I just built a computer a couple of nights ago, and I purchased the Race 07 series from Steam during the big sale last week. I have a Fanatec Porsche Carrera wheel and I can't get the clutch to work. I just ended up using my paddle shifters last night. To be honest, I can still use the H-shifter but without a properly working clutch, it loses alot of the fun. Anyway, does the clutch work with this series and if so, how do I do it. I did mess with the set-ups for quite a while, but could never get it to work. Thanks.
I haven't got a clutch myself as I only have the DFGT but race 07 does support clutch. Make sure you have it assigned in controller setting and enabled in realism setting. Good luck
You can just assign the clutch(left pedal) in the control settings to the clutch function. I have the same wheel. Concerning the H-shifter. Dont any of the gear settings work? And is the problem only in-game and not in the control panel(windows)? I am on my second wheel, but with the first one I needed to setup the H-shifters the first time. How to configure it is in the pdf manual found on the fanatec website. Let me know if you need more detailed help. Note that I mostly use the pedal shifters, the 2 rods that connect the shifter to the base have too much leeway so that the whole shifter rocks backwards and forwards including the desk. So im building a better solution with a couple of threaded bars and nuts'n'bolts.
I can assign the clutch and different gears, but I can't get the clutch to work like a real clutch. I can just change gears without pushing in on the clutch with no problems, which is what I'm trying to fix.
This is the one "flaw" with the game. I didn't dive into deeply to see if a setting was off but I do remember having everything off (auto-clutch included) and still get the same issue that the OP had. I think proper use of the clutch does give an advantage as it seems if you "catch the clutch" right you can shift at a higher rev where not using it seems to shift you at a lower rev. Just my observation, but the OP is right. In Forza bad shifts ruin your clutch and gears over time to the point where you're not competitive at all. In this game no such punishment exists.
I would agree that this is a flaw. I think it is to bad that it doesn't have this function because everything else seems to be so good.
Sorry to OP for a little OT question; Is hitting the clutch to help regain control when you get a massive understeer something which is done in racing? It´s what I was told to do in driving school when taking my license, but have no idea if it´s being used in racing. (I know, I shouldn´t have had massive understeer in the first place, but I´m still very much a rookie and overshoot some corners occasionally )
IMHO hitting the clutch is the last thing you want to do when you have massive understeer. The reason I say this is because you are already suffering from lack of weight to the front of the car, and this is likely the problem of your massive understeer, unless you have simply locked up the front brakes. If you have locked the front brakes to induce this, the simple solution is to adjust your brake bias to put more brake to the rear so you prevent front lock ups. If it is due to weight transfer, then you need to change your suspension setup to allow more weight to be put on the front wheels Increasing the rear rebound and lowering the front bump on the dampers will accomplish this. As for the last part of your statement about overshooting the corners still, this can be resolved with practice, practice, practice.
Yeah ofc, practice is what I'm doing ^^ What we learnt in driving school was hitting the clutch to disconnect the engine from the wheels so the engine is not imposing any force to the car while trying to regain grip (either pushing or breaking the car). Breaking would transfer weight forward, but not by much if you have no grip at all. This was for when driving on snow/ice though, might differ on Tarmac, we don't tend to oversteer often on Tarmac in regular cars.
Well, one little tidbit of wisdom I can confer on you, "slow in, fast out" If you keep that in mind and don't worry too much about braking as late as possible right now, your lap times will improve by a bit with the added benefit that you won't have to worry about trying to recover from entering the turn too fast and sliding.
Yeah I know about that approach, I'm merely asking because it does still happen that I miss the breaking point. I'm still trying to convince my brain that it's smart to find objects around the track to help with remembering braking points, but it's a struggle Enough OT from me though. Cheers for the replies.
