Setup discussion (split topic)

M

Mehmet Arslan

  • Mehmet Arslan

Ramon, are u from Syncro Racing? Because i saw the same setup guide a very long time ago, but it has syncro racing on it and its exactly the same, only the first pictures are different, but after that its all the same.

If u are the same guy then hats off mate :).
 
Thanks! This is what I was looking for! Most of the theory I already know but it's very helpfull to have this guide about how the car's behaving and what to do about it! especially the dif and shock settings I have trouble with..
Again thanks!:thumb:
 
Hi! Thanks again for the guide!

I have a few suggestions for version 1.1 :)

1. Could you explain what does "understeering/oversteering" means, and how under/oversteering is connected with tire temperatures? You explain even simpler terms such as "break pressure".

2. Could you explain what exactly should be done to correct the middle tire temperatures? It looks like if I have 80 81 87 readouts on my front left tire (81 is too close to 80), the pressure should be increased. If I have 80 86 87 readouts (86 is too close to 87), the pressure should be decreased.

3. You said that the optimal tire temperature was 85-95 degrees. What to do if tire temperatures are out of this range? Looks like on FWD cars the differential lock setting affects the temperatures of front tires - the higher the lock, the hotter. Is it ok if on FWD Seat my front tires are too hot (95-105), and rear tires are too cold (65-75)?

4. Regarding the final gear tuning, I found that there are two possible setups: 1) number 6 on the tachometer turns red just before the end of the longest straight line, but the rev limit is not reached 2) the engine gets to rev limit some time before the end of the line... The second setup, when the rev limiter "clicks" one or two times before I press brake seems to be useful sometimes.

5. Regarding the middle gear tuning - sometimes it is advantageous to change gear ratio to avoid a nasty gear shift just in the middle of a turn. And sometimes it's useful to change gear ratios so you have maximal torque when you exit a turn.

Finally, I found several grammatically strange places in the text. English is not my native language, so I'm a poor proof-reader, so feel free to ignore the "suggestions" above if they are incorrect.

should "continues" in "Try to do 3-5 continues laps within 0.5 second of each other" be "continuous"?

"Gear box (again because you may adjusted your Wing which affects top speed)" - should it be "may have adjusted"?

"This is personally for every driver." - should it be "personal"?

"which is translated from your input (brake pedal) to the actually brakes" - should it be "actual"?

"The amount of fuel greatly affects car weight, right height" - should it be "ride height"?

"It is best when the center tire temperature" - should it be "central"?

"especially if you own a very precise wheel like the Momo Force of the G25." - should it be "the Momo Force or the G25"?

"Caster means how much (degrees) a tire leans forwards or back at the top of the wheel" - should it be "forward or backward"?

"Don’t changes too much toe" - should it be "Don't change toe too much"?
 
English teacher :D?

Thanks for the veetbek ehm feedback!

1. Could you explain what does "understeering/oversteering" means, and how under/oversteering is connected with tire temperatures? You explain even simpler terms such as "break pressure".

Understeering: the car slides over the front tyres in the corner, resulting in grip loss and your car wants to drive straight ahead in the corner (scary!)

Oversteer: the rear end of the car wants to overtake the front (freakin awesome :D)
 
The Top Gear Guide to Under & Oversteer

Understeer
You go into a corner and the car doesn't turn, you go straight on hit a tree and die

Oversteer
You go into a corner, the back steps out, you go backwards into a tree and die

Oversteer is better because you don't see the tree that kills you :D
 
The guide is very nice, thx for uploading it!

However, in my experience some things are different. Especially the tire pressures: I use symmetrical values, cause when I tried (and I tried a lot of times) assymetrical values, it resulted in worse laptimes. Maybe it's dependant on track, cause if you have only little differences it's better to leave it symmetrical. Or it's just a personal thing, I don't know:)

And I must say that the anti roll bar setting is a much more tricky thing. Sometimes I even raise the anti roll bar to have more grip. It's a very similar thing to the slow bump/reboud settings. If you have too high values you lose grip, and if you have too low values, you lose grip too. You must try to find the optimal setting. (not so much hard, you need only a few laps to do that)

This is only my experience, but it's maybe useful for some people:)
 
  • Mark Bolter

this has really been thought out very well. presented with clear advice to how components work.
very nice
 
  • Mark Bolter

someone mentioned tyre tempretures,regarding the middle of a tyre.
it's all to do with the correct pressure,if the tyre has a high pressure then the middle part of the tyre will be contacting the road more,thus heating up center of tyre
under inflation will cause the tyre to bulge out at the inner and outer edge,this will cause the sides to heat up quicker.

you then have the suspension to take into account in regards to the toe and camber on the front.

if a negative camber is setup then the inner edge of the tyre will heat up,and the outer egde of tyre if a positive camber.

positive toe:tyre will heat up outer edge
negative toe:tyre will heat up inner edge

you need to do a couple of laps to see what the tempretures are and adjust as necessary.pretty tricky stuff but with abit of practice you'll see that the tyres will last alot longer.
 
  • Tim Ross

ahaaa , so thats why i'm completely losing it when sticking my footdown going out of corners with any RWD!! only joking cheers for the guide.. i'll step away from the Honda Accord eventually.
 

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