 4 layers to be nicely kept together it did not enable the additional features/settings possible with single layers and these are crucial to do certain things.

Harmonics mode enables the user to shift how the Hz work in relation to the idle and max rpm ranges. Also including added harmonics as this then broadens the tactile sensations felt for a fuller experience.

Whats Missing
We require a tactile software which brings method that lets us combine multiple layers to work within specific ranges or that the software allows us to increase the output within a controlled way for the rpm range how we want. We also should desire individual settings for perhaps these scenarios:
Idle / Low-High rpm / Peak rpm / Max rpm


Personal Views From Testing
Ignoring audio tactile mixing here are some of my own views. Factors for good engine sensations actually need more than just rpm based effects

I think that "Longitudinal Acceleration" is important for low-mid speeds, then engine rpm layers with Hz that are set to suit specific cars, followed by a heightened energy approaching max rpm and while all that is going on to then also have a speed based sensation that increases in its bass to represent engine strain.

Currently in Shakeit we can easily mess around with settings and get excellent rpm and engine strain feelings. Although I have in some cases experienced a repeated thump type feeling as both sensations are being used.

Odd Sensation / Speed & RPM Combined
Its as if the two effects are out of sync or making the tactile unit struggle to output both simultaneously. This may in part be piston related or down to the varation in Hz being used and attempting to have better-matched harmonics could help eliminate or reduce the issue. It may even be best to keep speed based effects separated from the same unit as the rpm based effects/unit. Let each do their own thing but the sensations combine in the seat/pedals sections/platforms. I halted spending a lot of time into this as its best to see what options coming with the major update bring.

Really though we need to see what updates come for Shakeit and then create a thread for discussing settings or sharing profiles. It will be at a point of being cable of bringing very, very good tactile immersion. Yet the same problems like Simvibe arise in that people will not know how to configure or build good effects sensations, what settings to use? Thats where people like myself or others that like to tinker with such spending hours messing around can come together.

Future Is Bright
I am expecting more control and better possibilities than Simvibe currently has and as explained to the developer the more options we have or ways to utilise the telemetry then the better effect sensations we can create. He has already incorporated some ideas I shared but also those of others and that's one of the best things with Shakeit. The developer seems happy with taking onboard suggestions and is capable of making them possible. His efforts need to be more applauded in my view.

SSW, in contrast just does not give us enough control options for what we are seeking in advanced tactile so a large part of some of the benefits .wav effects can bring is being limited. While I still see some good effects potential with it if/when Shakeit brings new updates and features (I know of) and at some point new effects like ABS braking and Lateral G. It is then going to be interesting to see if we even need SSW or Simvibe.

Shakeit may as a single package bring things each has been limiting till now or didn't offer and that's whats exciting me about it. The focus for it is in being community-based and not a product for profit.

For me I will continue to have the functionality for multiple sources/options to be mixed or used if desired but this is primarily to discover for myself (as a hobbyist) how each may compare or what from each can bring to help achieve the best immersion.

Detailed Overview:
I plan a thread for Shakeit to discuss the different settings and effects it has with others in trying to help those that decide to give it a go. Its easy for the community to share profiles and people could be sharing profiles that are then known to work well on the different hardware. This is one thing Simvibe really failed with doing or even creating their own profiles for customers. They did nothing to take into account factors like different peoples installations or propose how to tune a rig or use settings that suited the level of hardware they were using.

How good would it be, just like SFX100 or Anton did with V3 that some have gone out of their way in learning/testing/calibrating good working profiles so then others can immediately begin to enjoy them.

@mikefreeman best to do a thread for your own build with images to show and discuss the installation for your rig.
 
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Well I was also obssesing about not being able to get full range of frequency (calculated from real world Engine frequency) as well, but in the end I resigned and just went with what feels best :)

I run BK Concerts + TST239, which has frequency range from 5 - 72 Hz where I get the strongest feeling.

TST239 picks up strength around 50 Hz and goes strong up to 72 Hz where its strength drops off rapidly (74 Hz feels like 1/2 or 2/3 the strength of 72 Hz). The strength of TST239 is not very linear, even in this short range so I have some crazy profile where I try to get it behave little bit more linear :)

View attachment 281806

Maybe @Mr Latte could give us his insight on this topic.

I have this frequency automapped in SimVibe to engine effect and it maps lowest RPM to highest RPM for that particular car to this 5 - 76 Hz (72 Hz is strongest, I adjust max range so I get strongest feeling from TST through pedals at optimal shift point, this vary from car to car). This simple mapping certainly does not offer variablility between different cars as much as I would like but the variability is still there - it's based on idle RPM and the curve how the car accelerates (increases RPM through time), how the RPM drops on downshifts and how engine autobrakes etc. Also you get lot of engine variability via sound of the engine, it's connected in your brain with the vibrations so different cars feel quite different as the vibrations develop with the progressing sound of increasing RPM.

