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T300 SUPERB FFB SETTINGS 2020 (with CM)

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16
Hi Guys,

After having the T300 for over a year now (which I love), I tried, as all of us, to find a superb FFB feeling to my liking, which is not brutal, but strong enough to feel even the slightest road / track anomalies, or when passing over a curb to feel it quite nicely. I tried all the combos posted here, and then I started experimenting mixing and matching settings, testing sliders one by one, then a mix of them, and so on (ther eis no LUT in these settings as Thrustmaster are extremely linear). Anyway, I 've come up with the below settings which I find almost perfect (for me), and I wanted to share them with all, and maybe someone likes them! So, lets go:

T300 PANEL
T300 PANEL.PNG




In-game Settings (In CM)

CM.PNG




Enabled Gyro

Open assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini using Notepad:
GYRO.PNG




Post Processing

Open Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini using Notepad:
FF POST PR.PNG



The above settings work standalone. On top of that, you can also activate the FFB clip app, or not.
(some people like it, others not, I personally use it because it feels so much better!)

The app is nice on Dynamic, however on default settings the Dynamic mode "moves" so fast from very soft to hard that confuses you. So, I ve come with this setup which is subtle

On track FFB Clip App
DEFAULT FFB STRENGTH 75
DYNAMIC THRESOLD 100
DYNAMIC MODE INTENSITY 150
DYNAMIC MODE ON

I set the majority of the cars between 65-80 (depending on the car).
For drifting, justand set the ffb clip strength to 35-45.




ATTENTION, THE NEW FFB TWEAKS IN CM, SHOULD NOT BE ACTIVATED


Do a lap at Nordschleife where the road has all kinds of anomalies, uphills, slopes, curbs. bumps, etc.

I hope you like them !
 
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Messages
81
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16
I found the in built FFB in sol to be much better. Give it a go ;) there's a post about it on here somewhere.

I tested them the moment they came out (thats why in my post I mention NOT to activate it). In general my hands felt the same thing with my settings (if not a bit less), but I lost all the minimal FFB details of the track.
So, I will be following the next versions maybe it will go better, but for now I stay with my settings. Moreover, unfortunately CSP and SOL come with tons of experimental features, but with no detailed explanations / manual whatsoever, and everyone is trying to guess, ask, discord on how to set them up (there are hundreds of questions in Discord, about anything you can imagine). If you look the FFB tweaks thread, there are already opinions, speculations, theories, and everyone is guessing what to do (watch how many pages the thread will get, and we will have no final clear results...i.e. if you move this slider then the car will do this, if you combine these sliders the FFB will get like this, etc).
I spent almost a year trying to end up with my T300 settings (which I'm very happy), so I woudn't go that path again, unless the FFB tweaks come with clear and simple English explanations in the future. The starting text in the post say nothing to me, apart from some "wooden" language about what each slider does....
 
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boomRoasted

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@Tassos thanks for these settings! It made a huge difference with my TX. I tried to get into the assetto corsa gyro and post-processing files you posted and could not find them. Is there something I need to download or is it because of the TX base itself?
 
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81
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16
Hi boom, happy to hear that you like them!
im not a file expert myself(!!) But I think that the files should be there regardless of the wheel. Are you sure you checked at the correct path, I.e. for post process. to your documents / assetto folder and NOT in the Assetto game folder (in steam) ? And for.gyro, the correct path for config (the one whithin the system folder)?.'it is impossible not having the assetto corsa.ini file...
 
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boomRoasted

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Found this post and I think it’s worth giving a try. I’m not sure how much word gets around about ffb settings but everyone wants a more realistic feeling.

I saw your earlier post @rudidudi and immediately thought of this one. I think this csp patch/addition is a great compliment to @Tassos ffb settings. Like I said, it’s worth a few laps.:D

The default recommended setting is 25% but I find it best a couple of percentage points less.
 
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RasmusP

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Hi, just thought I'd comment and clear a few things up.
Don't take it as negative feedback please! If your settings feel great, they are great. Simple as that!

However when I researched a lot to get a better ffb with my G27, I've learnt a lot of stuff and I've read so much wrong information on the internet.
So I really appreciate your work here! Awesome to see someone doing a well written guide.

But I think you might've gotten a few things wrong or slightly incorrectly. And maybe there's room for improvement!

Before my long post:
I've owned a 200° TM ffb wheel from 2002 until 2014, didn't really drive much with it though.. Grand Prix 3, Need for Speed Porsche and a few other Need for Speeds.

Then bought a G27 for Project Cars in 2014, a good friend bough a DFGT in 2016.
In 2019 I first bought a TS-PC that had coil whine so I replaced it but that was even worse... Drove a lot with it in the 2 weeks I had it though.

