T300 best settings. There must be.

[kralavci35]

Hello guys. I just bought a Thrustmaster T300. Before, I was using Logitech Dfgt. Does anybody can give me the ideal settings for the T300 if you have. Also, a link or other guide source would be perfect. I tried a little, but my biggest issue is, the wheel is weighty, and the wheel is forcing too much to go back to the center position when I turn it. It is unnatural.

 

[RasmusP]

Honestly I haven't played with the settings at all since I installed it. I don't have the Thrustmaster software installed at all, just the basic driver.

Does this basic driver have the degrees setting available?
just curious!

 

[Kevin Troschinski]

Wait wait before we misunderstand each other. The Thrustmaster don`t have special software to install.

While installing the driver package you have direct acces through win10 "game steering" settings (don´t know exact how it´s called in englisch )
so yes it does have all settings inclusive degrees .

But i think out of the box fe. the spring is @100% so i would wonder if Stereo hab not adjusted this...

 

[RasmusP]

Wait wait before we misunderstand each other. The Thrustmaster don`t have special software to install.

While installing the driver package you have direct acces through win10 "game steering" settings (don´t know exact how it´s called in englisch )
so yes it does have all settings inclusive degrees .

But i think out of the box fe. the spring is @100% so i would wonder if Stereo hab not adjusted this...

Spring is inactive in all games I know!
You can leave it at 100%, doesn't matter at all.

Don't confuse the spring ffb channel with the center spring from the wheel driver!

That center spring is disabled at default (although the slider being at 12% Afaik for Thrustmaster).
That center spring is for games that don't have ffb. Like I played need for speed underground 2 for example

 

[Stereo]

No, I looked in there and it's at 75% overall, 100% constant/periodic, 0% spring, 100% damper. I must have clicked through when I installed it. AC only uses constant and damping anyway though.

 

[rudidudi]

@RasmusP May I ask you what are your slip+abs effect at?

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP May I ask you what are your slip+abs effect at?

Kerb = 1% (I don't like the fake sine wave effect but I want to feel something for non-3d kerbs, since I get the sound too. 1% is enough for some vibrations. Maybe go up to 4%)

Road = 4% (anything higher gives me constant vibrations.. I don't really like it but 0% is a bit meh)

Slip = 20%
ABS = 20%

I need these as feedback for what I'm doing and I still want to feel them when I'm at higher FFB levels, like mid corner.
I put them to the same so locking up with a non-abs car feels the same as hitting the abs.

You can't drift with 20% slip as you get constant rattling but for racing I like both at 20%.

 

[rudidudi]

Kerb = 1% (I don't like the fake sine wave effect but I want to feel something for non-3d kerbs, since I get the sound too. 1% is enough for some vibrations. Maybe go up to 4%)

Road = 4% (anything higher gives me constant vibrations.. I don't really like it but 0% is a bit meh)

Slip = 20%
ABS = 20%

I need these as feedback for what I'm doing and I still want to feel them when I'm at higher FFB levels, like mid corner.
I put them to the same so locking up with a non-abs car feels the same as hitting the abs.

You can't drift with 20% slip as you get constant rattling but for racing I like both at 20%.

Cool! thanks for the detailed answer

 

[Goblin616]

I don't have a T300, but can anybody explain what filter does (gain filter or something under the Gain setting is a filter setting))??

 

[RasmusP]

I don't have a T300, but can anybody explain what filter does (gain filter or something under the Gain setting is a filter setting))??

It makes everything smoother.
If you go over a kerb and the ffb steps would be :
100,50,100,50,100,50 the filtered ffb would be 95/55 etc with low filter settings or 80/70 with high filter settings.

I'm not sure if the filtering keeps the average closer to the basic gain though.
A kerb might also become 55/50/55 /50 with max filter.

 

[Goblin616]

It makes everything smoother.
If you go over a kerb and the ffb steps would be :
100,50,100,50,100,50 the filtered ffb would be 95/55 etc with low filter settings or 80/70 with high filter settings.

I'm not sure if the filtering keeps the average closer to the basic gain though.
A kerb might also become 55/50/55 /50 with max filter.

I like, but a bit confusing: you mean it smoothes out the feedback, instead of harsh... idk what I'm saying haha! Mine's set to 10%.. what's a good... maybe I'll try different values

 

[RasmusP]

I like, but a bit confusing: you mean it smoothes out the feedback, instead of harsh... idk what I'm saying haha! Mine's set to 10%.. what's a good... maybe I'll try different values

0% is recommend for everyone. AC doesn't need any smoothing from my experience!
Only use it if you really have issues with vibrations.
Like using a Logitech wheel in the bedroom next to your partner, lol.

 

[Goblin616]

0% is recommend for everyone. AC doesn't need any smoothing from my experience!
Only use it if you really have issues with vibrations.
Like using a Logitech wheel in the bedroom next to your partner, lol.