SimVibe has more advanced engine effects in chassis mode for like 2 years and they still didn't ported it to extension mode, so it's unusable for me :( also some bugs I reported haven't been fixed, after urging I was told someone will get back to me but they never did so I resigned on the matter :(. Anyway I'm stuck with the basic effect in chassis mode and it works reasonably well for now - I must add that engine effect is very important to me, when I say reasonably well I mean I'm very happy with it, it's really a blast :), but it could be so much better with better sofware.

@Mr Latte is using mixing tactile and audio source for engine, but for my usage it's too advanced, relies on good sounds of the Sim you're using, requires lot of tuning, other sounds from game are mixed into tactile etc., so I didn't went along this road beside some quick testing. I might revisit this later, but for me it's important to jump from car to car / sim to sim without too much hassle.

Also there might be some new possibilities in that new software @Mr Latte was talking about, but I haven't tried it yet.

Thanks Michal for the good explanation! I see it is a bit more complex than I anticipated..

I have already got my NuForce uDAC3 here, the Behringer is on it's way, but it will take a while before I get my Concerts.

What is the best way to mount the Concerts to my frame? I understand direct mounting to 80/20 is not ideal? Will this mount be better maybe?

300-9454_HR_0.jpg

300-9454_ALT_0.jpg

Or will something like this work better?

fischer-amps-bass-shaker-mount-universalhalterung-buttkicker_1_PAH0017440-000.jpg

fischer_amps_drum_in_ear_amp_2_buttkicker_lfe.jpg


I could mount that bracket underneath the pedals to the 80/20 frame (using the screw holes, not the clamp)
Or take this mount, remove the rubber and drill some holes in it?
BK-CMAK_4__49435.1499546410.jpg


I don't have any equipment to make my own plate or such, so I hope to find something off the shelf..


Also, thank you both MrLatte and Michal for your thorough explanation how to use RPM and Hz, I will have to find a solution once I've got everything running, I'll have to try all the different software out as well. Shakeit sounds interesting!
 
Just bought four, I'm stoked! Can I run these from the Behringer NX3000D's two channels? Like in serial or parallel? I didn't expect to get four, but at this price I couldn't resist ;)

Also, what would you say is the best off the shelf mounting solution for 80/20 profile?
 
On second thought, those mounting solutions are really expensive, maybe I could just get an aluminum square plate, have it cut into long parts, drill four holes for the BK Concert and a couple of holes to mount it to the profile. I understand that a leverage gives more effect? What length should I be aiming for? Also, what thickness of the aluminum plate is best?
 
Just bought four, I'm stoked! Can I run these from the Behringer NX3000D's two channels? Like in serial or parallel? I didn't expect to get four, but at this price I couldn't resist ;)

Also, what would you say is the best off the shelf mounting solution for 80/20 profile?

Great deal! :)

Mounting really depends. @Magiashkii could probably give you some more insight, see thread here.

For engine, the best place is directly under your butt.

p9160040-jpg.269890


It's good to leave there space for TST if you plan for dual role:

p9160036-jpg.269888


If you plan using plates, I would support them with profiles. I have pedal plate 8 mm thick, it doesnt protrude much to the side, but it still bent and gave little bit of resonance :) I had to weld profiles under it to be resonance free.

p9160031-jpg.269886


So the profiles like I use, or @Magiashkii is good idea I would say. I would try to make pedal and seat section possible to isolate from rig so it's one solid structure that you then bolt to the rig and not place tactile units to the main frame of the rig.

Then I would experiment how much response will you get and if it will be less than you would like, I would try some isolation (probably very stiff in order not to lose detail from SFX, but at least allow for little movement for tactile to take advantage of).

I had plates made for big BK units with hole in it. It was custom made and cost like 10 EUR for one.

Really cheap in Czech Republic www.ehlinik.cz/ :) Maybe they could arrange for shipping to Austria if you won't find any alternative there. I use EN AW 5754 aluminium material which is stronger than standard one.

However if you use profiles, you don't need the plate, it's mainly for good looks :)

wp_20181101_21_41_34_pro-jpg.276485


For pedal plate BK in front of pedals works for me ok. TST would be probably best under pedals, if you won't go for inverted installation like I did :)
 
On second thought, those mounting solutions are really expensive, maybe I could just get an aluminum square plate, have it cut into long parts, drill four holes for the BK Concert and a couple of holes to mount it to the profile. I understand that a leverage gives more effect? What length should I be aiming for? Also, what thickness of the aluminum plate is best?

Yes they are not cheap to purchase, they are however about 5mm thick and made of steel.
Very solid. I opted for these just based on, if BK use them then we know they will work well with the tactile.

