RaceRoom Racing Experience Racing Club event
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Could I switch to the DPD or whatever it is called please?
Of course, you can drive whichever car you like. :)

Is anyone else having issues with rear wheel locking on the downshift in the radical AER?
I haven't checked to see if it's available in these cars, but did you try adjusting the engine braking setting? It should help prevent the rears locking during downshifts. Other than that, downshift later and/or manually apply some throttle to rev match and prevent the locking.
 
Of course, you can drive whichever car you like. :)


I haven't checked to see if it's available in these cars, but did you try adjusting the engine braking setting? It should help prevent the rears locking during downshifts. Other than that, downshift later and/or manually apply some throttle to rev match and prevent the locking.
That's a good idea. I might change rims and see if heel toe with the SSH shifter works better.
 
Daytona for me please, the only car of them I seem to be able to handle. Didn't check numbers, so give me any that is free :)
I drive all cars with the default ffb strength and noticed the FFB on them is craaazy strong..guess they didn't have power steering? :geek:
 
Didn't check numbers, so give me any that is free :)
No offence, but I don't know all the livery numbers off by heart. You'll need to check in-game yourself and pick one, as I don't really have the time to do this for people.

I drive all cars with the default ffb strength and noticed the FFB on them is craaazy strong..guess they didn't have power steering?
No idea, but I would think they do in real life. Remember that each car in R3E has it's own FFB multiplier, so you can adjust the overall strength without messing up your main settings. The multiplier can be adjusted in the pit menu. (Or using a key press, if you assign keys to the commands.)
 
No offence, but I don't know all the livery numbers off by heart. You'll need to check in-game yourself and pick one, as I don't really have the time to do this for people.


No idea, but I would think they do in real life. Remember that each car in R3E has it's own FFB multiplier, so you can adjust the overall strength without messing up your main settings. The multiplier can be adjusted in the pit menu. (Or using a key press, if you assign keys to the commands.)

sure, sorry, i just realized i can check the numbers with my smartphone as well. Please give me the #29. I saw that I am registered twice, just so you know.

Regarding the FFB, i know that but i figured that the differences in default strength has the purpose to simulate the real deal. But I checked, the Daytona indeed used power steering, so I'll probably tone it down a bit because i can't believe that a power steering car has such high steering forces
 
Regarding the FFB, i know that but i figured that the differences in default strength has the purpose to simulate the real deal. But I checked, the Daytona indeed used power steering, so I'll probably tone it down a bit because i can't believe that a power steering car has such high steering forces
S3 have been messing with the FFB a lot over the last couple of years, so it's possible that the P2s simply haven't had their modifiers tuned to the latest version yet.

I toned mine down the moment I drove out of the pits. I used to love strong FFB across the board, but not anymore. The lighter I can have it and still feel all the forces I need, the better. Makes it much easier to control the car, and much less tiring in long races.

Should have made this one a Daytona-only race. :D I can't remember the car being so popular in previous P2 events.
 
Did you try the other cars? I absolutely hated the Daytona and only chose it because it was the most orange. Previously I never could figure out where the left and right sides of the car were in relation to the track, and was always turning in way too late.
I don't know if this will help anyone as I am no setup expert.

Tried the setup, it's a more extreme version of what I settled on. I found the car locking up and spearing right in the heavy braking zones, curing that made it difficult to rotate in the same corners (IMHO). I've tweaked the engine braking, power and coast parts a bit less than yours and then adjust brake bias as fuel load changes.

Probably the most I've messed with a setup for quite a while. Maybe due to the older tyre model?
 
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Tried the setup, it's a more extreme version of what I settled on. I found the car locking up and spearing right in the heavy braking zones, curing that made it difficult to rotate in the same corners (IMHO). I've tweaked the engine braking, power and coast parts a bit less than yours and then adjust brake bias as fuel load changes.

Probably the most I've messed with a setup for quite a while. Maybe due to the older tyre model?
Usually I don't change much, maybe ARB and diff on most cars. This car took a lot more fiddling with to get it to do what I wanted.
 
I could barely manage a lap at default without spearing right into the barriers under braking :thumbsdown:
That's because you're braking too hard and the rears are coming around. These things have no ABS, so you need to actively let the brake off gradually as you get slower and lose downforce. Happens more easily when going downhill too, since more weight is on the front. Just takes a bit of practice, that's all.

It can be reduced by messing with the setup, but I don't want to reduce max braking pressure because it's fine at high speed, and I don't want more bias forwards because it just locks the fronts instead of the rears.
 
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