HAHA oh.. ok i'll turn it off then =P. I do use a Logitech, but Idk about vibrations... sometimes, I'll have to test it. How's the Thrustmaster wheel in comparison? I may have to retire the old dog..

 

[RasmusP]

HAHA oh.. ok i'll turn it off then =P. I do use a Logitech, but Idk about vibrations... sometimes, I'll have to test it. How's the Thrustmaster wheel in comparison? I may have to retire the old dog..

Better in every way?

Only downside is the fan for the cooling. The Logitech wheels rattle but are quiet apart from that.
The belt drive of the thrustmaster wheels is louder when you're steering and the fan is constantly humming.

The ts-pc is a lot quieter than the t300 from my experience.

 

[Kevin Troschinski]

Better in every way?

Only downside is the fan for the cooling. The Logitech wheels rattle but are quiet apart from that.
The belt drive of the thrustmaster wheels is louder when you're steering and the fan is constantly humming.

The ts-pc is a lot quieter than the t300 from my experience.

LOL After 3 years of using i can barely hear my t300 at all. And the cooling process is about 2 minutes in 1 Hour.

My old logitech with all those ratteling is like 3x louder.

Or is it the t300rs Ferrari alcantara only which is soo quiet? It can’t be the base is the same isn’t it.

Edit: of course if people crank up the ffb too high, the cooling will be constantly needed.

 

[RasmusP]

LOL After 3 years of using i can barely hear my t300 at all. And the cooling process is about 2 minutes in 1 Hour.

My old logitech with all those ratteling is like 3x louder.

Or is it the t300rs Ferrari alcantara only which is soo quiet? It can’t be the base is the same isn’t it.

Edit: of course if people crank up the ffb too high, the cooling will be constantly needed.

Yeah it's about using the maximum ffb available.
Most Logitech users (me included) use 100% all the time and when they upgrade to a better wheel, they want more force.

I've found that my feel for "real life forces" is somewhere between the TS-PC and the Fanatec CSW 2.5.

A friend of mine wanted to upgrade from his Logitech DFGT to a T300 but sent it back due to the fan noise and the belt noise while steering.
I tried it too and definitely would've went for 100% ffb strength.

With the TS-PC I've found that 100% at the base and about 60-70% gain in the games felt good.

With the CSL Elite of a friend, I've found the same as with the TS-PC I've had for 2 weeks:
100% and 60-70% gain in the games.

Now with my CSW 2.5, I'm often running a bit less.
Mostly 80% in the base and 50-60% gain in the games.

CSW 2.5 has 8Nm.
80% base = 6.4 Nm
60% game gain = let's say this equals to 60% of 6.4 Nm for average steering forces.
So 3.84 Nm constantly at the hands while driving.

Now let's just use these values:

Wheel Torque. EdRacing.com iRacing

G27 = 2.5 Nm maximum (so definitely 100% all the time...)
T300 = similar to the TX = 3.9 Nm.

So the T300 at 100% base strength and 100% game gain is about what I'm experiencing constantly with my CSW 2.5.

But with the CSW, I have peaks for kerbs/details/working aerodynamics at higher speeds that go up to 6.4 Nm.

The TS-PC seems to be a bit stronger than the T500 so probably around 6 Nm, which is a little bit less than what I'm using with my CSW 2.5.

3 of my online racing buddies have a direct drive wheel. OSW small mige and simucube 2.
They are both using 8-10 Nm as base strength.
So a little bit more than I'm using, but they are using lower game gain.

So probably the same average force as I'm using but more peak dynamic.

jfyi: I did a driver training with my road car on tarmac (and rain + snow simulation surfaces). It's a 1995 MB C-Class and the forces when cornering at the limit felt pretty similar to my CSW 2.5 settings.

 

[Kevin Troschinski]

Yeah it's about using the maximum ffb available.
Most Logitech users (me included) use 100% all the time and when they upgrade to a better wheel, they want more force.

Ok i understand your point.
Well i like a more subtile ffb, not too strong so my "out of the box" settings are 75% gain in driver and depending on game 100% - 80%
For me i can say like above i can`t hear the belt working. But yes the cooling is loud, but is only ocsasionnally running.

 

[RasmusP]

Ok i understand your point.
Well i like a more subtile ffb, not too strong so my "out of the box" settings are 75% gain in driver and depending on game 100% - 80%
For me i can say like above i can`t hear the belt working. But yes the cooling is loud, but is only ocsasionnally running.

Then you might also be lucky with your base. It is often recommended to force the fan into permanently on mode to not have fading ffb or getting a faulty base after a while.
Yours seem to work very well!

 

[Goblin616]

Yeah it's about using the maximum ffb available.
Most Logitech users (me included) use 100% all the time and when they upgrade to a better wheel, they want more force.

I've found that my feel for "real life forces" is somewhere between the TS-PC and the Fanatec CSW 2.5.

A friend of mine wanted to upgrade from his Logitech DFGT to a T300 but sent it back due to the fan noise and the belt noise while steering.
I tried it too and definitely would've went for 100% ffb strength.

