Just to avoid confusion, both Peug and Chevy use exactly the same chassis and have only got micro differences in body work. I believe they even did wind tunnel testing to make sure they behave the same. In the game, they are identical in physics. We spent quite some time on the default setup and most of the time it will be a case of practising more rather than adjusting the setup. A realistic wheel setup would be 540 degrees, with between 18 and 22 degrees in the car setup. Of course always make sure there are no driving aids still on! Also get rid of any speed sensitivity in the controls menu. From the default setup,you can soften the front antirollbar, or if that isn't enough, stiffen the rear one a bit to get in general more oversteer. At higher speed circuits, reducing rear wing can also create more oversteery car. Apply these opposite of these adjustments if you want less oversteer. If you have good control over your braking, set the brake pressure to 100%, but be careful of locking the tires. Downshifting can be pretty early, which real drivers do in these cars to help them slow down. The engine is pretty durable so there is a good chance it can survive some abuse. It is not important to get identical inner / middle / outer temperatures. Negative camber is more important, and tire temperatures between 75 and 110 are the best for grip. Camber differences between front and rear are also subtle understeer / oversteer adjustments; typically more negative camber creates a bit more cornering grip, but at the rear too much does harm traction, although not by a huge amount. Finally ride heights are important as the tracks are quite bumpy and you don't want to hit the ground too often. Just as important is how ride heights change the downforce! When the front is low to the ground, more downforce sits on the front of the car. That means that lowering the rear, or raising the front, moves the downforce to the back of the car, adding stability (or understeer) at higher speeds. The opposite is also true, a low front and high rear move the aero forwards, creating a less stable or more oversteery car at high speeds. Softer springs increase the brake 'dive' and acceleration 'lean' of the car, which also changes the front and rear ride heights, so a softer setup might handle bumps better, but it will move the downforce about somewhat during the phases of braking / corner entry / corner exit. A stiffer car has less ride height fluctuations and will be more stable with downforce, but bumps could cause the car to bounce more, which might upset the rideheights (and downforce / balance) more than a softer setup! Most of all, be smooth with your driving. You go on the brakes hard, then slowly come off the brake as you turn into a corner. Another tip could be to look at the SRT videos, and then don't drive like that! No throttle dabs under braking, no brake modulation, just on hard, then slowly off. Remember, the slower and smoother you are with the car, the faster it goes!