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T300 SUPERB FFB SETTINGS 2020 (with CM)

Stereo

Premium
The 'compression' setting in CSP FFB tweaks is inspired by audio compression btw, and actually does the proper analogous thing (bring up quiet ffb without clipping loud ffb)... to be clear it's not at all dynamic, it's just good for cars that have a wide range of peak cornering forces (because of downforce). Actually doing a more complicated thing where it tracks the average and amplifies variations around that, is out of my paygrade.
 
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Rastoupine

Premium
Yep, I'm finishing my mechatronical engineering studies right now and thought about becoming an audio engineer after school.
Still doing some mixing for small bands I know.

Nothing better than seeing audio levels and frequencies bouncing in all the plugins :D

Comes at the cost of not able to stand all the crap quality online meetings over the last year :rolleyes::roflmao:

nice gl with your studies ! One last question, i would like to know do i really heave to restart the LUTGenerator/Wheelcheck procedure if i want to use it ?

I mean, can't i just use the previous generated .csv to generate my lut ?
 

RasmusP

Premium
nice gl with your studies ! One last question, i would like to know do i really heave to restart the LUTGenerator/Wheelcheck procedure if i want to use it ?

I mean, can't i just use the previous generated .csv to generate my lut ?
Thanks!

The previous csv will generate exactly the same lut. You could also just use the old lut file then :p

But I wouldn't use a lut with a t300, honestly...

You can also just open the notepad and type in your own lut. It's just a look up table for how the ffb level gets changed.
Starting with 0.0|0.0 and ends with 1.0|1.0

If you're not typing in 100 lines, the gaps will be interpolated (I don't know if curved or linear though).

If you want to test if your wheel feels "linear" for you:
Download the "skid pad" mod track, take any car and drive in the big circle.
Turn in further and further and decide of the resistance increases in a linear way.

In my opinion, every wheel does that very well. The motor output is designed to do that...

However the resistance when throwing your wheel doesn't really feel linear, which explains why wheelcheck and the generated LUTs from it look a bit weird...
 
same family of ts xw that i have. Using CM is very better to afine the utilisation of the FFB.
Thanks to you
 

Rastoupine

Premium
Hello everyone i have another question and thats may be the last one.

Why do people uses ffb gain around 90 - 80% for racing and around 50 - 60% for drifting ? How does it feel compared to reality ? Why not using the same setting for all ?

I can't compare i dont even have a driver licence. (But maybe soon, playing at sim makes me want to to get it)
 

RasmusP

Premium
Hello everyone i have another question and thats may be the last one.

Why do people uses ffb gain around 90 - 80% for racing and around 50 - 60% for drifting ? How does it feel compared to reality ? Why not using the same setting for all ?

I can't compare i dont even have a driver licence. (But maybe soon, playing at sim makes me want to to get it)
That doesn't make sense at all...
In fact I would use more gain for drifting than for racing.

When racing you're doing precise and careful inputs to keep the tyres at the grip limit. You need every little nuance you can get to feel this edge of grip.
Toi much ffb can shake the wheel and you can't hold it, which leads to less precise inputs.

When drifting, you only give the wheel a little flick to destabilize the rear.
After that you need a wheel that spins as fast as possible into "opposite lock".
As soon as you're sliding, there's barely any ffb, very easy to hold the wheel.
When ending a drift, the wheel will have a short moment of higher ffb where you active "stop the rotation" so the rear won't continue to slide into the opposite direction (although normally you want exactly that. Either sliding right or left and never just drive straight).

So I would always use higher gain for drifting. No idea why these people you mention do it :cautious:
 
With high gain the wheel resistance to tun fast is higher, so with lower ffb you can turn way faster when drifting. For race driving higher gain gives accuracy to your wheel movements because its a bit heavier.
Its a common practice for drifitng, but what feels easier is personal...as in ffb settings...
 

Stereo

Premium
If your wheel turns faster at lower ffb then you probably have settings way off... mine's easiest to drift at 100% gain and I'd run at more like 60% for racing because it's less fatiguing and the ffb doesn't matter as much.
 
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RasmusP

Premium
If your wheel turns faster at lower ffb then you probably have settings way off... mine's easiest to drift at 100% gain and I'd run at more like 60% for racing because it's less fatiguing and the ffb doesn't matter as much.
Well Tassos says that the driver can turn the wheel easier with less gain, which is correct, if you're working against the front tyres.
But from my drift experience, you're only going "with the wheel" and not really against it, apart from when going in and out of the drift which shouldn't be fatiguing with a t300 at 100% imo.
 

Rastoupine

Premium
i red it somewhere on reddit and others forums. i've found it weird too.

So i adjusted the FFB to feel my tires behavior, the ground effects and found my perfect configuration for the TX Wheel

Thanks for all the advices.
 
I have a TSXW, and I feel the steering wheel too soft on straight lines, slightly slower speeds, it looks like I'm driving a street car, not gt3
in my old g27 the ffB worked better need some help, please
 
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