Replace Fanatec FFB motor?

[Marcus Meyrick]

Chaps,
I have recently had an issue with my PWTS wheel and Fanatec have advised me that they will replace it.

The issue is shown in the following vid:

It is very notchy now instead of smooth whist turning. I suspect it is either the Belt, the Motor or the PCB. Having never opened my wheel how realistic is it to change either the motor or the PCB?

 

[GTFREAK]

Well, realistically, if you've never done it before I'd say it's not that hard. If you are mechanically inclined you shouldn't have any issues. Just make sure you remember where all the screws go when you put it back together again. It looks as if one of the motors has had it. I can't hear much except the kids in the background

I do not remember the deconstruction process offhand, but I'm sure there are guides out there. Is Fanatec sending you a new motor or do you have to send the wheel to them?

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

Hi GTFREAK,
cheers for the reply. Fanatec are actually replacing the wheel in totality with a GT" but they have advised that i don't need to send it back as it is deffo broken.. However i am waiting until i get the new wheel just to make sure that that is the case..

Looking on the google/youtube i saw the following video which, whilst not a force feedback wheel is a wheel (for a bicycle) that runs on a DC motor and exhibits the same symptoms.

I feel quite happy now that it is the FFB motor gone so i just need to source a replacement.. however this is more difficult than it seems as i can't find the exact specs of the motor or a source for something close in the UK.

I have several posts up on Radio Control Car forums looking for assistance but not sure if that will be forthcoming.

Cheers
Meurig.

 

[Nigel Atkins]

Hiya m8, the FFB motor is a Mabuchi RS 550.

Let me know if your guna change it and i`ll tell you how to get the wheel cover off without taking the wheel off

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

Cheers Nigel.
Some long old googling let me know it's a Mabuchi RS 550 but apparently there are several different types of RS 550 with different voltages and "windings" and other such stuff that is only findable with the full model number of the RS 550 used..

Thats what i really need. Hopefully it will be written on the motor itself because i can just get it from there once my new wheel turns up if all else fails.

 

[Alexander Rhodes]

It's just a PWM DC motor, windings shouldn't be too hard to find out about, good quality motors have it stamped on the housing, poor quality ones you'll have to figure out by the torque rating (windings affect torque output, and power used, thats pretty much all). You can find these in places that do PCB components or robot parts, or rc goods etc. In the UK you could try Farnell, Maplins, hobby stores and others like those. Alternatively, you could try a refurbish, it's a brushed motor and probably just needs a clean with alchohol, and maybe new brushes.

Or even better, just get 2 brushless PWM DC motors with around the same torque and pop them in, it'll be stronger and last longer, but be carefull with amp and voltage, it needs to be about the same, windings are not worth worrying about (unless your racing RC cars lol)

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

It's just a PWM DC motor, windings shouldn't be too hard to find out about, good quality motors have it stamped on the housing, poor quality ones you'll have to figure out by the torque rating (windings affect torque output, and power used, thats pretty much all). You can find these in places that do PCB components or robot parts, or rc goods etc. In the UK you could try Farnell, Maplins, hobby stores and others like those. Alternatively, you could try a refurbish, it's a brushed motor and probably just needs a clean with alchohol, and maybe new brushes.

Or even better, just get 2 brushless PWM DC motors with around the same torque and pop them in, it'll be stronger and last longer, but be carefull with amp and voltage, it needs to be about the same, windings are not worth worrying about (unless your racing RC cars lol)

Brilliant, cheers Alexander.. this is good news if i can put in a different type of motor.

 

[Alexander Rhodes]

as long as it's DC, PWM and amp and voltage are the same, it's essentially the same motor, as they all work in exactly the same way. Just make sure it's PWM, not all of them state that, and if it's not, it'll break itself lol.

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

Ok m8.. not a problem.. as long as you tell me what PWM means

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

Hi chaps

Me again.. I have managed to get the following number from th motor once i got it out of it's housing.



RS-555PH-22130



Is there a way to use that to get an exact match for what i need? The following is from Mabachi's website



R-Round

S- Carbon Brushes

5- Armature diameter

5- Magnet size/Housing length

5- 5 poles

P- Anisotropic magnet or rare earth magnet

H- Particular specification (whether it has a cooling fan etc)

22- Wire diameter

130- number of turns of armature windings per slot



Cheers again chaps.

 

[Alexander Rhodes]

Yeah that will get you an exact match, but remember, Mabachi are not to great on quality, they're a little like the Thrustmaster of the motor world lol, any RC forum will tell you that much.

If you can get one of a different brand, then it would definitely save any trouble down the line. Also, PWM means pulse width modulation. It's how the IC tells the motor which way to turn, at what strength and how far to go. The alternative to PWM is a simple on or off motor, which would just not work.

 

[Jim Cole]

heheh, I used to use the RS 550's when I raced Radio Controlled cars. They were the drive motor. I have rebuilt them and redid the windings, cut brushes to affect how they function etc. If you are even slightly mechanically inclined you should be able to look at the brushes and make sure they are ok, and you should be able to take the end cap off to be sure that the contact area on the armature is clean. If it is dirty, take a pencil eraser and clean it to be shiny copper and then reassemble. The windings themselves hardly ever are the issue. You should be able to get replacement brushes from most hobby stores that handle RC electric cars such as the Associated RC10 car.

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

I think after 2 solid days of googling and emails being sent i may have to give up on this.



I can find plenty of RS 550 and RS 555 motors but none of them with dual shafts as required for my use. Unless anyone can point me toward somewhere i may have missed i think i will have to call it a day on this.



Thanks for all the assistance chaps.



Marcus.

 

[Jim Cole]

By dual shafts do you mean that the armature shaft exits the case on both ends?

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

By dual shafts do you mean that the armature shaft exits the case on both ends?

Yep.. as demonstrated by this piccieof the actual motor.

 

[Jim Cole]

Then try this one
http://www.professormotor.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=HRHM1

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

Cheers Jim, but i think that one may be a slot car motor and is quite small compared to the one tha came out.. although i can't tell exactly because of the lack of anything giving scale.

However, i have come across something. In my back room i have my backup Logitech DFP... if i can get the PWTS working then i will have no need for a backup. Also, whilst i was waiting for my GT wheel to arrive i tried to use it and frankly decided to pack it away rather than use it as it was so poor when compared to my fanatec wheel.. Apparently it uses an equivalent of a dual shaft Mabuchi 550 motor... teh same as the fanatec. Should i chance ripping it apart and cannibalising it for it's motor?

What say you petrolheads?

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

This is the PDF spec sheet of the DFP motor (interestingly, it also does the g25).

http://psykoschtroumpf.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/logitech-g25-motor-hc685lg-011.pdf

What do you reckon.. close enough?

 

[Alexander Rhodes]

Should be, as I say, as long as the motor is PWM, it'll do the job, just buy 2 motors with the same torque output and you'll be fine.

I think the DFP/G25 motor is weaker than the Mabuchi (although better quality) so you'd have 1 motor stronger than the other, causing the weaker motor to just burn out.

Why does it need to have a long dual exit shaft anyway? If it isn't connected to anything, then forget that detail.

2 motors, equal torque, equal power/amp draw, job done. It really is that simple, it's only a motor, not an engine, lol!

 

[Marcus Meyrick]

The front end is connected to the belt and the rear end is connected to the optical sensor so the dual shaft is pretty much required, however i take your point about the torque and power/amdpdraw..

However the problem is now solved.. I did the logical thing and went back to Fanatec, asked if they could supply anything and they did me a very reasonable deal on a complete new base for a PWTS.. all's well that ends well..