Quick release for t-slot aluminum profile

hatih

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May 18, 2014
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I'm building a custom rig from t-slot aluminum (without plans so at the moment I'm little nervous about how everything will fit together) and I would like to add couple of quick release systems to it but I don't have ideas for them yet. I present here what I want so perhaps someone will point me to a direction where I can achieve what I want:
1) I've ordered Heusinkveld pedals and I would like to have a quick release system that I can use to move clutch and brake pedals left so that when I drive a car with no clutch the brake pedal would be where clutch is on three pedal setup for left foot braking. By accident I made my rig wide enough to allow enough movement. (And pedals have actually arrived already and I noticed one possible problem with this plan, I may need to make some sort of an expansion cable for cable connecting gas and brake pedals.)

2) I intend to install big screen in front of my rig which would also be good for playing Elite Dangerous (that I've bought but not installed yet), that's why I would like to have a quick release system for Simucube 2 (that will hopefully arrive soon) that I can get easily off and place some sort of table in place where I can put (cheap) joystick for Elite.

(3) If I get exited about flight simulators I will at some point want to change the pedals too for flight pedals, that will require another quick release but that isn't most important thing at this moment.)

I hope to get some ideas, I would thing that I'm not only one who wants to alter with two and three pedal setups.
 

hatih

1RPM
May 18, 2014
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I'm not in a hurry since new wheel hasn't arrived yet but is it so that nobody else doesn't want to adjust the pedals depending on car? Or how people have done it? For now I probably connect pedals on thick wood plate until I get an idea of how to move them easily as needed.
 

Wmacky

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Nov 10, 2018
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I'm not in a hurry since new wheel hasn't arrived yet but is it so that nobody else doesn't want to adjust the pedals depending on car? Or how people have done it? For now I probably connect pedals on thick wood plate until I get an idea of how to move them easily as needed.

Same boat! I'm doing a 50/50 racing / Flight convertible cockpit. For the center mount Joystick, and rudder / driving pedals, I'm thinking about them being permanently mounted to aluminium plates that connect to a 80 /20 substructure with bolts and wingnuts. The bolts would stay connected to the 80/20 such that you could set down the plate ( with say the rudder pedals already attached), and just run down the wing nuts?

My biggest concern is that I have a P-1 mounting plate for a front mounted DD wheel. I have no idea how to quickly swap it out for a heavy yoke?
 

RCHeliguy

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I use something like this for my wheel

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot...th-Locking-Lever-I-Type-slot-8::99999666.html

I use it with a slightly different bracket

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot...slot-8//Bracket-40-I-Typ-slot-8::9999998.html

I know its not exactly the same use case but it might give some inspiration
That's pretty cool. I may have to give that a try. I should be able to use that in one or two places and speed up the swap process even faster.
 
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RCHeliguy

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@Xr4eyes
They don't ship to the US, however, 8020 does have that product.
https://8020.net/14117.html

What I've done is order some 8mm lever arms that are just long enough to rotate without hitting the 40x40 material. I'll need to either use washers or find the appropriate shim like used in that kit in the UK. One I get that to work, I'll order the angle clamps.
 
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RCHeliguy

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For my rig, I think I'll settle for tool-less using properly sized 8mm bolt levers. The 8mm x 25mm long stud levers arrive today and I've already got perfectly sized aluminum shims ( 1/4" thick ) so that the levers will clear the 40x40 stock they are angled against and 25mm will be just long enough to reach near the bottom of the 8mm T-nuts. The 20mm I have now bite the T-nuts, but are not engaging enough threads.
 

RCHeliguy

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Maybe not quick release, but at least tool-less.
They still needed a couple washers in addition to the 1/4" aluminum shim to get the right spacing that has plenty of T-nut bite, and just clears the 40x40 stock.

quickRelease_4199.jpg
quickRelease_4196.jpg
quickRelease_4198.jpg


Just for completeness the flight pedals were already tool-less and drop in place. There are two bolts at the back that act as my personal set point and then 4 x 8mm knobs hold the flight pedals down.
flightpedals_4202.jpg
 
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metalnwood

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I have something very similar to you @RCHeliguy . I keep my throttle mounted to the side and remove my rim with the QR and put my hog stick on in a similar fashion. It takes less than a minute to sap from racing to flying....

What I do have setup differently is the pedals, I gave up on my dedicated rudders because it was too hard to swap them around. So I use my racing pedals with clutch/throttle for left/right.

I thought this would suck and I would just have to get used to it but it is much better than I thought. I thought I would have issues because I would have to come off one while applying the other and because they dont pivot it would be awkward but it's not how it works.. It is quite natural so I am sticking with it.
 

RCHeliguy

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They way I've got it set up, I loosen 4 levers slide the driving pedals to the front of the rig, then drop the flight pedals in push them against the bolts in back and tighten the knobs.

It goes pretty quickly now that I've raised the driving pedals and they slide back without the rear T-nuts sliding out the back.