My seat section is on hold till after Christmas. Its too early really to try and show it or make head/tale of it. Below is one half (left side) of the specialist tubing I am using under the seat.

Dual BK LFE plates are used and you can see the bottom tier (Concert Plate) of the central section for engine/etc tactile units. The concert plate is bolted to the central steel tubing section of frame to sit directly below the seat. It also will have a tubing section that goes right up into the spine/back of the seat to deliver the engine sensations.

The plan is to test having a 2nd (Concert Plate) with some clearance above the tubing, with isolators in between the top/bottom plates used. The reason for this is my intention is for the top plate to make contact with underneath the seats rubber cushioning/springs. So when I sit in the seat,it will compress the isolators between the two teirs. I also have soft spongy cushioning material to wrap as a layer on the top plate to help ensure the seat is still comfortable.

In the way the tubing is constructed for the tactiles path. The method I am using also allows central units energy go to the outer sides but as the path is limited it reduces/minimises any stereo crosstalk between the left/right BK units on each side.






BK Plates are bolted directly to the steel/chrome tubing. Several points of contact are used for specific control of its determined paths.

The planned approach is that the tactile will connect directly with the seat (using L/R steel box section), This tubing is formed in a layout that determines how/where the vibes travel. Several body regions (Under knees / shoulders / Spine / Side / Buttocks) will be utilised to ensure stereo effects are maximised and increased delivery of the energy and detail is obtained.

Isolation being used will be excessive but by the time the energy reaches my isolators, it will already have passed into the seat and my body regions. My isolations main goal is to reduce leakage that will be going into the rest of the cockpit build and mainly my floor. I need to reduce the noise of vibrations to the floor is controlled/limited. Yet the isolation in my case may offer some rebound but I dont think it will be a major factor to the tactile I feel.

Here is a image comparing an early test layout for my original "Dual Role" installation and the new
"Triple Role" configuration. You can see in this better the central section with one set of rubber isolators which (when enough are stacked) will give clearance and a dampening/cushioning for the top plate that will be at the seats buttocks region.

 
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Thanks Michal and Mr Latte for your valuable information!

I found that under my seat (Sparco Pro 2000 LF II) there are four holes right into the seat. I'm using the side brackets so these holes are unused. I will attach two aluminum bars to those holes leading to the back, then connect these bars together in the rear of the seat with a 40x40 profile and attach the Buttkicker to this profile with an aluminum plate, probably this one (10mm):

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Aluminiumbl...atte-Alu-Blende/182410094953?var=484988761305

It should look like this:

IMG-7692.jpg


IMG-7691.jpg


Hope this gives a good feeling, since it's connected directly to the seat and the Buttkicker has some leverage...
 
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I first went with aluminum box sections, but then decided on steel for the box sections. These will form the contact point between my seat (seat-rail mounting points) and the tubing shown above. I also wanted it much wider than a typical seat-rail to increase the dispersion and contact area being used. The box section also maintains contact right to the very edge of the wall of my seat. While my own seat is not one that requires race/seat side supports. So I went with this wider box section to purposely try to benefit/enhance the stereo tactile effects delivery.

I think my box sections are 120mm x 500mm wide and approx 60mm tall with a 3.6mm inner wall.
Wanted them to be really meaty to sustain/hold the energy which I think they will over the two thickness alu box section options that I previously bought.

One approach I am trying to reduce vibrations from the excessive tactile the seat has is that any vibrations going down or into the isolators can only go through 4 bolts (each side) supported with weight dispersion alu washers and neoprene washers (Red Circles). This then has a secondary tier of tubing the length of the seat (Green Line) which is what connects to the isolators beneath (Blue Line).





So this plan is to maximise the contact area above for the seat and the tactile bolted to the chrome/steel tubing but to offer the most minimal contact points below. With this, perhaps my own approach is different in that I may still feel some amount of sway/movement with the isolators but I am not relying on the isolators to generate some or that much mechanical leverage. The BK plates used will bring the mechanical leverage prior to the energy even reaching the isolators.
 
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Thanks Michal and Mr Latte for your valuable information!

I found that under my seat (Sparco Pro 2000 LF II) there are four holes right into the seat. I'm using the side brackets so these holes are unused. I will attach two aluminum bars to those holes leading to the back, then connect these bars together in the rear of the seat with a 40x40 profile and attach the Buttkicker to this profile with an aluminum plate, probably this one (10mm):

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Aluminiumbl...atte-Alu-Blende/182410094953?var=484988761305

It should look like this:

IMG-7692.jpg


IMG-7691.jpg


Hope this gives a good feeling, since it's connected directly to the seat and the Buttkicker has some leverage...

