Simple Simon say..........

[jimortality]

Firstly, this is in no way meant to be offensive for anyone called Simon. Ok, I'm not a petrol head, I've tried to learn in the last couple of years but to be honest, while ever I've got a hole in my arse, I'm not going to get it! I'm ok with that I'm good at other stuff. So what I need from you people is this please. Speed on straights and stability in corners. That's it just settings for that in simple Simon terms thank you.

 

[Mat Holloway]

Jim... That's like asking "How to date women"
Depends on the car, depends on the track.
It depends how you enter the corner, what you do while you are there and how you leave it.

I can throw a guess and say stiffen everything, but that's not really helpful.

Can you describe how you approach the average corner? How you position the car for it?

 

[jimortality]

Jim... That's like asking "How to date women"
Depends on the car, depends on the track.
It depends how you enter the corner, what you do while you are there and how you leave it.

I can throw a guess and say stiffen everything, but that's not really helpful.

Can you describe how you approach the average corner? How you position the car for it?

You must have a base set up for the 2 things I'm after for every car and track? Faster in straights what do I change? a straight is a straight whatever track.

 

[Ace King]

Lower Rear Wing = More Top End Speed, but usually sacrifice stability for more speed. This tactic works best when there are long straights to gain that extra speed and you don't give back too much of what you gained in the tactical sections. So, you need to determine how much to lower the wing without sacrificing too much time at the tactical parts of the track as it's a give and take. Your Skill level will also determine how much you will be able to lower your rear wing!

Tracks like Monza and Spa it's necessary to use lower wing in order to keep up with the faster drivers as they are using very low rear wing!

Raise Rear Wing = More Stability for very tactical tracks.

 

[Mat Holloway]

You must have a base set up for the 2 things I'm after for every car and track? Faster in straights what do I change? a straight is a straight whatever track.

Na, I don't...
Resistance slows you down. Things that affect resistance are:
Aero
Ride Height
Airflow
Toe
Caster
Differential... But most importantly, how you exit the corner leading onto the straight.

So in the most basic terms, I'd say reduce aero, toe and caster if you are only considering the straight on it's own.

When you talk about stability, I am not sure in what aspect you are looking to be more stable.
I'm guessing pitch or yaw, but it may equally be loose or pushing.

Generally it is up to the driver to manage this as the engineer has the long game in mind. You have to be careful, when you lack skill or experience, not to chase your bad habits.
For many people, they have become used to a certain style and adapt their setup for that. A car they never drove, will have diff doing this and suspension doing that before they've even done a lap.

Doing this only enforces the bad driver in you. You only become better at driving around your deficiencies instead of letting the car talk to you, telling you what it needs to be free.

I still dunno what car and track, but with the set you are using now...
Approach the turn you are having difficulty with. Brake hard and late but only for the first two downshifts. Now the car has scrubbed off the speed and is at a manageable level.

This is the point where all of your senses are heightened. Coming off the brake, the front of the car rises to its neutral position. This can be smooth or abrupt depending on suspension settings.
Your job as a driver is to negotiate the entry while keeping the car as flat as possible.

A bit more brake or a dab of throttle to settle the nose. As you enter the corner, you are constantly steering with the throttle. Do it well and you'll be on that edge of adhesion.

My guess is, this is the point where you are still braking. Instead of taking the corner like U it is more like V.

So pitch is the most important thing at this point but at mid corner, that turns into yaw.
As we exit, we now must juggle pitch and yaw, seesawing between the two to exit cleanly.
At each phase you as a driver need to identify is it pitch or yaw you are having trouble with.
Is it a setup or driving issue?

Pitch/Yaw is influenced by all the tools you have available in the car setup menu depending on which phase of the corner you are in.

So there is no simple answer for you I'm afraid Jim unless you just tighten things up a bit to see if those transition points don't settle down a bit for you.

 

[JeffL]

Don't drink before you drive

 

[Ace King]

Note: "Slow in and Fast Out" = Term used when a long straight follows which will allow you to accelerate sooner in the apex thus provides big speed benefits down the long straight.

 

[Emery]

If you're hitting the rev limiter in top gear on a straight, then you need to change the gearing (or, depending on car, increase the rev limit setting provided it doesn't mean you're going to turn the motor into shrapnel before the race is done). Changing the gearing can mean either that top gear or the final drive ratio. Handy little graph shows you whether you're doing it in the correct direction, but beware that the graph occasionally rescales when you cross some speed boundary (200 kph?).

 

[David O'Reilly]

Jim,
You attended the formal structured set up school here at RD, and the driving school.
There was required pre course study includingthe Skip Barber "Going Faster" video (on driving).
We went through set up thoroughly in a small group of 5 drivers for 2 hours or more.
There is a set up guide published. Have you read it cover to cover?

I don't want to offend but I sometimes feel that you dont concentrate on applying what you are taught before moving on to the next thing (question) on your mind. (FFB, video cards, PCars, etc etc.)
You ask a question and then rather than applying the answer, practicing and concentrating and perfecting it you seem more comfortable asking another question.


Sorry but its how it seems.

 

[jimortality]

Jim,
You attended the formal structured set up school here at RD, and the driving school.
There was required pre course study includingthe Skip Barber "Going Faster" video (on driving).
We went through set up thoroughly in a small group of 5 drivers for 2 hours or more.
There is a set up guide published. Have you read it cover to cover?

I don't want to offend but I sometimes feel that you dont concentrate on applying what you are taught before moving on to the next thing (question) on your mind. (FFB, video cards, PCars, etc etc.)
You ask a question and then rather than applying the answer, practicing and concentrating and perfecting it you seem more comfortable asking another question.


Sorry but its how it seems.

@David O'Reilly yes you're probably right David and unfortunately with my mental state, concentration is an issue. I still have all the notes from our session and I will go back over them but at the same time, whether I understand them is another matter.

 

[David O'Reilly]

No offence intended Jim and the main thing is that you have fun when you get in the car.
Most times when you get on a server you can simply say "anyone got a set for me" and job done.
Forget that set up mumbo jumbo its for nerds, just drive!!!!

 

[JeffL]

That whacky dude over at pretend racing put up a pretty good baseline setup that works for most ISI cars. I tried and it really kind of works. I've really been working on the slow in fast out, It seems slow but it keeps the car stable and really sets you up for maintaining speed and getting power out of the hole into the straight.

 

[Paul Bennett]

Early days with the sim but I find the defaults okay, the tintops are stuck to the road. Would like a few tips on the open wheelers to make a bit more stable, then I'll be happy

Edit : should have read the above posts