FM4 RD FM League S1

[Andrew Skinner]

right then Welcome to the OFFICAL RD FORZA 3 LEAGUE
this league is for licenced members olny:
this will follow offical rd rules

note most drivers regestered declared an intrest in this through the intrest thread

Races to take place Wednesdays 7pm for 7:30 race GMT/BST
Season to start on thursday 7th july

points
1st 10
2nd 8
3rd 6
4th 5
5th 4
6th 3
7th 2
8th 1
Fastest lap 3

Race Calander
Round 1 renualt clio Silverstone club 25 laps, Renualt clio v6, NO UPGRADES ALLOWED
Round 2 Porsche 911 Sebring club 20 laps, must be class A may be upgraded
Round 3 Lemans Prototypes Lemans Circuit da la Sarthe 2 hours R1 Class
Round 4 Touring cars race 1 Barcalona club 15 laps Limited to british touring cars, PI limit 500 Chevrolet Cruze LT Ford Focus, Honda Civic (if you cant find it use type r), focus st, bmw 320si, toyta avensis, vaxhuall vectra, seat leon, audi a4 ang vw golf
Round 4 touring cars race 2 Barcalona club 30 laps Limited to british touring cars PI limit 500 Chevrolet Cruze LT Ford Focus, Honda Civic (if you cant find it use type r), focus st, bmw 320si, toyta avensis, vaxhuall vectra, seat leon, audi a4 ang vw golf
Round 5 A class lemans buggati 21 laps ANY CAR NO UPGRADES ALLOWED
Round 6 lemans GT R2 suzuka 30 laps limited to R2 class Aston martins or corvets
Round 7 lemans GT R3 twin ring Motegi 28 laps Limited to R3 porches ferraris and BMW
Round 8 dodge viper cup Road America 39 laps Limited to Dodge viper srt10 acr s class
Round 9 ford focus cup Silverstone international 20 laps limited to ford focus and st model limited to E class
Round 10 lemans prototypes Sebring 2 hours Limited to r1 class
Round 11 Impretza vs Evo 400pi road alanta 25 laps Limited to Evo 8 up and impretza 2008 onwards upgrades allowed up to 400pi
Round 12 Point to point A class nubergring limited to class A
Round 13 multi class f and b Bugatti curcit 10 laps per race limited to f and b class

Please use the following template
Name on RD:
Gamertag:
Race Colours: (Pick 2 colours, and a 3rd option colour)
Race Number: (No higher than 99)

So far:
Name on RD: Dylan Hember
Gamertag: H3MB3RD
Race Colours: Black, Yellow, White
Race Number: 7

Name on RD: Andrew Skinner
Gamertag: Andtidus
Race Colours: Black, Green, Red
Race Number: 22

Name on RD: Matt Smaith
Gamertag: II No Scope45 I
Race Colours: Red, Yellow, Blue
Race Number: 45

Name: Marcel Campenaar
Tag: DutchFLC
Colours: Red/white/blue
Number: 69

Name-Jack Evans
Tag-TheEvans7
Colours-Red, Silver, White
Number-6

Name Chris Bell
Tag Bellmond570
Colours Green/Red/Blue
Number 76

Name: Dan Smith
Tag: MysticViibrosis
Colours: Purple/White/Black
Number: 23


Name on RDaul Armstrong
Gamertag:WooWaa04
Race Colours: (Black/white/Blue)
Race Number: (04)

 

[Dan Smith]

yeah, its good that we get points for fastest lap too, any problems can still mean good points!!

 

[Dan Smith]

I've just added a tyre tuning guide to the facebook group if your a member if not i'll stick it on here in a sec. All info is taken from the official Forza guide.

 

[Dan Smith]

PRO TIP ! Tire Heating Cause and Effect


When you see inconsistencies in overall tire heating, use the following information to improve tire performance.

