Software Advice for measurement of FFB consistency (Thrustmaster)

[Heat338]

Hi fellas, I have Thrustmaster TS-PC Ferrari edition, as most of you can know, the base does not have any power shutdown button so I am plugging off the power cable after playing session ends for long term durability( of course after the auto cooling fan stops)

Lately, something becomes remarkable or draws my attention, when I first plug the power cable in and get into the game immediately Force feedback seems little bit light or something is missing, and it affects my driving style, it is still responsive and does the main tricks of FFB but after around 15-20 minutes feedback becomes more noticeable or precise, so I am wondering if there is anything wrong with the wheelbase or software interface or is it just me who is not noticing FFB precisely until getting reflex warm-up,
I am not %100 sure but I experience the same feeling in ACC and Dirt 2 and Raceroom.

I am wondering is there any software that I can measure FFB consistency, level of forces, or signals?which is related to that.
If there is I can measure it when I first plugged in the power cable and test it again after a while when the power comes in and be sure about what is going on.
And if you guys notice any familiar things in Thrustmaster or TS-PC TS-XW series, maybe there must be a reason behind not putting a power cut-off button in the bases.

 

[Sithhy™]

I don't think any such software tools exist as I doubt anyone had these issues before. The only way I can think of that you could test this, is to buy a watt meter to monitor the power usage when the wheel is cold & when it's warmed up. It should be noticable, as you say that the FFB gets better after a while, so I assume it also pushes more current through the motor

 

[Peppelino]

. .. the FFB gets better after a while, so I assume it also pushes more current through the motor

No.. Motors under heavy load, allways draws more current. (amps)

You will end up with.. Opening that thing and re-grease bearings, looking for wear, etc. Tightening nuts and bolts.... To eliminate the heavy load, that you have in the beginning.. when cold.

 

[Sithhy™]

No.. Motors under heavy load, allways draws more current.

That is an obvious statement.
What I meant with my watt meter idea is to see the difference in power usage when idling while the wheel is cold as well as warmed up. You could then tell if the wheelbase for some reason actually uses less power when cold or if it's just the belts needing to be stretched to provide less turning resistance

 

[Peppelino]

While Idling, you say..
Not everyone have a meter or have the knowledge how to use it..
Open the wheel.. there is something mechanical problem, that is new..

 

[BrightCandle]

I had a TS-PC Racer before my CSL DD and I never noticed any startup difference, it felt the same from the moment it started through to when I finished. I never noticed any fade like I did with the T300 nor a warm up. I am not even sure how you would measure this, its something I have been thinking about for a while as to how to capture the FFB output of a wheel to do end to end tests and validate the torque values that the companies provide while also objectively measuring the FFB as its produced to the user to try and show what the differences are from the various companies. I guess here it is just holding force so you could validate it with a strain gauge and Wheelcheck.

 

[Heat338]

I think I figured out the issue here, it is related to the Thrustmaster's Control panel software,
When I experienced this, most of the time I was swapping between different games such as ACC to Raceroom than Richard burns Rally or Dirt 2 and that was messing up something in FFB values of the Control panel.
I think somehow some parts of the previous game's FFB settings becomes still active until the Control panel refreshes itself for the new game, don't ask me how, I don't have any clue about it.

That was the reason for the heavy wheel feeling and it was permanent until I restart the Race/round or reconnect the device.
But either way, Thrustmaster owners can be cautioned on this.

Another hi-cup was caused by the shooting gloves that I was using instead of driving ones...
Those ones are heat-resistant for handling hot components of the firearms during shooting sessions and when they are warmed up on my hands they become softer and permeable after they soak up the sweet, so this was the reason I was getting little ffb details after a while when I put the gloves on, it took some while to figure it out thanks to my Vin Diesel driving skills..

İf it is possible to compare the values with Wheel Check which is caused by messing up, I can still measure the ffb differences due to the game swapping and post them here for software feedback.

Thank you for the all answers guys.