Then bought a CSW 2.5 while one friend bought a CSL Elite and another one bought a T300RS.
Of course I tried them thoroughly.

T300 PANEL
T300 PANEL.PNG
Spring ffb channel is not used by any modern game so 0% or 100% don't matter at all.
75% are the default from Thrustmaster, right? So I guess since hearing a few stories about overheating T300's, leaving it at 75% might be good.
However you could put the overall strength to 100% (which is 33% more than 75%) and then lower the gain in the game about 33%. You'd have the same average strength but would gain headroom for peaks.
If it would feel better or be worse for the wheel, no idea. Just a theoretical thought as the game's gain sits before the "clipping limiter" and the wheel base strength slider behind the clipping limiter.
In-game Settings (In CM)

CM.PNG
Some slight min force: yep, I like that too. Using 1.5% on my csw 2.5.

Kerb: wow! Not sure if you know that Kerbs are actually 3D models with accurate ffb through the physics engine? This kerb effect simply shoots a sine wave into your wheel, whenever the surface.ini in the track says "you're on a kerb type surface".
I'm personally using 1% to get some slight vibration when I'm running across "pain only" kerbs. Simply to know the track limits and that the outside wheel might have a little less grip.
The left/right sine wave might feel like the car is really at the limit and going wild, while you're only driving across some "kerb paint".

Road: that's a lot of vibration, however I like it too. For me it hides too many details so I'm using only about 5%. It's a sine wave like the kerb effect, but it actually changes its frequency, depending on which surface type you're on. So when the tarmac colour changes, you'll get a different vibration.
Good for immersion but at 125% you're having a really high base level of vibrations all the time... Definitely hides a lot of details.

Slip and ABS: I love them for the additional feedback you'd normally get through your feet and body.
But why such high levels? My wheel is rattling a lot even at only 20% for both. With my G27 I only needed 20-30% to get a lot of rattling.
I guess you need them that high to feel anything from it due to the massive road effects?
Do you feel the tyres at all under braking if you're hitting the abs? Honest question.. I tried your effects-levels and my wheel is just a "shaking something"...

This might've come across a bit harsh towards you, sorry if that's the case! It's of course down to your personal liking but I really don't feel any details from the tyres anymore with it and everything is just vibrating like crazy :x3:

Enabled Gyro

Open assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini using Notepad:
GYRO.PNG
Gyro is definitely nice! However the new Gyro from the ffb-tweaks section of CSP does it a lot better.
What it does:
The faster your front tyres spin, the more your wheel will have a bit of inertia/damping against turning.
However the standard gyro also gives this damping, when you're drifting.
But when you're drifting, the front tyres actually stay straight on the road, the rear is rotating around them and therefore your steeringwheel is turning "into opposite lock" on it's own.
But the front tyres stay straight on the road. The steering wheel is only compensating for the rear rotation.

The ffb tweaks gyro fixes this! It gives the damping/intertia physically more correctly. When you're drifting or losing the rear, the steering wheel will turn really quickly, as the inertia of the spinning and still pointing straight fron tyres will actually force the steering wheel to spin more quickly into opposite lock.

For me this is a big difference when racing and catching a slide!

Damper_Min_level: Why do you use this? I find the T300 and also TS-PC to be quite "stiff" and already damped enough. When you try to "throw" the wheel, it will come to stand still pretty soon.
If you think that this damper min level is needed for the gyro to work: It's not. The Gyro is part of the main ffb channel, nothing to do with the damper channel.
At least this was told to me from very knowledgeable modders that worked on the physics of great mods.
Iirc it was "Stereo", who also created the "ffb tweaks" from CSP.

So if you have this active for the Gyro to be active, then put it to 0.00.
If you have it active to actually get a more damped wheel while driving:
Why? I think Thrustmaster wheels are damped enough.

Post Processing

Open Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini using Notepad:
FF POST PR.PNG
Gamma at "1" is just the default ffb. It shapes the ffb into a curve. Values below 1.0 will make the difference between lower forces bigger and the difference between higher forces lower. Your wheel will feel beefier, stronger. But you won't feel nuances close to 100% ffb as good as without gamma.
Values above 1.0 do the opposite. Your wheel will feel weak but you'll feel the nuances at the limit more pronounced.
On my G27, 0.8 felt great, for example. Faking it to feel a bit stronger than it actually was.

So you have it at 1.0, which does just nothing.

The new "range compression" in the "ffb tweaks" is doing something similar to the gamma setting but supposedly better. Instead of just mixing the default ffb with a pre-defined smooth curve, it's actually doing something "intelligent", like a dynamic compressor for audio levels.
I don't use it so I didn't really read into this but in the creator's thread, you can find more information.

