Porsche 911 GT3 Cup driving tips

Now im not an inexperienced sim racer and would consider myself quick in anything front wheel drive but like to have a blast in a rear wheel drive car every now and again. Favourite is the GT3 cup car but i always seem to be locking the rear end up on downshift which of course spins the car. Anyone got any tips on how to get over this.
 
While we are on this thread.....any other tips on driving or setup on the Porsche Cup car?....these cars have a lot of understeer/pushing which I can eliminate by going really slow around the corners. Unfortunately the AI eats me for breakfast with this plan, even at 90. It does seem to take a few laps for the tires to get more grip, but I still struggle in the corners. I have adjusted the Brake balance and pressure to a nice level, so that's OK. I enjoy the lively feel of these cars and no aids make it challenging, but racing is a bit of a drag. I like the old RUF GT3 and don't do too badly in that one, but it's a different animal. Any help appreciated.
Edit...brake balance to the front (58%), 85% pressure and PRACTISE! Many, many laps around a familiar course ( Zandvoort) and I'm starting to get it. Back to the course that was bothering me ( Sepang) and it's much better. Now top qualifier at 90 and mixing it up in the race. Having fun now.
 
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Just ran a series at Sachenring.....challenging to dance around this hilly track in the Cup car, the first section of flowing down and up corners takes smooth driving and little stabs on the gas and brake....and steady hands through the fast sweepers. Give it a try, great fun.
 
so do they have to blip the throttle in the real car, i know some drivers will regardless but is it a must to stop the rear locking?
I'm by no means an expert, but I can't imagine so.
Blipping the throttle is usually a thing in manual gearboxes or when power-shifting.
Having paddle-shifters without an electronic auto-blip would defeat the purpose.
But again, this is just a best guess.

When it comes to the R3E version though, one thing to remember is that the suspension is pretty stiff. So when you're down-shifting under heavy braking, you don't have all that much weight on the rear tires.
So you can't down-shift as aggressively as in e.g. a GT3 car.

EDIT: Apparently it depends on the shifter used.

Sequential stick-shift, with blipping:

Paddle-shift, no blip:
 
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Sequential definitely doesn't equal autoblip and/or throttle cut, there's plenty of cars where you have to at least blip on downshifts and sometimes even lift off on upshifts (though this seems to be less of an issue in Raceroom in general). But I'm not sure if paddle shift means there's always autoblip. Some sources seem to indicate that it's not the case, especially with the Cup cars as there seem to be a lot of variants, but can't find a reliable video proof of a car with paddles but no autoblip.
 
AFAIK, there are 3 ways to overcome rear-locking
1. Release the brake pedal slightly on each downshift - mostly on lower gears 4->3 and 3->2
2. Downshift later - means downshift on low revs where the engine-braking is not as strong.
3. Set the brake bias more to the front

I think first technic is the one used by RL race drivers when no blip/auto-blip is avail but it needs some getting used to...not easy to sync it properly.
 
Nicki Thiim in his review of sim Cup cars says that IRL you need to ease up on the brake as speed comes down (because the downforce decreases and the car gets "lighter") to avoid locking up the rears. Same goes for the sim cars, so braking hard at first, then easing off seems to help. He says this is modelled very well in RRE.
 

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