Just a quick comment, I had it attached like this in the beginning:

p2270032-jpg.238234


Having it mounted directly to the seat from bottom is much better, but too many variables changed - I went to BK Concert from Advance and also from bucket seat to aluminium Kirkey seat, so I'm not sure how much changing attachment affected the better outcome.

As a variant I would also try to attach it under bucket seat from below between the rails, but I think the best felt tactile might be direct mount to the seat as you probably want to limit isolation, so closer you get to the body the better.

But your lever idea looks good and might work even better, who knows :) Every rig & mounting is very individual, we can give you some general ideas, but I think you'll have to go through some trial & error to see what works best.

Anyway for tactile Kirkey seat was the best investment I had done (beside the possibility of building G-Seat) so if you would have some spare money in the future, I would definitely recommend it as worthy upgrade :)
 
I would say that you "want" to experiment and try more than one option. Its the only way to determine what works best for you. Things I have decided to go with were based on prior tests and now trying to combine understanding gained from previous tests or builds I had done in the past.

Different seats can also play a large part of what can be felt. My own is a high-end leather/recliner based model. I need that as my rig is also my main pc/entertainment area. I can sit for hours with the comfort it brings but of course for many their race rig is just for the purpose of enjoying their sim racing.

My tactile will also be used to enjoy other games or consoles (thats why it maintains a 5.1 config) but music or even the odd movie too.
 
I experimented with levers with my Mini LFE's in chassismode on my old rig.

The "lever idea" turned out pretty good and worked as intented, it increased the vibrations in my case.
 
Yep I use the buttkicker mounts from Simlab @HugoB and they work pretty good depending how you connect them to the 80 20. I had tried an option similar to Michael's above, but you want them mounted from the bottom as opposed to the rear mount. You get more energy transfer that way. They are probably easier to fit the way in the picture but the results were definitely better. As Henk says the plates act as a lever and that helps transfer the energy a little better I have found. If they are directly on the 80 20 they sort of don't have anywhere to 'bounce', so to speak. I mean these guys are at the top of their game when it comes to tactile around here so if you want an amazing experience, try what they suggest.

I also used to use an aluminum plate, similar to a checker plate sheet that I use for my pedal deck now. This was before I had motion and that was directly under my seat attached to the seat and then the Aura shakers. at the time, were mounted to the plate. It worked well. This didn't work once I added the motion, so I then did similar to what your drawing shows. I took the plate off from the bottom of the seat and poked it out the rear, so that there was room for the shakers to be able to move with the V3.

You will definitely need to try yourself how each way feels but for me I wasn't interested in going crazy with the mounting options and optimizing every bit of tactile I could, especially from my modest little BK Mini units. I just wanted what I had before I built the Simlab chassis, which was a little feedback from the parts of the car that make it feel alive. It makes a world of difference and you can make it as amazing or as modest as you care for.

I am sure I have some pics of how mine are mounted in my build log here. It might give you an idea to start with before delving deeper and investing a whole lot. Keep in mind my units are fairly smallish and larger units might not suit what I've done.
 
Just bought four, I'm stoked! Can I run these from the Behringer NX3000D's two channels? Like in serial or parallel? I didn't expect to get four, but at this price I couldn't resist ;)

Also, what would you say is the best off the shelf mounting solution for 80/20 profile?


I recommend you use part of the money saved to go towards an additional amp.
Great Price Here

Please, when you get these units and perhaps in the New Year consider doing a thread in adding and mixing these with the SFX 100. I am interested to learn how/what effects we can combine well. One factor I am also curious with is how does the motion feel if you place some isolators under the seat? It may add some additional tilt/lean but is it a concern or issue compared to a seat attached only to a solid 8020 section with the SFX motion?

I can easily work on some Shakeit settings to help you along but of course its always good to experiment for oneself.

If you bought 4 Concerts why are you doing a diagram for one at the back of the seat?
Dont know if steel Vs aluminum plate will make much difference. All I do know is many speaker stands use steel and Buttkicker use steel for their plates. The BK LFE sofa plates also use square "carriage bolts" to ensure the units cannot move at all from the plate.

Here is the thought behind my own seat frame build but I spent a lot of time testing tactile going to different body regions and this is what I came up with to direct/steer the energy to where I wanted it. Having the energy go to more body zones increases the immersion and improves a lot the Stereo effects like Bumps / Lateral G-Force.

With these concentrated body regions, combined with the large steel/box section also making good contact underneath the seat (much wider/longer than typical seat runners). It shows excellent potential that lots of the tactile energy will go into the user from multiple paths. Yet limited potential that energy will be lost to passing below the seat, via the restricted 4 bolts/risers that support this whole section prior to the actual isolation beneath.

When properly tested if successful I will implement similar for the pedals and it also using BK plates.

 
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