Raceroom Racing Experience Wheel / FFB Settings thread.

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Instead of people having to wade through pages upon pages with posts to find Wheel and FFB settings that might work, or might even be out of date, I will do my best to keep this post up to date with links to settings that people find useful.

Please do help me by pointing out useful posts in a reply below or a PM to me.

Fanatec GT3 / CSR
No info yet...

Fanatec CSR Elite
No info yet...

Fanatec CSW v1/v2
Fanatec ClubSport V2 Settings - by @Sean Lander - June 2015

Logitech DFGT
No info yet...

Logitech Momo
No info yet...

Logitech G25/G27
Logitech G27 settings - by @Matej Lakota - June 2015

Simexperience Accuforce wheel
No info yet...

Thrustmaster TX/T300
Thrustmaster T300 settings - by @Jyri Kettunen - June 2015

Thrustmaster T500
Thrustmaster T500 settings - by @Giangiorm - June 2015

 

[Skazz]

I reset my T500 profile after the latest big patch, and just the simple steps of dropping smoothing to 0% and overall FFB to 60% was enough to get a very communicative and useable end result.

I am not overly fussy about FFB, but when I find myself able to push more and more with good awareness of grip levels then the FFB is definitely "good enough". This was clearly the case across all the various classes I tried (DTM 2014 and 1992, group 5, GT3, etc...). R3E is a very good experience now, especially racing the AI.

 

[Andy_J]

I reset my T500 profile after the latest big patch, and just the simple steps of dropping smoothing to 0% and overall FFB to 60% was enough to get a very communicative and useable end result.

I am not overly fussy about FFB, but when I find myself able to push more and more with good awareness of grip levels then the FFB is definitely "good enough". This was clearly the case across all the various classes I tried (DTM 2014 and 1992, group 5, GT3, etc...). R3E is a very good experience now, especially racing the AI.

Silly question, how do you reset the T500 profile?

 

[Skazz]

Silly question, how do you reset the T500 profile?

Click on your custom profile in the profile selection screen, then press the bin icon on the left of it. Then click the default T500 profile, make a change and it will copy it back to a new custom profile.

 

[Msportdan]

I wont lie this thread & user @Jyri Kettunen for me has saved rre from permanent uninstallation. Thanks mate great settings you supplied me.

Had to use 900deg and that's changed this game back for me.

 

[Msportdan]

Just to add I went back to 540. Other gt adac cars I tried don't seem as floaty as the mp12. Think maybe just a bad default setup. 900 in that car made it better its not needed for otheres.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Just to add I went back to 540. Other gt adac cars I tried don't seem as floaty as the mp12. Think maybe just a bad default setup. 900 in that car made it better its not needed for otheres.

Could you not just change the steering lock on the 12c?
But I agree, the 12c is by far the worst car in the game.

 

[James Nance]

Could you not just change the steering lock on the 12c?
But I agree, the 12c is by far the worst car in the game.

Nah Daytona Prototype then Mclaren, haha

 

[W_Akira]

My setups, I'm really happy with those. Both uses Thrustmaster profiles in 100%. I highly suggest the first settings for FF cars. On WTCC 2014 you can feel the front getting light due to acceleration exiting low/medium speed corners. That's awesome. Second settings suits better FR and MR cars as is easier to catch slides, but less bumpy.
I accept suggestions to make those better (i don't like a light feeling wheel).

 

[Skazz]

I got round to briefly trying my T300 last night, and found it a lot less easy to get an end result that I personally like.

Unlike the T500 (just turn down overall FFB and smoothing and go) I found myself even considering adding damping and friction to make the T300 feel more believable: by default it feels like it's trying to emulate a G25 rattling around due to every little bump. And while it weights up nicely in the corners something was odd because I lost the back end of my test GT3 car a few times without feeling anything to indicate rear end grip was an issue.... I don't recall having that problem using the T500 with stock profile and I don't think the T300 was clipping.

I was wondering if the T300 default profile doesn't take into account how light and free spinning the wheel is, such that it lacks believability when it comes to offering just that little bit of resistance unless you turn on damping/friction. But most importantly I need to figure out how to ensure no missing FFB information. Work in progress, clearly (although i'll probably just stick to the T500, it seems to work better with RaceRoom)

 

[Jyri Kettunen]

....And while it weights up nicely in the corners something was odd because I lost the back end of my test GT3 car a few times without feeling anything to indicate rear end grip was an issue....

