T300RS FFB Settings for Dirt Rally 2.0

Noobiix007

100RPM
Original poster
Jan 16, 2016
102
244
23
After hours of experimenting today, I finally found some settings that suits me and feels pretty good, not too heavy, not too soft, so I thought I might share it with you guys !

I'm using a T300RS with the GTE rim.

First step is to go to your SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\DiRT Rally 2.0\input\devices folder, find the device_defines file, open it with notepad, then search for the T300RS line, and replace the ffb force value, whatever it says, by "5.0", then save.



Thrustmaster profiler settings (in French but just copy the numbers, lol)




INGAME settings (Also in French, just copy the numbers)




Hopefully it'll be good enough for you guys ! Let's go rallying !
 
  • Like
Reactions: MapoUK

MapoUK

100RPM
Jan 28, 2013
208
145
48
The define_devices alteration works for the fanatec V2.5 wheel as well, ended up settling for 7 and 1.5, posted this in another thread!
 

Case_

6000RPM
Premium
Jun 30, 2011
6,551
6,823
44
If Dirt Rally 2 is anything like the first game, then setting damper to 0 in your control panel is a really good way to remove parts of the FFB that are supposed to be there. Just saying.
 

jp chemisky

10RPM
Oct 26, 2015
18
8
43
Thank you very much for the tip; It works also on my Logitech G25 :
<device id="{C299046D-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="lg_g25" priority="100" type="wheel" ffb_force="10.0" ffb_friction="1.0"/>

And in-game, 10 for "couple d'alignement automatique", 10 for collision, 20 for "braquage léger" (I found out that this last one was part of the problem, and hiding the good tyres effect I was expecting), and I desactivated the "centre de force de pilotage
So it remains mainly only wheel raw effects, tyres effect (that I increased to 150) and suspension effect.

Tested on asphalt for the moment, really better that stock one. Feel more natural. I have to try on gravel and maybe adjust a little bit more the balance between forces...
 

RoccoTTS

100RPM
Dec 4, 2016
107
125
What about tx? is it the same line?
No, it's this line :
<device id="{B669044F-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="tm_tx" priority="100" type="wheel" />
I changed it to :
<device id="{B669044F-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="tm_tx" priority="100" type="wheel" ffb_force="2.0" ffb_friction="1.5" />
I used 2.0 instead of 5.0/8.0 other people use and i use SAT at 50 in game instead of SAT at 12, but you can experiment yourself until you are happy.
 

TeSL9

Pessimistic (rarely flying) Finn :)
Jun 4, 2009
710
278
39
Thanks.
I find that to be little strong still. But much better :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: RoccoTTS
Nov 9, 2009
263
165
I heard about this 0.9 standard setting. I heard it is not only on t300 but on pretty much all wheels. Will try on g27 tonight.
 
May 12, 2018
3
0
38
Does your wheel pull to the left with this setup? Specifically over gravel, I noticed this issue so I reverted back to normal settings.
 

Ole Marius Myrvold

JWB 96-13
Staff
Premium
Sep 29, 2009
9,421
5,361
I heard about this 0.9 standard setting. I heard it is not only on t300 but on pretty much all wheels. Will try on g27 tonight.
I tried it, didn't really fix much for me. The steering wheel got heavier, and the effects that were minimal before, is more noticeable, however, I still have no feeling of ruts or anything.
 
Nov 9, 2009
263
165
I tried it, didn't really fix much for me. The steering wheel got heavier, and the effects that were minimal before, is more noticeable, however, I still have no feeling of ruts or anything.
Yes same here, changing the device file line from my g27 with force or friction did hardly anything. I tried both 1 and 3 and 6 values (same car, same stage)
However: for my g27 only thing that made a difference was when i put the profiler device options back to default and 900 degree rotation. I suddenly had a more lively wheel. Kept the game ffb default except self align torque, dropped to 85.
 

Ole Marius Myrvold

JWB 96-13
Staff
Premium
Sep 29, 2009
9,421
5,361
Yes same here, changing the device file line from my g27 with force or friction did hardly anything. I tried both 1 and 3 and 6 values (same car, same stage)
However: for my g27 only thing that made a difference was when i put the profiler device options back to default and 900 degree rotation. I suddenly had a more lively wheel. Kept the game ffb default except self align torque, dropped to 85.
I've used 900 degrees since I started up DR2, it's not lively at all :/
 
Nov 9, 2009
263
165
I've used 900 degrees since I started up DR2, it's not lively at all :/
i meant turn to default and then set it back to 900 degrees. Default button sets it at 270 :D

But anyway i did some runs. Although i can feel some things. Sometimes the wheel is just dead on the straight gravel roads. I concentraded on what my steering wheel in my volvo 240 did on a dirt road coming home from work. I must admit in dr2.0, i am missing stuff like potholes in the road.
 

Case_

6000RPM
Premium
Jun 30, 2011
6,551
6,823
44
BTW, this supposed fix is making its way around the internet in many versions, and the one I specifically saw on Reddit before it was even mentioned here claimed that you should raise the ffb_force value so much because "the default value for this setting is 10", basically reasoning someone made a mistake and set the option too low for the wheels (as in 0.9 where it should've apparently been 9 or something like that).

Well, I'm surprised nobody commented on this before, so maybe something changed in the meantime between the release of the Deluxe version and the release of the peasant version, but, as I finally have access to the game - the default setting for this is not 10. It is 1. It is clearly stated in the very same file where the settings are supposed to be done. So by doing this "fix", you're not setting the FFB where it was supposed to be in the first place, you are amplifying everything by 5 (or more), which means you will be clipping horribly all the time (and it certainly feels like that if you do this) and you'll in fact risk damage on your wheel due to the strain. (Not to mention it will all feel absolutely horrible and it won't really add any road detail back - I've tried it.)