PEAK GRIP IS AT 32 PSI BUT ANYTHING BETWEEN 30-34 PSI SHOULD BE OK


PROBLEM - Center hotter than edges
REASON - Tire pressure too high
SOLVED - Reduce 1 psi for each 5°F difference

PROBLEM - Edges hotter than center
REASON - Tire pressure too low
SOLVED - Add 1 psi for each 5°F difference

PROBLEM - Inner edge hotter than outer
REASON - Too much negative camber
SOLVED - Decrease negative camber

PROBLEM - Outer edge hotter than inner
REASON - Not enough negative camber or too much toe-in
SOLVED - Increase negative camber or decrease toe-in

PROBLEM - Tire below peak temperature range
REASON - Tire pressure too high, tire too wide, or springs/sway bars too soft at that axle
SOLVED - Decrease tire pressure, reduce tire width, or stiffen up springs and sway bars on that axle

PROBLEM - Tire above peak temperature range
REASON - Tire pressure too low, tire too narrow, or springs/sway bars too stiff at that axle
SOLVED - Increase tire pressure, increase tire width, or soften up springs and sway bars on that axle

PROBLEM - Front tires hotter than rear
REASON - Car is understeering (pushing). Too much front spring/sway bar, not enough rear spring/sway bar, front pressure too low, rear pressure too high, front tires too narrow, rear tires too wide.
SOLVED - Soften up front spring and sway bar, stiffen up rear spring and sway bar, increase front pressure, or decrease rear pressure

PROBLEM - Rear tires hotter than front
REASON - Car is oversteering (loose). Too much rear spring/sway bar, not enough front spring/sway bar, rear pressure too low, front pressure
too high, rear tires too narrow, front tires too wide
SOLVED - Soften up rear spring and sway bar, stiffen up front spring and sway bar, increase rear pressure, decrease front pressure

 

[Dylan Hember]

What time is the race?

 

[Dan Smith]

done all the other tuning guides on facebook. may put them on here or create a new thread cus theres quite a lot of info.

 

[Dan Smith]

RD Forza League - Tuning Guide

This guide has been taken from the Official Forza 3 Guide by primagames.com

Hopefully some of you will be able to make use of this for your own setups, maybe you can make some extra cash from your storefront or just beat everyone else with your perfect setup.

Any questions let me know and i'll try and answer them asap.

Also feel free to add to this, anything you think may help is welcome!!

Small Index.. \/\/\/

TYRES..
POST #2

GEARS..
POST #3

ALIGNMENT..
POST #4

ANTI-ROLL BARS..
POST #5

SPRINGS..
POST #6

DAMPING..
POST #7

AERO..
POST #8

BRAKING..
POST #9

DIFFERENTIAL..
POST #10


Enjoy! :tongue:

 

[Dan Smith]

TYRES...


PRO TIP ! Tire Heating Cause and Effect


When you see inconsistencies in overall tire heating, use the following information to improve tire performance.


PROBLEM - Center hotter than edges
REASON - Tire pressure too high
SOLVED - Reduce 1 psi for each 5°F difference

PROBLEM - Edges hotter than center
REASON - Tire pressure too low
SOLVED - Add 1 psi for each 5°F difference

PROBLEM - Inner edge hotter than outer
REASON - Too much negative camber
SOLVED - Decrease negative camber

PROBLEM - Outer edge hotter than inner
REASON - Not enough negative camber or too much toe-in
SOLVED - Increase negative camber or decrease toe-in

PROBLEM - Tire below peak temperature range
REASON - Tire pressure too high, tire too wide, or springs/sway bars too soft at that axle
SOLVED - Decrease tire pressure, reduce tire width, or stiffen up springs and sway bars on that axle

PROBLEM - Tire above peak temperature range
REASON - Tire pressure too low, tire too narrow, or springs/sway bars too stiff at that axle
SOLVED - Increase tire pressure, increase tire width, or soften up springs and sway bars on that axle

PROBLEM - Front tires hotter than rear
REASON - Car is understeering (pushing). Too much front spring/sway bar, not enough rear spring/sway bar, front pressure too low, rear pressure too high, front tires too narrow, rear tires too wide.
SOLVED - Soften up front spring and sway bar, stiffen up rear spring and sway bar, increase front pressure, or decrease rear pressure

PROBLEM - Rear tires hotter than front
REASON - Car is oversteering (loose). Too much rear spring/sway bar, not enough front spring/sway bar, rear pressure too low, front pressure too high, rear tires too narrow, front tires too wide.
SOLVED - Soften up rear spring and sway bar, stiffen up front spring and sway bar, increase rear pressure, decrease front pressure

​

 

[Dan Smith]

GEARS...


