T300rs best choice for AMS?

Discussion in 'Automobilista' started by David Ignjatovic, Oct 1, 2016.

  1. Marc Collins

    Marc Collins

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    You realize that certain classes of race cars (esp. rally) where you are doing a lot of sawing at the wheel put the paddles on the column instead of the wheel on purpose? It isn't "stupid," it's a logical and safety-based choice. When the wheel is getting turned quickly and a lot (either by the driver or the inertia of the car sliding), it is better to always know where the up-shift and down-shift is. Not needed for an F1 car, of course, but for rallying, road racing, drifting, etc., in a car with a normal 720 degree + lock-to-lock range, it's vastly superior.

    In terms of our toy wheels, one position might be preferred over another depending on what type of racing the purchaser is likely to do more.
     
  2. GuitarTech

    GuitarTech
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    It's just my opinion about the fixed paddles and I really didn't like it, after driving forever with moving paddles. I've driven a Nissan GTR, several BMWs, and Lamborghinis IRL with fixed paddles, and found it strange having to sometimes move my hand round the wheel to change gear in corners, but that's just me.
    Shame that they don't make Ferraris and Lambos with manual gearboxes with those lovely alloy gates any more, but I digress:
    I don't drive formula cars, and all the rally autos I've ever seen have a huge lever in the middle for the sequential gearbox. Or conventional H-Pattern before they had sequential boxes, if you're old enough to remember those :)
    I'm not familiar with the new generation of rally cars, I stopped being interested in Rally sport a long time ago.
    The cars I drive in sims have mostly sequential boxes with a central lever. And if they have paddles instead, I prefer them to move with the wheel. My wheelrim has a yellow centre stripe so you can orientate: UPshifts are always right from the stripe, and DOWNshifts left when using the paddles. I prefer a central lever anyway, I'd love a roadcar with a bloody huge billet alloy lever in the middle for shifting :) the best I will probably be able to achieve is to buy a VW with a DSG box, and change up and down manually :)
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2016
  3. Qazdar Karim

    Qazdar Karim
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    Installed mine today with G27 pedals (load cell) and the TH8A.

    Did few laps on AC and AMS and i can tell you that the wheel feels really well, i still need to get used to the shifting paddles though.
     
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  4. Rafa Fernandez

    Rafa Fernandez
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    I'm using now my brand new T300rs with F599xx wheel, and it's great! But I still need to configure well for AMS. Can anyone share a wheel profile for T300rs and AMS please??
     
  5. PicoBp

    PicoBp
    #26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew Premium

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    Just go all default. Maybe reduce the low ffb setting to 10%. ;)
     
  6. fortyfivekev

    fortyfivekev

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    I have the Thrustmaster Control panel strength set to 75%, Constant 100%, Periodic 100% and the others at 0. In game I have Effects = Pure 360hz (reduce if causes stuttering), Strength = 100% and FFB Low Boost = 40%. Works for me.
     
  7. Rafa Fernandez

    Rafa Fernandez
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    Thanks!! I'll try those
     
  8. TeSL9

    TeSL9
    Pessimistic (rarely flying) Finn :) Premium

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    I have TX, but its the same wheel.
    Don't you get clipping feel with that with some of the cars? That seems alot for me.
    Been using same values but control panel overall max at 72% and ffb low boost 36-38%.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2016
  9. tpw

    tpw

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    In my T300 experience using settings similar to fortyfivekev's most of the cars (Opala is a notable exception) come nowhere near clipping if using the default values in the realfeel.ini. Of course, I'm just waving my arms around in the absence of an FFB clipping tool.
     
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  10. PicoBp

    PicoBp
    #26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew Premium

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    I use default control panel values both with the TX and T300 (75% overall, 100/100/100/100) and 100% in-game + 10-20% low boost.
     
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  11. fortyfivekev

    fortyfivekev

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    I think that the best settings probably depend on what you drive most in the game and your own preferences. I'm not spending too much time with the F1 cars which I would assume generate the larger forces. Mostly I'm driving the FVee, F3, Marcas, Boxer, StockCarV8 and recently all the Britpack cars, and I find these settings okay.

