Season 14 Race 3 Bahrain - Setup Thread

Did you look at your peak brake temperatures, what do they show for you?

I would say about 700°C maximum, not sure.Very important tip for the duct, again: with MDP, 20% closed brake duct and brake engine on 1 front-left brake went after 40 minutes :thumbsup:
Time laps were good enough to race with that though...and so the tire wear not very high...:poop:

When I said 29°C it was of course the track temperature.And I'm not worry for Austria it should be the same as Sakhir.
 
You set the absolute maximum downforce (I saw that in China with your top speed about 278 km/h on the backstraight when I could go to 292 !), and so you litterally absorb all your tire energy very quickly.
I don't agree this. From my experience is you use more downforce you SAVE tyres because you get less slipping. What wear the tyre is slipping not have more load on it. I always watch the slipping indicator in races and try not to get it to full red. That way i can easily do a 1 stopper and still have good tyres for decent lap times at the end of a stint. :thumbsup:
 
From my experience is you use more downforce you SAVE tyres because you get less slipping.

Yes effectively but only if you are as fast as before.But just because more downforce provides you to be faster in the corners, at the end the tire wear is higher than before.

How would you explain that David Turnbull had a bad tire wear at Shanghai, yet he carried full downforce ! Usually when we add downforce it's not to save the tires, but to be faster, don't be wrong.

That way i can easily do a 1 stopper and still have good tyres for decent lap times at the end of a stint. :thumbsup:

I also did a 1 stop race in shanghai, but again my sector 1 and 2 times (where aero is recommanded) were pretty poor compared to the 3rd (where I was 2nd best).
 
But just because more downforce provides you to be faster in the corners, at the end the tire wear is higher than before.
Well i don't have a lot of experience in the FR3.5 but in the F1_1992, the more wing i put the more i can push hard and save the tyres. Tyre temp raise very fast when they are slipping, so less downforce = more slipping = more tyre wear, for me anyway, maybe its different for your driving style... i don't know.

How would you explain that David Turnbull had a bad tire wear at Shanghai, yet he carried full downforce.
I'd explain that because he pushed really hard without bothering about tyres wear maybe?:) Like he said, his driving style is to enter corner very fast and let the car understeer to slow him down to the apex, that's hard on tyres. I was using David setup at shanghai. even though i was not the fastest, If i pushed as hard as i can in T1 and T13 from the early laps, i would not be able to do only 1 stop.
 
I'd explain that because he pushed really hard without bothering about tyres wear maybe?:)

Possible indeed, so the driving style as quite an influence we're agree, and like you say it depends what mod you play.

So your time lap is very impressive David, I can't be easily under 1.41 personnally :notworthy:

Like he said, his driving style is to enter corner very fast and let the car understeer to slow him down to the apex

It's what we can see in his video above, but I want to say that by doing that you agree that you brake very early ? I know that feeling 'cause I had the very same driving style before (especially when I started rFactor with rF1).
I suggest you one thing David: use the understeer's effect of the brake rather than the tir's one to turn on the corner, and so braking later.

If you do that you can gain 0.5s on your hotlap, I'm sure !!
 
good discussion guys, helps everybody in the league if the info keeps coming :thumbsup:

regards my tyre wear at china, i'm now thinking it was more my wheel settings than my setup, at melbourne and sepang i had normal wear, at bahrain its normal wear too, the only diffrence is id raced china with 380 degrees steering so wouldve been sliding more than usual at turn in.

your suggestion nicolas about using the brake to control understeer is good but its one thing im not completely comfortable with yet in rf2 is braking, it will come in time i suppose but right now i'm just happy if i dont lock up 6 times per lap.
 
Ok David, you have the time to improve on rF2, after all you and some others are newbie (not injurous !!) on that game.And yes don't forget that Shanghai is hard on front tires, very hard, so Bahrain, Monaco, Austria etc will be much easier for you and those who struggle with tire wear.
 
whats the brakeengine setting? :)
The engine brake map setting controls how agressively the engine brakes the car when downshifting. #1 is the most aggressive so you have to be aware not to lock the rear wheels with too fast downshifts especially the lowest 2 gears.
You can think of the higher numbers like downshifting your mums 1.4 petrol for slowing the car and #1 like downshifting a tractor engine. If you are using a lot of engine braking you will normally have the brake balance slightly more forwards*.
*Trivia, Morgan Morand uses this technique.

When I've heard the sky f1 commentators about China, they always stressed the importance of letting the diff setting make a over-steering balance. On power out of corners I can see how that is made, but on corner entry?
Summary: Less lock more turn, more lock less turn.
Details.
In essense the more locked the diff the more it wants to go straight. So you use lock to eradicate oversteer. Power side deals with accelleration (turn exit) If its over steering on exit add lock, understeering lower lock.
Coast side deals with braking. If its over steering on entry add lock, understeering lower lock. The tyre wear connection is that while the diff is trying to make it go straight the front tyres are trying to make it turn. So the more open the diff (lower lock number) the less stress on the front tyres.
So less coast diff lock on turn entry will save front tyres and also allow you to get to the apex easier.
Excessive diff lock will impact you pace most when tyre wear kicks in. The fronts will give up the fight and the diff will get its way and make you go straighter.
Too little diff lock will hurt you on worn tyres too but mainly on power side as the rears lose their grip you will get oversteer moments.
In real F1 they will risk a lower diiff lock in quali (low fuel fresh tyres). Its set in cockpit and not part of parc ferme.

In Bahrain Turns 12 and 13 are a lovely example.
Lock on the power side will control the climb up T12. Too little and you will oversteer, too much and you will hurt the front left.
Lock on the coast side will control entry to T13 (as will getting off the brakes so the fronts can rotate.)Too much and you will fight to get apex, too little and you will over rotate.


Preload: Controls how early the lock settings kick in or how long the diff is free. A low preload number they kick in late and hard, high number they kick in early and gradual.
If between 2 numbers of diff lock you can change the pre load first to see if it works.

Compromise:
The diff probably will not be perfect for all corners. Perfect for one may be too litle or too much for another. You need to decide which one is "the money shot" in your race. Where will you gain or lose most if its not correct for that corner.
Edit:
I guess its fair to say that as you become more competent with the car and all the other set up options the less you will need to lean on the diff for control. Also other changes you make might influence your diff settings. If you for example add some rear wing or find more rear stability through other settings (springs/dampers) you may well find you can lower diff lock.

NB all this advice is "all other things being equal" and deals with diff in isolation. There are many other things that will contribute to turn in.
 
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FYI guys I'm using Davids with few tweeks as not had much practise I'll prob stick with it for race will upload later so slight more choice.

My pb last night was set with 27/55 wing I was planning on using lower wing this race but I think starting to notice what Steeve was saying about more down force, less sliding ,better wear, better grip, faster pace etc
Only really done short stints but wear looks good and even.
Will be on tonight for some practise.
 
Coast side deals with braking.

In braking and, I'm quite sure, also for free-wheel ! Anyway, I think that setting is very important though it doesn't seem at first sight.The feeling when release the throttle can be a nightmare for someone if the car suddenly turn like hell in a corner (or doesn't want to !).

#1 is the most aggressive

There is also a #0 setting in the brake engine, which provides a stronger brake engine power thant #1 ! :thumbsup:
 
I will run fully open, my braking is better with that.
Optimum brake temp for this car is 350-600 deg.(edit, it starts to lose a lot of retardation at above 800 deg)
I was getting up to 900deg with 20% closed.
 

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