On short tracks, you can easily adjust your entire gearing toward acceleration using the final drive ratio slider. If you can’t get anywhere near your car’s top speed on a track, you probably need to tune your drive ratio more toward acceleration.

On longer tracks where top speed is more of a focus, get the most out of your gear ratio by using all available rpm. Adjust the slider so the top of the last gear bar just touches the graph’s top right edge. Note your gear ratio on the display, benchmark, and keep adjusting it slightly while going back and forth to the Benchmark screen. When you find your maximum top speed, note the gear ratio and save your setup for maximum top speed.

Leave individual gear-ratio adjustments to the experts. Sound knowledge and specific track-biased objectives are required to balance individual gears, so you can leave these alone for the most part.

Adjusting the final drive ratio (the ratio of the ring and pinion gears in the differential) affects acceleration and top speed by scaling the ratios of all the gears in the gearbox.

Choosing the right ratio matches your engine’s power and torque to the circuit on which you’re racing. To determine the final drive ratio, divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear. A ring gear with 41 teeth and a pinion gear with 10 teeth yields a ratio of 4.10:1, so the driveshaft rotates 4.1 times for each turn of the wheels. A higher ratio results in higher acceleration at the expense of top speed, while a lower ratio sacrifices acceleration for speed in each gear. A lower ratio gives better top speed and fuel economy.

PRO TIP ! Gear Ratio Adjustments


Stick with adjusting the final drive ratio rather than tweaking individual gears - it’s the best way for most players to keep the gearbox balanced, as very small unbalanced changes to individual gears can dramatically decrease your car’s performance.

 

[Dan Smith]

ALIGNMENT...


CAMBER.....

PRO TIP ! To Camber or Not to Camber

A track is usually dominantly left-turning or right-turning. The outside tires do most of the work, endure the most stress, and provide most of the friction for cornering.

Tune camber so the front and rear tires on the dominant side stand up straight (0 degrees camber) in the middle of a turn, thereby maximizing their available grip.

This is no easy feat, fearless driver; in fact, it could be the single most involved tuning process in racing, both real world and in the game. The track-specific process involves reviewing telemetry
from a race and taking notes on the camber in the outside wheels at the apex of every turn on the track. It’s very important to note here that in the Tuning screen, camber is measured relative to the car; but in the race telemetry screen, the camber is measured in relation to the varying
track surface.

You must consider all the track’s turns and make some educated guesses as to how much to adjust your car’s camber. Make very small but balanced changes between front and rear, then return to the same track for a test run to see if your tires are closer to 0 degrees camber while going through their turns.

The ease with which you accomplish this 0 camber in all turns is largely determined by the variation between all the turns on the track. The flatter and more constant radius the collection of turns are, the easier it is to adjust for. On complex tracks with varying elevations, expect a tough fight to get this adjustment just right.



PRO TIP ! Adjusting Negative Camber

Generally, the more tight and windy a track, the more negative camber you should have. Adjust the slider on both front and rear camber more to the left—but only so far as to keep your tires heating evenly to achieve their peak grip.


TOE.....

Toe (the inward or outward angle of the wheels) is another unforgiving alignment setting. Default settings are okay, but they might need some fine-tuning in small increments to achieve their optimal levels.

On winding tracks with tight turns, adjust toe to slightly more negative on both front and rear. On straighter tracks, adjust for slight toe-out, but this decreases your turn-in response. Put more simply, it’s harder to steer with more toe-out, but your car is more stable on the straights.

Adjust toe to sharpen turn-in response (the transition between driving straight ahead and turning). Toe-in brings the front of the tires closer together (negative toe) than the backs. This increases stability but reduces turn-in response. Toe-out (positive toe) brings the backs of the tires closer together than the fronts. This increases turn-in response but decreases stability. Avoid extremes, because excessive toe-in or toe-out can wear tires very quickly.

FRONT CASTER.....

Adjust caster in degree increments much like camber and toe; however, positive caster is the dominant realm by default. You can’t have negative caster—+1 degree is the closest you can get to 0.