I had time to make an experiment yesterday. I took the controller-file of GSCE, renamed it, adjusted some values to be more suitable for R3E and re-assigned controls. The end result is something closer to Assetto Corsa FFB, with heavy self aligning forces. While it feels less natural to me, it defo helps catching back end slides (T300), and helps with more floaty cars. File attached. Remember to reassign your pedals.

 

[Msportdan]

im eager yo try that jyri. Didnt know you could just use other gmotor files like that./

 

[Msportdan]

just cam back to rre after playing some other sims. Tried the GSC file. just felt way to heavy. When I reinstalled my original jyri file, something just didn't feel right,..... I just dont get it...

you play rre alone it feels ok// play it back to back or freshly minded with another sim, just feels "off"....

 

[James Cook]

Here we go again....

 

[Msportdan]

just cam back to rre after playing some other sims. Tried the GSC file. just felt way to heavy. When I reinstalled my original jyri file, something just didn't feel right,..... I just dont get it...

you play rre alone it feels ok// play it back to back or freshly minded with another sim, just feels "off"....

maybe its just that mclaren which i find frustrating, i dunno. i love that car and its a disaster in RRe?!

 

[Jyri Kettunen]

maybe its just that mclaren which i find frustrating, i dunno. i love that car and its a disaster in RRe?!

Do you drive it with the default setup only?

 

[Msportdan]

I raise the bump value on it to try and get a less floaty nose.

(yes there not bump stops)

 

[Jyri Kettunen]

There are no bump stops, but the bump side of dampers that can be adjusted. Raising them is not enough. I'll come with a setup suggestion later.

FFB criticism would be more credible if one knew the basics of car setups.

 

[Msportdan]

you wont fix this car no matter what you think you can come up with,,, think ive tried?!

FFB criticism is totally justified.

thank you.


Bump Stiffness Explanation: The shocks on these stock cars are two-way adjustable, meaning “Bump” and “Rebound” are independently adjustable. The “Bump” setting refers to the stiffness rating of the shock when it is in compression. A higher number will mean a stiffer shock under compression, and a lower number will mean a softer shock under compression.
What does it do: Many people use the bump adjustment for many different things. It does control the weight transfer to the front (stiffer bump will resist weight moving to the nose), but it can also be used to control how quickly the suspension travels.

On the Front End: The bump setting on the front will control how quickly the nose “drops” under braking, when the springs bind, and how quickly weight will transfer to the front. Generally, on the left front, decreasing the left front bump will move weight to that corner faster, and help with turn in. Decreasing the right front bump will shift weight to that corner faster, and make the car tighter on entry. Increasing the bump will do the opposite for each corner.

On the Rear End: The rear bump setting will mainly control how the car behaves on corner exit. If you lower the bump on both sides of the rear, the car will have more traction under throttle, but will be tighter on the exit. Separately, the shocks will do the same as the springs: a stiffer right rear shock will loosen the car under throttle, while a stiffer left rear shock will tighten the car under throttle. Lowering the right rear bump setting will tighten the car under throttle, and lowering the left rear bump will loosen the car under throttle.


Tips: It’s difficult to explain how the shocks work, I’d need an entire new guide for that. However, testing will show you what works and what doesn’t work. If the front end feels really “floaty” when it’s moving up and down, increase the bump in the front shocks. If it feels to “rigid”, decrease the bump, and the same goes for the rear end.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

I've removed a couple of posts in here, please keep the discussions civil and on topic.

 

[Kevin Bradley]

Hi Guys

Logitech Driving Force GT Wheel

Force Feedback Intensity: 85%
Smoothing: 20%
Force Feedback Spring: 75%
Force Feedback Damper: 10%
Force Feedback Friction: 90%

Steering Force Intensity: 100%
Understeer: 100%
Vertical Load: 100%
Lateral Force: 80%
Steering Rack: 25%

Engine Vibrations: 35%
Brake Vibrations: 50%
Kerb Vibrations: 30%
Shift Effects: 55%

Tested for about an hour, so by no means am I saying it's the definitive setup. Some things I haven't touched (such as understeer and vertical load). By far the biggest improvement I found was by increasing the Force Feedback Spring to around 75% and to increase the friction up to 90%. This seemed to help cure the 'floaty feeling' some talk about.

Hope it's useful