The above settings work standalone. On top of that, you can also activate the FFB clip app, or not.
(some people like it, others not, I personally use it because it feels so much better!)

The app is nice on Dynamic, however on default settings the Dynamic mode "moves" so fast from very soft to hard that confuses you. So, I ve come with this setup which is subtle

On track FFB Clip App
DEFAULT FFB STRENGTH 75
DYNAMIC THRESOLD 100
DYNAMIC MODE INTENSITY 150
DYNAMIC MODE ON

I set the majority of the cars between 65-80 (depending on the car).
For drifting, justand set the ffb clip strength to 35-45.
That's a nice tweaking for the dynamic mode of FFB clip.
I'm personally against the dynamic mode from ffb clip and also against ffb clip in general, but I tried your settings and they feel very nice!

Why I'm against it:
1. Kunos developed the cars to have "some okayish level of clipping when using 100% gain in the menu and in the cars".
So when you're just keeping one of the gains (mostly the menu) below 100% and never set the per-car-gain with the numpad while on track to more than 100%, the amount of clipping will always be "fine".
If you use ffb clip in the normal modes (no dynamic), you will have the same strength for every car. More or less, they will still feel differently since you have different physics but you won't have the immersion of cars being a lot stronger or weaker.
Modern F1 = old F1. But in reality they were a lot different!

If you'd be using a Logitech wheel with my LUTs against the deadzone, this would be different. With a weak wheel like the G27, you always want the maximum available strength and dynamic range of what the wheel motors can output.
However there's always one value of gain for each car, where the deadzone will feel perfect, without a notch (too high gain) or a "hole" (too low gain).
FFB clip can't perfectly find this sweetspot so I always recommend to try to find it manually while driving.

2. Dynamic mode is bad!:
Why: You lose the muscle memory to really learn the car's behaviour. With a weaker wheel this isn't such a big deal but for example with the CSW 2.5 you can really feel how the aero of a formula car becomes active at higher speeds. The wheel will be quite soft at lower speeds but as soon as you go down a straight, the wheel will become super strong!
I really noticed this when first driving the Nordschleife in the Lambo GT3 with the CSW after upgrading from my G27.
I became 4 seconds faster, just because I could feel the increased grip from the car's aerodynamic through the fastest corners.
With dynamic mode on, everything will almost have the same strength so no muscle memory is built for car control.

Although if you don't care about getting really fast and consistent and just want to drive casually for your own enjoyment without competition:
Dynamic mode is very awesome!
ATTENTION, THE NEW FFB TWEAKS IN CM, SHOULD NOT BE ACTIVATED
Now with my explanations, I'd suggest you put the damper_min_level to 0.00, deactivate the gyro, disable ffb post processing.
Then activate the ffb tweaks, enable the "Basic" extension, activate the "physically accurate gyro", leave the strength at 25% and leave the "Range compression" at the default of 100%.
This should not feel worse than your current settings! It just leaves your "not doing anything" Gamma value of 1.0 as it is and switches the Gyro for a better Gyro.
1611069930351.png

I spent almost a year trying to end up with my T300 settings (which I'm very happy), so I woudn't go that path again, unless the FFB tweaks come with clear and simple English explanations in the future. The starting text in the post say nothing to me, apart from some "wooden" language about what each slider does....
Don't feel pressured to change your settings! If it feels great right now, then great!
I just wanted to give my input, since after my looooong research, I feel the need to use my gained knowledge to be some kind of FFB-hearsay-correction-warrior :roflmao::speechless:

Again: don't take this with a grain of salt and please don't feel critized in a bad way!
When explaining or correcting something in English, it's very difficult to get to the point without sounding "unfriendly".

I hope this was somewhat helpful for your or someone else that finds this thread and maybe when you got some time to spend, you gonna try my suggestions :)
 

RobPhoboS

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RasmusP

I have the TX (similar I guess to T300), is it worth using a LUT ?
I've been using one I made a while back, for some time but I'm still experimenting, and just learnt some great info from your post there :thumbsup:
 

RasmusP

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797
RasmusP

I have the TX (similar I guess to T300), is it worth using a LUT ?
I've been using one I made a while back, for some time but I'm still experimenting, and just learnt some great info from your post there :thumbsup:
Definitely not.
The manufacturers aren't as stupid as putting non linear ffb motors into their bases... At least for me, driving in ac on the circle pit of the track "skidpad" felt very linear with all wheels (dfgt, g27, t300, ts-pc and csw 2.5), while using what wheelcheck created always felt super weird...

My LUTs are only a smoother minimum force slider.
I'd say if you're using/needing more than 3% minimum force to get a tight ffb around the center, then a LUT is useful as the notch from the too cut off minimum force becomes feelable.
 
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