“Caster” refers to the forward angle of the suspension’s geometry (straight up and down or how much it leans forward). Adjusting the caster (the forward or rearward angle of the steering axis) enhances straight-line drivability. With positive caster, the steering axis is inclined rearward.

Because negative camber increases as the suspension compresses and/or the tires move through the steering lock, increasing positive caster lets you run less negative camber. This results in a straight-up tire while driving straight ahead (good for acceleration and braking) but provides a desirable amount of negative camber while cornering.

PRO TIP ! Adjusting Caster

More positive caster means that when you turn the steering wheel, the wheels increase their camber at a greater rate, making the car turn more.

 

[Dan Smith]

ANTI-ROLL BARS...


Generally you want stiffer bars to control your car’s detrimental body sway during a race; don’t hesitate to adjust the slider far to the right on both front and rear bars. However, if your inside tires come off the ground during a hard corner, your bars are too stiff, so retune and soften them up slightly to avoid loss of contact with the track.

Antiroll bars (also called “antisway bars”) provide extra stability when cornering. They control unwanted body movement and balance understeer and oversteer in steady-state cornering (for example, in the middle of a sweeping turn). When you turn left or right, the car body tends to roll in the opposite direction. By tying the left and right sides of the suspension together, antisway bars make the car ride more level, keeping one side from rolling or swaying more than the other.

Decreasing front antiroll stiffness reduces understeer. Increasing front antiroll stiffness increases understeer, but excessive antiroll stiffness can make the inside tires lift off the ground during hard cornering. The balance of front and rear antiroll stiffness affects the balance between understeer and oversteer.

PRO TIP ! Why Antiroll Bars?

These torsion bars limit unwanted body movement and therefore make your car handle significantly better. The difference between front and rear stiffness is often the best way to correct (and balance) your car’s understeer/oversteer problems.

 

[Dan Smith]

​SPRINGS...


Spring stiffness is measured in how much force is required to compress a spring one inch. The difference between soft and stiff springs could be approximately 700 lb per inch; that means that a soft suspension could have up to 700 lb of its own car weight causing it to bob up and down as it travels over rough track. A soft suspension that bobs up and down and allows the car body to sway back and forth during braking and acceleration or from side to side while turning limits a car’s performance dramatically. The more you can limit this movement across the board, the better.

Don’t set your suspension too stiff if you like to drive over the curbs on the inside of turns—stiff suspensions don’t react well to those kinds of bumps and tend to slow your car down.

Spring stiffness controls how the car’s weight is transferred under acceleration, braking, and cornering. Stiffer front springs transfer more weight, but too much can cause the tires to lose traction under heavy load. Softening the front springs in relation to the rear increases front grip and reduces understeer, but too much can make the car bottom out under heavy braking. Increasing the front springs’ stiffness in relation to the rear can reduce oversteer, but too much can cause the car to plow through turns.

PRO TIP ! Spring Stiffness

Stiffer springs mean better responsiveness and higher overall handling, as it increases the car’s ability to resist unwanted body and suspension movement. However, this general rule of thumb is for flat tracks only; you need a softer suspension for tracks with uneven surfaces or a higher degree of vertical change (i.e., Mugello). Run the softest suspension possible while not hitting the bump stops once during a race. These adjustments are highly track-specific.

RIDE HEIGHT.....

Ride height is measured in inches above the ground - lower is almost always better. If you’re racing a rough track, try raising your height a half inch at a time to avoid scraping the car’s bottom and consequently losing speed. Ride height determines your car’s ground clearance and center of gravity. Lowering ride height lowers the center of gravity, which improves cornering; but lowering it too far can cause bottoming out and sudden loss of control. Generally you should lower your ride height as much as possible without bottoming out.

PRO TIP ! Lower Than a Snake’s Belly

In general, lower your ride height to as low to the ground as possible. But beware: the lower you go, the more you limit the travel in your suspension. On bumpy tracks this could lead to bottoming out and losing control.

 

[Dan Smith]

DAMPING...


Tuning your car’s damping improves handling by increasing grip. Stiffening front damping adds grip at the rear. Damping controls the suspension’s rate of travel in two directions.

