PC1 Pcars physics and FFB

I find that in alpha pcars it is difficult to oversteer. I tend to understeer a lot even when the car has good traction. And when drifting, with the slick tyres, the FFB just doesnt feel right compared to AC that i get into spin out most of the time. If i do get the drifting right it is because i get lucky, visual observation and timing but not because of good FFB. I dont race or drift in real life so i am not sure if there is something wrong with pcars physics but i do kinda find AC come quite close to real life driving.
 
Which car are you driving? Some of the ordinary street cars have the stock setup, aka the "real life" setup applied to them and these are inherently understeery (just as they are in real life, unless you do a small wheel flick or aggressive turning into the corner while flooring the throttle).

Some cars oversteer like crazy on throttle though.. Try the P1 and keep it on the road. It's way way WAY more oversteery in pCars than in Assetto Corsa for instance.

Another quite tricky car is the BAC Mono.

Then there are some cars where the car setup has been on purpose set so that it is easier for gamepad drivers to drive them. This usually means an understeering setup which can usually be easily fixed simply by stiffening the rear springs, rear ARB and softening the front. A lot of the open wheelers also seem to have way too much wings for most tracks and are biased to be very neutral or slightly understeering. Just change the wings so that the ratio of front to back is larger. For instance in the FG1000 I was yesterday running 18 front wing and only 7 in the back (default is something like 15 front 12 rear).

About drifting.. I find that the "ease of drifting" is hugely affected by FFB. Not sure what kind of FFB settings or what wheel you are using but having the "correct" settings for the Spindle Arm Angle (found in each car's setup) is absolutely crucial to get a quickly reacting wheel. In general I found the exact opposite that AC is especially bad in this area.. it is very tricky in AC to make huge drifts at a steep angle and then be able to recover from them. Also note that there is not a single car in AC as far as I know that has the correct "real" car setup. They are all tweaked to be much more oversteery and loose than in real life. Just look at the springs and dampers there.. you can basically copy those values for the car setups in pCars and you will get quite similar behavior and will probably find them easier to drift in pCars.

EDIT: also make sure you are running the LEGIT version of pCars. If you are one of those that have the leaked version then know this; it is completely and utterly broken! Especially the FFB was completely messed up at that time. So if you are trying to do any kind of driving with any 820 to 840 build you'll have a very hard time doing any proper driving at all. The current build as of this writing is 954.
 
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Interesting, so actual setup angle values for stuff like caster and camber could copy right over? That's pretty neat and tells you these physics guys are getting close to actuality. Gears and diff setting too I imagine?

All I know, is everytime I get in a car I up the first FFB number from the 26 default to 46 and it feels 300% better! (I forget the setting name now, "scaling"?)
 
yes i have the 829 version and of course is not exactly legit. I do own AC, but i am still deciding to buy the pcars, since it doesnt have a demo and the early access is expensive on steam, i have to resort to trying the "leaked" version. Anyway thanks for the info, good to know that the physics and FFB are fixed. So the only way i can try the current version of pcars is to buy them.
 
Interesting, so actual setup angle values for stuff like caster and camber could copy right over? That's pretty neat and tells you these physics guys are getting close to actuality. Gears and diff setting too I imagine?

All I know, is everytime I get in a car I up the first FFB number from the 26 default to 46 and it feels 300% better! (I forget the setting name now, "scaling"?)
Out of curiosity, which FFB wheel you using?
Some of the Wheels in the Controller Options have the default "Force Feedback" set to less than 100%.
Go to: Options > Controls > Configuration Tab > Scroll down to 'Force Feedback'. Depending on the auto detect for whatever wheel you have connected some may default to 75%, and I think there was an issue where Fanatec wheels were defaulting to 50%. either way turn that up first before adjusting car specific FFB settings.
 
yes i have the 829 version and of course is not exactly legit. I do own AC, but i am still deciding to buy the pcars, since it doesnt have a demo and the early access is expensive on steam, i have to resort to trying the "leaked" version. Anyway thanks for the info, good to know that the physics and FFB are fixed. So the only way i can try the current version of pcars is to buy them.

This explains your problem with the FFB. It is completely and utterly BROKEN in that build.. and it is NOT possible to fix it.. there was so many issues during that period of builds because so many things were moved and translated to the GUI. Heck some of the car setups are complete garbage and broken too due to the setup bug.

It's unfortunate that pCars got leaked but it's even more unfortunate that it happened to be such bad timing. Now there are thousands of people who are all convinced pCars is utter crap when it's not.
 
Out of curiosity, which FFB wheel you using?
Some of the Wheels in the Controller Options have the default "Force Feedback" set to less than 100%.
Go to: Options > Controls > Configuration Tab > Scroll down to 'Force Feedback'. Depending on the auto detect for whatever wheel you have connected some may default to 75%, and I think there was an issue where Fanatec wheels were defaulting to 50%. either way turn that up first before adjusting car specific FFB settings.

Correct. Almost all of the Thrustmaster wheels default to 75% which is completely wrong. They also have FFB damping default to 25% which is silly. The correct numbers for ALL wheels are 100% FFB strength and 0% damping.

The only Fanatec Wheel which is wrong is the Club Sport Wheel v2 which has FFB strength set to 50%.
 
I used to fiddle with Force and Tire force, but I read to stop touching anything there and stick to the car menus. Whatever it defaults to for my Forza CSR is complete and utterly right on. Its been an up and down ride as a tester. Sometimes its been so gutting and disappointing, but something clicked in late January and I feel like they're so close, but there's SO MANY variables to iron out. I can't fault them for doing that.
 
This explains your problem with the FFB. It is completely and utterly BROKEN in that build.. and it is NOT possible to fix it.. there was so many issues during that period of builds because so many things were moved and translated to the GUI. Heck some of the car setups are complete garbage and broken too due to the setup bug.

It's unfortunate that pCars got leaked but it's even more unfortunate that it happened to be such bad timing. Now there are thousands of people who are all convinced pCars is utter crap when it's not.
I don think the FFB is a complete joke. There is reliable feedback but not as good as AC. That build is still playable though. And if compare that build to the current one as night and day. Then i am confident people will buy this game cause there is not much NEW racing simulator out there.
 
No.. you don't understand. In that build it is LITERALLY broken. Like, the stuff you feel in that build has basically no resemblance to how it feels now, for some wheels the FFB actually makes the wheel suddenly go limp and turn in the wrong direction.. UNLESS you use a FFBTweaker.xml file to override the settings in the controller options.

In that broken build it's basically a coin toss.. depending on what brand of wheel you have it is more or less broken due to how the games wheel preset system works (or in this case, didn't work).
 

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