Sfx100 cura settings.

[Rnb1]

Hi,

Can anyone please send me a photo of the settings they used in cura to print the sfx100 3d printed parts

 

[Clover11]

It's not that simple. You will need to calibrate your printer first. Once you can do some calibration cubes within the tolerances, then you can print the parts you need. You really need to get your printer within those tolerances first and each printer can be different.

What printer are you using? Have you printed some other things successfully on it yet?

 

[dean g]

It's not that simple. You will need to calibrate your printer first. Once you can do some calibration cubes within the tolerances, then you can print the parts you need. You really need to get your printer within those tolerances first and each printer can be different.

What printer are you using? Have you printed some other things successfully on it yet?

Ive never done the cube trick and my prints turn out fine just using a feeler gauge to calibrate the height thats all i had to do.

what infill do you use %wise

 

[mechsicko]

Ive never done the cube trick and my prints turn out fine just using a feeler gauge to calibrate the height thats all i had to do.

what infill do you use %wise

Prints turning out 'fine' and prints actually fitting with precise tolerance off-shelf components like bearings or the sliders fitting in your extrusions are 2 different things. Unless you have a Prusa printer, you should start by calibrating your printer. If you get lucky somehow and a 20mm test cube actually prints at or near 20.00mm in x/y/z than you should be fine but you first need to be able to take real measurements and feeler gauges won't do that here, you need calipers

Calipers that aren't fancy but don't suck: https://www.amazon.com/Winkeyes-Conversion-Stainless-Homework-included/dp/B07Z1ZRTSW

It's a pain but well worth doing.. stock settings are usually juuust enough to make bearings/sliders not fit, at worst aren't even in the ballpark. You will need to be able to flash the settings on your printer, so first you need a 3rd party program that can do it. I use Pronterface.. lightweight, free and does what you need it to.

Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software

www.pronterface.com

Start by calibrating the extruder, everything downstream is affected by that so ensure it's proper first.

https://mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration

Next follow this guide (has links to test objects in guide..) I found 20mm cubes to be great but also used 100mm xyz thing too

https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/

Once your printer is calibrated, in Cura I used 4mm walls/top/bottom, 60% grid infill and found a normal brim wasn't enough for proper bed adhesion to keep corners form lifting so modeled a 1mm thick brim around the parts since Cura only allows .4mm thickness for that.

 

[dean g]

I dont think you get what im saying. I have never done any of that too my ender 3 and printed so far 2 lots of sfx stuff for people i know and worked perfectly.

I get you will get amazing results putting the time in but all my prints turn out as they should so never bothered

Appreciate the help though

 

[dean g]

Prints turning out 'fine' and prints actually fitting with precise tolerance off-shelf components like bearings or the sliders fitting in your extrusions are 2 different things. Unless you have a Prusa printer, you should start by calibrating your printer. If you get lucky somehow and a 20mm test cube actually prints at or near 20.00mm in x/y/z than you should be fine but you first need to be able to take real measurements and feeler gauges won't do that here, you need calipers

Calipers that aren't fancy but don't suck: https://www.amazon.com/Winkeyes-Conversion-Stainless-Homework-included/dp/B07Z1ZRTSW

It's a pain but well worth doing.. stock settings are usually juuust enough to make bearings/sliders not fit, at worst aren't even in the ballpark. You will need to be able to flash the settings on your printer, so first you need a 3rd party program that can do it. I use Pronterface.. lightweight, free and does what you need it to.

Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software

www.pronterface.com

Start by calibrating the extruder, everything downstream is affected by that so ensure it's proper first.

https://mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration

Next follow this guide (has links to test objects in guide..) I found 20mm cubes to be great but also used 100mm xyz thing too

https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/

Once your printer is calibrated, in Cura I used 4mm walls/top/bottom, 60% grid infill and found a normal brim wasn't enough for proper bed adhesion to keep corners form lifting so modeled a 1mm thick brim around the parts since Cura only allows .4mm thickness for that.

Also you say at the end you had lift up, i see many say that but mine were perfect. my ender 3 is in a sealed cabinet maybe why