You might possibly be able to use the 5+ setting for this if you tweak your in-game settings considerably (as in lower the relevant sliders A LOT), but I'd still expect there to be intermittent strong clipping and generally weird things happening due to the setting multiplying the base values so much. (Which, after all, is already confirmed with people complaining about their steering pulling to one side after they've done this "fix".) I didn't have time to test this part yet, but honestly, I'm not holding my breath.

But please, I really urge you *not* to do this "fix" while using default FFB in-game settings. Not if you like your wheel.
 

RoccoTTS

100RPM
Dec 4, 2016
107
125
BTW, this supposed fix is making its way around the internet in many versions, and the one I specifically saw on Reddit before it was even mentioned here claimed that you should raise the ffb_force value so much because "the default value for this setting is 10", basically reasoning someone made a mistake and set the option too low for the wheels (as in 0.9 where it should've apparently been 9 or something like that).

Well, I'm surprised nobody commented on this before, so maybe something changed in the meantime between the release of the Deluxe version and the release of the peasant version, but, as I finally have access to the game - the default setting for this is not 10. It is 1. It is clearly stated in the very same file where the settings are supposed to be done. So by doing this "fix", you're not setting the FFB where it was supposed to be in the first place, you are amplifying everything by 5 (or more), which means you will be clipping horribly all the time (and it certainly feels like that if you do this) and you'll in fact risk damage on your wheel due to the strain. (Not to mention it will all feel absolutely horrible and it won't really add any road detail back - I've tried it.)

You might possibly be able to use the 5+ setting for this if you tweak your in-game settings considerably (as in lower the relevant sliders A LOT), but I'd still expect there to be intermittent strong clipping and generally weird things happening due to the setting multiplying the base values so much. (Which, after all, is already confirmed with people complaining about their steering pulling to one side after they've done this "fix".) I didn't have time to test this part yet, but honestly, I'm not holding my breath.

But please, I really urge you *not* to do this "fix" while using default FFB in-game settings. Not if you like your wheel.
Yes, you have to be careful with this. That's why i settled with 2.0 instead of 5.0/8.0 and off course lower other values in your in-game settings.
When i used 5.0, i had a lot of clipping even with the suggested lower values in in-game settings.
 

Ermz

10RPM
Premium
Apr 6, 2018
13
8
33
But please, I really urge you *not* to do this "fix" while using default FFB in-game settings. Not if you like your wheel.
Totally agreed. I tried this 'fix' both on my friend's Thrustmaster TX and my own 500RS and it was horrible. Forced completely overpowered, clipping horribly, and leads you to simply attenuate everything back down in the in-game settings. Also noticed the same as yourself regarding someone interpreting the default '1.0' to be '10'. Not sure where they got that idea from.

If you're going to amplify the settings in that device file, try not to exceed '2.0'.

What this game really needs, IMO, is a 'Minimum Force' setting ala AC, ACC and rFactor 2. This way the small forces can overcome the initial torque requirements needed to generate FFB on belt or gear-driven wheels, and we'll get the detail without needing to break our wrists. It would also benefit from a 'hard lock' setting so we can keep the wheels at their default 900 in the CP.

Regarding your comments on damper settings, is it not generally just used as an artificial 'weight' control for the wheel? I've experimented with it at 100% and 0% in the Control Panel, and in most sims I seem to post quicker times with no damping.
 

Case_

6000RPM
Premium
Jun 30, 2011
6,551
6,823
44
Regarding your comments on damper settings, is it not generally just used as an artificial 'weight' control for the wheel? I've experimented with it at 100% and 0% in the Control Panel, and in most sims I seem to post quicker times with no damping.
No, that's the old misconception, I've tried to explain it many times now (so people must certainly be sick of it/me). It used to work like that, long time ago, yes, an artificial wheel weight put on top of what the game was outputting. It no longer does that. It is now a fully programmable force effect, just like constant or periodic forces. It only creates wheel weight if the game programmers choose to do it themselves, and can be used fully dynamically, otherwise it has no effect. In fact most "true" sims don't even use the damper forces in a significant way nowadays, so I'd say if you see quicker times without damper, you're very likely experiencing the wonders of placebo effect :)

Unless I'm mistaken, rF2 and AMS don't use the damper forces at all, so there should be absolutely no difference no matter how you set it in your wheel's control panel. AC does use it, but it only uses it to create the effect of steering weight on a static or very slow moving car - I believe that the cutoff speed is something like 5 kph or so if I remember correctly, so again, as soon as you are moving faster than that, damper setting should have zero effect. ACC doesn't use the damper at all I believe (I think they now use their own damper implementation that's independent on this). IRacing has a damper slider, so you can set the damping strength within the game to whatever you like, and if you turn the damper to 0 in your wheel CP, then the slider obviously does nothing. I actually no longer remember how and if Raceroom uses it, I should probably recheck :) And I don't remember PCars settings in the slightest, but it probably has some slider for it, called "lateral driving inertia knee-jerk automatic displacement MxYZA silencer post-setting multiplier" or something clear and simple like that :p

Of all the sims and games in the past few years, I only recall WRC7 using damper in a significant way (and offering no sliders to adjust it initially, though those were added later in a patch), and Dirt Rally/Dirt 4, where the absence of damper forces wasn't as significantly felt as in WRC7, but setting damper to 0 definitely took parts of the FFB away that were supposed to be there, and caused some of the sliders to basically stop working (see iRacing) with quite a lot of people not even noticing.