simucube 2 pro which version

I know you are asking about the Simucube Pro, but if you are asking about V1 because of cost, I invite you to consider the Sport.

In my opinion, the Sport has way more power and speed than a typical person, in typical circumstances, needs. Anyone who thinks they need more than 17 nm simply hasn't yet seriously hurt a thumb - and it will happen sooner or later unless you stay far enough down in power to make even clipping moot (and in a crash, if anything, you want it to clip!).

Unless you are SURE you will be running a very heavy wheel (and that's fine), the difference between the Sport and Pro is quite minor: They are both better than most people need or will wind up using.



i ordered the pro r1 but i'm not 100% sure an r2 could also arrive
 
Upvote 0
Higher potential slew rate means a few things: (1) You can break your thumb sooner and/or at lower torque. (2) You may run a heavier or larger-diameter wheel + button box (more of either is slower). (3) You might, maybe, be able to feel some higher-frequency effects above the placebo level.

But how many people are happily running in a lower slew-rate mode anyway since they never changed that setting? And how many games even provide actually useful feedback at high frequencies?

The usual "good, better, best" marketing is most often used to create cognitive dissonance in people, driving them to pay more for features they may not need or use.

I do stand on my opinion that both are better than most people will need or wind up using. And if you are still worried, just run a lighter and smaller diameter wheel! ;)
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Higher potential slew rate means a few things: (1) You can break your thumb sooner and/or at lower torque. (2) You may run a heavier or larger-diameter wheel + button box (more weight means slower). (3) You might, maybe, be able to feel some higher-frequency effects above the placebo level.

But how many people are happily running in a lower slew-rate mode anyway since they never changed that setting? And how many games even provide actually useful feedback at high frequencies?

The usual "good, better, best" marketing is most often used to create cognitive dissonance in people, driving them to pay more for features they may not need or use.

I do stand on my opinion that both are better than most people will need or wind up using. And if you are still worried, just run a lighter and smaller diameter wheel! ;)
This is not true.
You can have a high slew rate and a low torque. Those are different things.
You don't need to run max torque to use high acceleration, and for things like prototype cars or retro formula cars, having the ability to spin to your set max torque that fast is an advantage.
I can have my SC2 Pro at 8 Nm/s slew rate and 50% current for 12.5 Nm of torque.

Also, as I've stated before, the theoretical max of these motors is 25 Nm and 17 Nm, but personally the practical max without clipping is actually around 20-22 Nm and 13-14 Nm. You can verify this by running your SC2 Sport at 17/17 Nm in iRacing. You will hit the clipping warning multiple times.

I agree if you will only use between 7-12 Nm of torque, the Sport is good enough, but it's a poor value due to the small price difference. Granite should've made the Sport more compelling by making it $350 cheaper than the Pro.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Yes, of course you can have high slew rate and low torque. They are indeed separate.

One can always say that one should just spend the extra. But there's a continuum in needs and spending. I prefaced my post by asking if cost was an issue.
 
Upvote 0
  • Deleted member 197115

But how many people are happily running in a lower slew-rate mode anyway since they never changed that setting?
Slew rate TD setting is meant to lower available slew rate, by default it's off i.e. at max.
Easy test for any Pro user, halve existing slew rate and see if you can tell the difference.

Some info on slew rate. It's electrical but principles is the same, how quickly motor can reach position directed by controller. The slower the reaction, the more fine details will be lost, it's like running extra smoothing filter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Upvote 0
Here we are talking specifically about the "slew rate" of torque. So, what is this, the maximum potential change in the rate at which a force is applied?

I'll have to think about this. It sounds worthy of a separate thread.
 
Upvote 0
I do think a H shifter is a nice add on in addition to the seq shifter, But I'm not in love with the current options, Other than the super expensive current king!. I would hold off as I inderstand some good options may be coming soon!


Frex just released a new alloy for 2021. I couldn't resist...
 
Upvote 0
I can have my SC2 Pro at 8 Nm/s slew rate and 50% current for 12.5 Nm of torque
Be careful, is not the same 8Nm/s to 8Nm/ms
Right now im running the Ferrari GT3 fixed with almost no filtering (1.5% servo Damping) @5Nm in TD, no need for more than 0.19Nm/ms at Slew Rate
BEST feel ever since June19, Now TD and I become ONE, jinba ittai,
More overalforce=More Damping=more slew rate
 
Upvote 0

I´d chose from the measurements and availability/shipping to your location.

It would most probably be easyer/cheaper to order in GB.

And beware, my suggestion was to show you the mounting brackets!! so you understand the mounting solution.
I can´t know if the seat will fit you.

About the power cord, depends on where you ordered and if you ordered with UK cord.
The power cords on Simucubes are easyly exchangable. If this is permitted you have to check with the vendor.

MFG Carsten
 
Upvote 0
You can figure this out for yourself:

make a list which equipment and accessories you have/ plan to add.

Maybe even do a sketch to imagine how it all will look and fit together.

Watch rig reviews and look how others mounted their peripherals.

important: plan ahead.

if your start without a shifter or plan to add a H-pattern later take that into account.
An extra part on the shelf is much less a nuissance than not having it when a new part of kit arrives.


( That is under the impression that money is no bign problem,. otherwise you´d have to prioritise.)
Personal opinion is to buy the minimum kit af the possible highest quality and upgrade later.
So better pedals now, add shifter later.

Think about where your PC will stand/ be mounted.
Where will you put the keyboard and the mouse. You don´t necessarily have a rigmounted tray for that, that even has disadvantages, My keyboard and mouse are on rigmounted holders, everytime the SC2 gets "lively" they rattle. Putting them on an independ table or small cupboard would remedy that.

MFG Carsten
 
Upvote 0
On the subject of R1 vs R2. The external antenna on the R2, how is this compared with the R1? I plan to buy a SC2 next week and have an opportunity to buy a R1, I will be using a wireless wheel. How is the wireless on R1 compared to R2?
 
Upvote 0

Latest News

Are you buying car setups?

  • Yes

  • No


Results are only viewable after voting.
Back
Top