    Agree it would be nice to have a clipping app like the one in AC. Occasionally I look at the MoTeC chart for steering force but something dedicated would be better. I am using the default realfeel values apart from the Boxer which I find too vague with the default.
     
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  12. Skazz

    Skazz

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    Could you elaborate on what you changed for the Boxer, since I have the same feeling and was wondering how to tweak that car individually?
    (sorry if it's a stupid question, I'm new to the game and was really hoping not to have to tweak realfeel directly, too many bad memories of hours doing that instead of just racing in rF1)

    As for T300 settings: I have my T300 at 75/100/100/0/0 in drivers, with in game FFB at 80% and low boost at the official-forums-recommended 30%. To me it felt like 100% was getting uncomfortably close to clipping on fast elevation change corners, but I didn't feel any significant telltale T300 clipping buzz so perhaps I should put it back up again... It certainly helps SAT forces to maximize wheel spin speed, i.e. when attempting to drift the Caterhams :)
     
  13. fortyfivekev

    fortyfivekev

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    Just change this line in RealFeelPlugin.ini

    [Boxer]
    MaxForceAtSteeringRack=-3200.000000

    to:

    [Boxer]
    MaxForceAtSteeringRack=-2900.000000

    You can always change it back if you don't like it. I also remembered that I made the same change to the C7R mod for the same reason.

    In general I prefer the FFB in AMS but I find the AC method of having a minimum value based on the type of wheel and a clipping app that you use to get a good FFB setting for each car to be a much more understandable method of getting things right.

    A bit off topic but does anyone know what value to use for the maximum/minimum lines where clipping occurs on the MoTeC chart for steering arm force? Does it vary based on the wheel?
     
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  14. Paul Bennett

    Paul Bennett
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    I'm looking to invest in a T300 or TX on Black Friday will be hunting down a deal, is there really any difference between the two ? I want the T3PA bundle.
     
  15. alexSchmurtz

    alexSchmurtz
    SpeedyMite Racing Staff Premium

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    More experience people will give more details but basically:
    - TX is compatible with Xbox while T300 is PS3/PS4 compatible. Both compatible with PC!
    - 900° rotation for TX, 1080° for T300
    - 3 pedals set T3PA for TX, only 2 basic (crappy?) pedals for T300
    Steering wheels are different also (obviously TX has the X-box buttons layout, T300 has Playstation buttons).
    The rest is pretty similar as far as I know...
     
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  16. PicoBp

    PicoBp
    #26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew Premium

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    Well, not exactly. Both the TX and T300 has bundles with T3PA and addon rims. 28cm leather for TX and 30cm Alcantara for the T300. Base difference is 900/1080° rotation and XBOX/PS compatibility between the TX/T300. Performance otherwise is exactly the same.
     
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  17. Paul Bennett

    Paul Bennett
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    Yes my question is more performance related just wondering if there was any difference at all, will be PC only the 900/1080 not an issue.
    Thanks now just need to find the best price out there :)
     
  18. David Ignjatovic

    David Ignjatovic

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    The ftrucks should be killer with t300
     
  19. David Ignjatovic

    David Ignjatovic

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    Just skimming thru a PRC article regarding new sim racers.
    From my experience everytime i upgraded my equipment i went faster and had more control.

    My g27 cost $400 and lasted 5 yrs...i think that equates to 20c a day...hopefully i can have the same experience of longevity with my superior t300.
     
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  20. alexSchmurtz

    alexSchmurtz
    SpeedyMite Racing Staff Premium

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    Mmm, I would not count on that: products lifetime is getting shorter and shorter… The first fridges were lasting 40 or 50 years, now it is more 5 years no? Same for TV or washing machine… :unsure: I have the feeling it is the same with the latest wheels: they are much more advanced but a tad more fragile… A G25 was just rock solid, some are still using theirs 10 years later. That said, I hope my T300 will last a while! ;)
     
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