Bump Stiffness.....

Bump stiffness is measured numerically; the value indicates how resistant the suspension is to movement. Bump damping is important for your suspension to handle properly; if you adjust it to the far right, your car performs as if it had no shocks. Bump damping controls the rate of compression as the suspension goes up into the wheel wells. Increasing front bump damping stiffness increases transitional understeer, but excessive bump damping can make a car skittish over rough surfaces. Decreasing front bump damping stiffness increases transitional oversteer. Bump damping should be 50 to 75 percent as stiff as rebound damping to maintain stability during weight transfer when cornering. Experiment by increasing bump stiffness to find your car’s best damping ratio.

PRO TIP ! Bump Damping Stiffness

Excessive bump damping makes the car skittish over rough track surfaces - keep it relatively soft.

Rebound Stiffness.....

Like bump dumping stiffness, rebound stiffness is measured numerically; the value indicates how resistant the suspension is to movement, but in the opposite direction of bump damping.

Rebound damping controls the rate of extension as the suspension rebounds away from the wheel wells. Adjusting front rebound damping stiffness fine-tunes your car’s balance going into and out of corners. Increasing front rebound damping stiffness increases transitional understeer. Decreasing front rebound damping stiffness increases transitional oversteer. Try different damping stiffnesses in the front and rear to fine-tune your transitional understeer / oversteer balance.

PRO TIP ! Setting Damping Stiffness

Always set rebound stiffness first, then adjust bump damping stiffness to around 50 to 75 percent of the rebound stiffness as a starting point. Make your fine-tuned adjustments from there.

 

[Dan Smith]

AERO...


PRO TIP ! Adjusting Downforce

Adjust downforce to create a top-speed bias or a cornering bias on certain tracks. Make quick adjustments and monitor their effects to your top speed in the Benchmark screen to roughly ascertain how much of a trade-off you’re making. Don’t underestimate its effects, though; you could be looking at top speed changes of 15 to 25 mph if you adjust to a full cornering bias on both front and rear.

PRO TIP ! Drafting, Drag, and Downforce

The maximum drafting effect is achieved at half-car lengths from the lead car, but the draft slipstream extends as far out as 12 car lengths, where the effects peter out to nothingness. When you’re within the draft, various effects occur to both the lead car and the trailing cars, including decreased aerodynamic drag, decreased front downforce, and decreased rear downforce.

The charts below illustrate these effects. At half-car lengths, the trailing car is experiencing only 70 percent of its normal drag through the air, approximately 60 percent of its tuned front downforce, and approximately 45 percent of its tuned rear downforce. The lead car experiences some small benefits but nothing like the trailing car. Draft affects drag and downforce on both ends of the car; this is because air is not passing over your aerodynamic body parts (if installed). Consequently, the trailing car can actually lose about half its downforce. This means you shouldn’t rely on your downforce during races in which you plan on drafting a lot; but if you’re flying solo on the track during hot laps, then go crazy with the downforce.

While drafting, you must be wary of the decreased forces exerted on your car. You are going faster, and you don’t have as much downforce helping you brake and steer. This means you must hit the brakes earlier and maybe even apply a bit more steering input to get that extra dig into the corner. If you’re not paying attention to the effects, you may consistently steer wide as you draft into corners. Also, if your downforce is tuned to maximize cornering, you’ll likely notice a significant difference in your car’s performance while drafting.

Tuning downforce only alters your car’s performance if there is a difference at both ends of the car. If you tune both front and rear to 125 lb, there might be less of a difference than if you adjust front downforce to 85 lb and rear downforce to 0 lb. Remember, it’s the difference between these two values that alters the car’s performance, not adjusting them both to equal values.

In summary, plan ahead for the type of race and track and your racing style. As we’ve shown here, drafting significantly affects how your downforce contributes to your performance on the track.

 

[Dan Smith]

​BRAKING...


The only way to create and maintain balance is to keep the slider somewhere in the middle of the adjustment spectrum—100 percent front bias makes as little sense as 100 percent rear bias.

You should fine-tune this adjustment to get front and rear tires to lock up at the same time—that is always the main goal unless you’re trying to get creative with specific oversteer/understeer conditions during heavy braking. A car’s level of grip and the way it handles weight transfer under acceleration or deceleration affects its brake balance. As you upgrade and tune your car, you will probably need to adjust brake balance to maximize brake performance.