Jim is right. I was trying to brake late and power on early but slowly it became obvious that going side by side in to turn, if i brake first, i win (most of the time, ace drivers are different. case.). Tight squeeze on the brakes, partial release and roll to the corner instead of one tight short brake with full release.. The latter is faster (theoretically) but a lot harder to get faster lap times, with rolling to corners you get maximum apex speed, easier to hit perfect line and exits are spot on, every time. Only start to reduce brake distances when you get the same lap time (with in few tenths..) every lap. with maximum brakes/short distance, the apex speed is much harder and most often you brake too much. You need short brakes when defending or attacking a player that is at/above your level, not much use anywhere else. One of the reasons why defending is a lot slower than driving on a empty road, you can't brake optimally because you need to defend the line, you get slower and wider where as fast is lean. Brake fade makes you think you can't brake any lighter, you brake hard and at the end, where you are suppose to let go and increase throttle, the brakes are so hot that decelerating takes lot longer so you need to brake from 100km/h to 70km/h (apex speed target speed being +80km/h) just because you are running out of the road (or it feels like it."it doesn't brake!!!!"), ie the brakes are giving away. Where as if you roll, you have less brake temperature, more consistent braking torque, no lock ups and more speed thru corners. That's one side of "slow in/fast out". The another side is actually heavy brakes in hairpins and other very slow corners but that's not the point here. Rolling is for fast/medium corners, hard short brake is for straight line ->hairpins where you go deeper and slower than usual in the entry to make the exit start earlier and get longer straightline acceleration. Once you learn to "roll with it",you'll drop tons in laptime. I'm still struggling with it, the short heavy brake was learnt first, it's harder to unlearn stuff.. EDIT: forgot to mention, the real upside of light brakes is that your car is never out of balance, you turn, it follows. Hard brakes is unbalancing act, you can't really do that in any where else but straightline. When you release your brakes, the car swings back, no load on front, you turn, it rolls on it's sidewheels, you lose front end by overloading simultaneously having no load on rear... all movements very aggressive, dramatic and the car spends less time in it's optimal stage (all four wheels connected to the ground..). With lighter brakes everything is smoother, car is relaxed and ready for fast turning action. A good way to learn this is to take any FWD, go to Zandvoort (or any other medium speed track) and learn to drive the lap with 100% throttle, full lap. You need to apply brakes earlier but once you get the hang of it, you can post same laptimes with full throttle slowed with brakes than with normal style.. All because of better apex speed and perfect exits... Slow In, Fast Out..
Sorry for that OT epoch but here's in short what i was trying to say: Light blue is target speed, red is hard brakes speed vs time, the blue is rolling or light brakes speed vs time. (edit: yellow = Alien Curve) As you can see the red line has very steep angle with the target speed line, it's very hard to stop at just the right moment, that's the difference between aliens and the rest of us. The blue line is much more gradual and doesn't overshoot. You give yourself a lot of room where to operate, you can change lanes, you can change your mind, you can react and predict things. Hard brakes means you made up your mind, it has to work, no room for mistakes not even a small one. The time difference between perfectly executed hard vs light is around a tenth of a second or less, depending on the corner. EDIT: updated the picture, it now shows the optimum brake curve, aka the Alien Curve. What i've gathered in the last season/off-season from our finest elite in PrestoGP, is that their brake curves follows the blue but just steeper going to yellow in the hairpins.
Thank you Kennett for your two very well written posts! I will be keeping this in mind once I'm back home and practice practice practice! (never before have I wanted a vacation to end faster than right now lol)
Me too, the subject was just too alluring. Back to topic, Race07 doesn't need clutch. I use it on digital mode (press button..) and use it as launch control. You can set the release speed by modifying the Sensitivity in the control menu.. it does take some of the simulation aspect away, specially when racing retros. There also auto-blib that you can not disengage (modifying PLR file won't help...), there always some amount of auto-blib. Auto-clutch is horrible, none should use it, the game interrupts your inputs even more.
I only have two pedals. Using auto clutch has no effect on WTCC or F3000. It has a big effect on Caterham and retro, and a noticeable effect on GT Club. BMW Mini no clutch up changes are faster and down change lock ups are not a problem. Retro Max and Caterhams have faster up shifts without a clutch and with some practice you can down shift without a clutch and still have some engine braking without locking the wheels. However, if your brakes a strong enough don't use engine braking and then you will not risk rear lock ups on change down. Sometimes I turn auto clutch off and on two or three times per lap when in a GT Club, Caterham, or retro race.