Sounds like you have a solution that works for you and as long as you are happy with the solution that's all that matters.

My Heusinkveld pedals are pretty stiff and my clutch has a lot of let off. I like having them dialed in for driving.

The Crosswinds flight pedals are silky smooth and have different cam profiles, adjustable resistance and the pedals also tilt forward for left and right landing gear brakes which are useful when taxiing on the runway.
 

metalnwood

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I would prefer to use my rudders, i am not working with a better solution. Just one that was better than I thought it would be :)

I looked at doing something like you have but couldnt make it work. cant remember why, my sfx100 might have got in the way and then all of a sudden the only solution involves a lot of mucking around. Your is looking good and easy.
 

RCHeliguy

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An SFX-100 would complicate things. If I mounted 2 front actuators on the frame in front of the vertical supports, I would currently have interference with my pedal deck. If I went to a P1-X pedal deck than I would have issues with the flight pedals fitting in between the internal supports.

If the pedal deck cross members were shortened by 80mm and the supporting 40x40 pieces were moved 40mm toward the center on each side using angle supports underneath it would be better, but the pedal deck would have to be raised at the back so the rear of the pedal deck would have clearance. Hmmm...

OK, if I had the full P1-X upgrade kit and mounted casters to the adjustable standoffs that touch down only when the actuators were fully retracted, and moved the flight pedal rails to the center where they wouldn't interfer with travel of the P1-X deck. The flight pedal rails would have to be mounted to the frame toward the chair and halfway down the length.
 

Wmacky

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Nov 10, 2018
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Great ideas. RCHeliguy, do you have a link for the 8mm x 25mm long stud levers? How about using some stout cut tubing lengths for the spacer?

I have a P1 also but WILL be mounting SFX actuators to the rig. I want to somehow maintain your rudder / race pedal solution. Trying to wrap my head around your last post!
 
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RCHeliguy

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Great ideas. RCHeliguy, do you have a link for the 8mm x 25mm long stud levers? How about using some stout cut tubing lengths for the spacer?

I have a P1 also but WILL be mounting SFX actuators to the rig. I want to somehow maintain your rudder / race pedal solution. Trying to wrap my head around your last post!
The levers I ordered from Amazon were only available in single quantities and there are no more left.

However I did find some here, SS.
https://www.mcmaster.com/6267t49

Or less expensive here, but not SS. I might get 30mm for these though. since the handle seems shallow to the bolt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M8-M10-Cla...hash=item2a81fd9b31:m:mdU0CLo9E8ebR8djSt0qhVg

Thanos said for people getting the 150mm PT-actuators that he was considering setting a working range option, such that the last say 30mm (user definable ) of travel were just to retract to allow casters to touch down. and the working range would be from the rest of the range.

The idea for the flight pedal supports is that they would only be secured to the frame closer to the seat and moved out from the frame far enough to allow the P1-X pedal deck vertical sides that bolt inside the frame clearance. Does that make sense?
deadpedal_4188.jpg
 
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hatih

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May 18, 2014
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My rig was on hold for a while since I had to wait for the wheel but now it's put so much together that I can drive with it. This is how wheel is currently attached:

My intention was to change the bolts that hold plate on place for some kind of quick release system and change the whole table when I play flight simulator but I have to ditch the plate and connect wheel directly to aluminum profile so I get extra clearance between it and my knees. So for now it's just a driving rig.

For the pedals I just made fast temporary solution so that I got the rig to use.


The wheel mount came much closer to the front than I initially expected so I had to change the pedal mounting, now there is no angle adjustment and at the moment I have no idea how to get brake and clutch so that I can easily move them but it's usable which is most important part.
 

hatih

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May 18, 2014
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Sort of off topic but how do direct drive wheel owners secure the usb from rim so that it won't get loose during playing but it's still easily disconnectable when changing rim? The upper picture is so dark that you can't really see even if it's there but I initially connected the cable to motor mount with that metal wire that has plastic around it you get holding wires etc when you buy them. (Don't know what it's called in English.) Not the best method when you want to change the rim.
 

RCHeliguy

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Barry shows how he has his USB receiver set up in his PSE GT3 wheel review.
I plan to do something very similar.
USBWheelConnector.jpg
 

EsxPaul

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Sort of off topic but how do direct drive wheel owners secure the usb from rim so that it won't get loose during playing but it's still easily disconnectable when changing rim? The upper picture is so dark that you can't really see even if it's there but I initially connected the cable to motor mount with that metal wire that has plastic around it you get holding wires etc when you buy them. (Don't know what it's called in English.) Not the best method when you want to change the rim.
It's much easier if you have a din connector that splits the usb cable into two pieces as the video from @RCHeliguy shows.

I use a similar type of setup which really helps with angling the cable in a way that suits your needs.

20190608_150242.jpg


20190608_170342.jpg
 
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herve45

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Jun 22, 2017
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Hello
Where can I buy this USB din adapter? is this really a din plug
Thanks