By controlling the relative distribution of hydraulic pressure between the front and rear brakes, you can affect which tires lock up first under heavy braking. This in turn affects braking distance and understeer/oversteer balance while braking.

Adjusting brake balance rearward increases oversteer during braking at the expense of stability. Adjusting brake balance forward increases understeer and improves stability but can lead to excessive understeer when braking. Avoid extremes, which increase braking distance and your lap times.

PRO TIP ! Creating Balance

The ideal brake balance is generally the point at which all four tires lock up at the same time.

PRESSURE.....

The 0 to 200 percent variance in brake pressure adjustments gives you ample opportunity to find the perfect setting. As in real-world racing, some drivers have heavy feet and others are more tentative. This setting depends primarily on your driving style and where you prefer it to be,
rather than where it should be for optimal results. Leaving the setting at its default level is the easiest to learn and control.

Adjust overall brake pressure so the tires will lock under hard braking but won’t lock prematurely with just a small amount of pedal travel. Reducing total brake pressure increases the amount of pedal travel required to lock the tires. If you reduce it too much, the tires won’t lock at all.
Increase total brake pressure if the tires are not locking under hard braking, but don’t overdo it or the tires will lock too easily, sending the car out of control.

PRO TIP ! Brake Pressure

In the real world, this adjusts how much pedal travel is required to lock the brakes (simply known as “brake sensitivity”). This adjustment translates in the game to how easily it is to lock your brakes during button presses.

 

[Dan Smith]

DIFFERENTIAL...


The differential allows the tires on each side of the car to turn at different rates, since the inside tire travels a shorter distance around a turn than the outside tire.

A limited slip differential locks at a preset point to limit this difference in rotational speed, providing maximum traction under acceleration and/or deceleration.

Front and Rear Acceleration.....

The higher the percentage setting, the smaller the difference in wheel rotation it takes to achieve differential lock under acceleration. The acceleration differential setting adjusts how much of a difference in wheel rotation is required to lock the differential under acceleration. Increasing the acceleration setting makes the differential lock more quickly under acceleration.

On rear differentials, increasing the acceleration setting can increase oversteer in rear- and all-wheel-drive cars. For high-powered vehicles, this increase is necessary to maintain adequate grip, but excessively quick differential locking can impair handling. Reducing the acceleration setting makes the differential lock more slowly. On front differentials, reducing the acceleration setting
can reduce understeer in front- or all-wheel-drive vehicles.

PRO TIP ! Acceleration Settings

On high-powered cars that exhibit heavy acceleration, adjustments to front and rear acceleration are often necessary to keep your car gripping the track. In this case, increase the percentage setting.

Front and Rear Deceleration.....

The higher the percentage setting, the smaller the difference in wheel rotation it takes to achieve differential lock under deceleration. The deceleration differential setting adjusts how much
of a difference in wheel rotation is required to lock the differential under deceleration.
Increasing the deceleration setting makes the differential lock more quickly under deceleration, but excessive differential locking can impair handling. On rear differentials, decreasing the deceleration setting can reduce lift-throttle oversteer in rear- and all-wheel-drive cars.

Reducing the deceleration setting makes the differential lock more slowly. On rear differentials, reducing the deceleration setting can increase lift-throttle oversteer in rear- and all-wheel-drive cars.

PRO TIP ! Deceleration Presets

Increase the percentage deceleration setting for front and rear to cause the differentials to lock more quickly when under deceleration.

 

[Dan Smith]

i hope we get a full race this thursday!! was a shame a couple of people didnt show up.

 

[Chris Bell]

What times the race tonight?? Which race is it??

 

[Dan Smith]

The lobby opens at 7pm, the race is at Sebring Club with any 911 tuned to A600.

 

[Chris Bell]

Ahh mine still feels like it has a dead horse strapped to the hood!!

 

[Marcel Campenaar]

Hi guys , sorry I missed last weeks race , my fault , completely forgot it.

Cant join tonight either , have to visit a friend of mine in the hospital

I will be there next week!