With the TS-PC I've found that 100% at the base and about 60-70% gain in the games felt good.

With the CSL Elite of a friend, I've found the same as with the TS-PC I've had for 2 weeks:
100% and 60-70% gain in the games.

Now with my CSW 2.5, I'm often running a bit less.
Mostly 80% in the base and 50-60% gain in the games.

CSW 2.5 has 8Nm.
80% base = 6.4 Nm
60% game gain = let's say this equals to 60% of 6.4 Nm for average steering forces.
So 3.84 Nm constantly at the hands while driving.

Now let's just use these values:

Wheel Torque. EdRacing.com iRacing

G27 = 2.5 Nm maximum (so definitely 100% all the time...)
T300 = similar to the TX = 3.9 Nm.

So the T300 at 100% base strength and 100% game gain is about what I'm experiencing constantly with my CSW 2.5.

But with the CSW, I have peaks for kerbs/details/working aerodynamics at higher speeds that go up to 6.4 Nm.

The TS-PC seems to be a bit stronger than the T500 so probably around 6 Nm, which is a little bit less than what I'm using with my CSW 2.5.

3 of my online racing buddies have a direct drive wheel. OSW small mige and simucube 2.
They are both using 8-10 Nm as base strength.
So a little bit more than I'm using, but they are using lower game gain.

So probably the same average force as I'm using but more peak dynamic.

jfyi: I did a driver training with my road car on tarmac (and rain + snow simulation surfaces). It's a 1995 MB C-Class and the forces when cornering at the limit felt pretty similar to my CSW 2.5 settings.

Interesting... I use a G25, and use gain (100% software / 70% AC) - so basically 70%. To me that feels the most 'real' otherwise some cars are way too difficult to steer, and i get the cutoff.

I thought about switching to TS, or Fanatec, but only for better wheel / pedal setup and feel. Not necessarily for increased FFB.

 

[FabianX2]

I did get my first racing seat yesterday. Unforunatly my G27 choose to give up after beeing neglegted for two yers. So I did order a t300 alcantara. I am a bit out of the loop and aim to figur it all out till it arrives

I did read several settings posts but didnt get it all so I would appriciate some more help. I´m no pro not in sims nor in real life and esspecialy not in english.


Here is what I would start with any suggestions are much appriciated:

Profiler:
overal strenght 80 (not shure here)
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 100
min damper 0.0 (is that a pfrofiler or game setting?)


auto center 12% (through game)


In game:
FF strength 100 (I can lower that for each individual car by just pushing +/- on trak right? Seems like a good thing to assign a key on the wheel)
filer 0
minimum force 3

kerbs 5
road 8
slip 25
abs15

enchanced understeer, half ffb - OFF

Kerb = 1% (I don't like the fake sine wave effect but I want to feel something for non-3d kerbs, since I get the sound too. 1% is enough for some vibrations. Maybe go up to 4%)

So the kerb setting is only for tracs without 3d kerbs. So there is no fake effekt on kerbs wich are implemented as 3d model or do both effekts take place in that case? And what about the other way - If there is no 3d model every Curb rattels right? Even if its a flat one. Not shure if I would like that. I´m driving Nordschleife most of the time.

Slip = 20%
ABS = 20%

I need these as feedback for what I'm doing and I still want to feel them when I'm at higher FFB levels, like mid corner.
I put them to the same so locking up with a non-abs car feels the same as hitting the abs.

I am confused why you should want an ABS car feel the same way as a non ABS car. Would you mind to clarify? If I get slipping front tires due to brake bloking I would like the steering to feel extremly light and quit diffrent from the experiece of an only partly blocking ABS brake.

You can't drift with 20% slip as you get constant rattling but for racing I like both at 20%.

I do not care for competitive driving. All I do is lonesome rounds on the Nordschleife just for fun. In generell my driving style is one with a lose tail. I´m not drivfting all the time but like the feeling to do it in a reasonable maner on at least some corners. Is 20% the right value for me or not?

Some additonal Questions:

Should I use the FFB clip application? Seems a good combination with the +/- keys bound to some keys on the wheel. Any good links for a how to?

What about post-processing, experimental and gyro? At least gyro seems to be valued in the community?

Not so shure about the base and in game gain strength for my t300? Should I go for 100/100 or 80/100 or 100/80? I like it harsh and strong but not unrealistic in my small experiance in the real world there are forces at work my g27 could not even come close to display. If I use a high value how likly is it to harm my wheel? Is forcing the fan allways on helping and how do I do that?

Thanks so far. If there are any additional things I should have a look at please tell.

 

[Tassos]

hey mate try these settings at the beginning of my post...

T300 SUPERB FFB SETTINGS 2020 (with CM)

Hi Guys, After having the T300 for over a year now (which I love), I tried, as all of us, to find a superb FFB feeling to my liking, which is not brutal, but strong enough to feel even the slightest road / track anomalies, or when passing over a curb to feel it quite nicely. I tried all the...

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