PC1 PCars and its FFb Main settings.

Msportdan

@Simberia
Firstly wow what a game, what a great job everyone involved has done.

But i thought Rres FFB settings were detailed lol.
Okay I have 3 settings I'm confused about. (my settings)


Thats

-FFb Main (100)

-Tyre force (20)

-Master swindle (default) however increased in the ginetta jnr, but not in formula c vo.


Do these cancle each other out, Tyre force i have to have real low on my t300 otherwise its like turning a house! How do i use the swindle arm and what are all those extra values lol…
Cheers for any help?

dan
 
read this on another post and totally agree with the tyre force thing

"
submitted 5 months ago * by Sir_Hugs_A_Lot

Backstory:

I frequent the WMD forums periodically as well as this subreddit daily and VirtualR. FFB is consistently brought up as a pain point for Project CARS players. It's an area they are actively focused on bringing the last year or two of community FFB development to be represented in the final product. There have been times when I thought the FFB was amazing, times when it was horrible (if not totally broken) and everything in between. Lately it's been extremely heavy and almost totally lacking in fidelity. I heard about this Tyre Force slider fix from someone on VirtualR but couldn't find the area in WMD where anyone mentions the temporary fix during their recent tweaking.

The Goods:

If you've been disappointed with recent builds: turn down the Tyre Force to between 20-30 for most cars. It's a massive difference!

At least for right now (dev tweaking not withstanding), this restores the overall fidelity of FFB in the game to a great level easily on par and sometimes better than with Assetto Corsa.

I was having a blast driving the Mercedes SLS around the Nordschleife after the FFB fix, reducing brake pressure a bit and fixing the bias to a normal front-bias level. I recommend everyone try it out.
"
 
read this on another post and totally agree with the tyre force thing

"
PSA for Project CARS: Change the Tyre Force to Fix FFB (self.simracing)

submitted 5 months ago * by Sir_Hugs_A_Lot

Backstory:

I frequent the WMD forums periodically as well as this subreddit daily and VirtualR. FFB is consistently brought up as a pain point for Project CARS players. It's an area they are actively focused on bringing the last year or two of community FFB development to be represented in the final product. There have been times when I thought the FFB was amazing, times when it was horrible (if not totally broken) and everything in between. Lately it's been extremely heavy and almost totally lacking in fidelity. I heard about this Tyre Force slider fix from someone on VirtualR but couldn't find the area in WMD where anyone mentions the temporary fix during their recent tweaking.

The Goods:

If you've been disappointed with recent builds: turn down the Tyre Force to between 20-30 for most cars. It's a massive difference!

At least for right now (dev tweaking not withstanding), this restores the overall fidelity of FFB in the game to a great level easily on par and sometimes better than with Assetto Corsa.

I was having a blast driving the Mercedes SLS around the Nordschleife after the FFB fix, reducing brake pressure a bit and fixing the bias to a normal front-bias level. I recommend everyone try it out.
"

http://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/2mp8vg/psa_for_project_cars_change_the_tyre_force_to_fix/
Go here for good FFB info. post 1773.
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/latest-build-testing.55666/page-89
 
read this on another post and totally agree with the tyre force thing/

5 months ago tire force at 20-30 was perfect. However since then I understood that all cars were rebalanced and tire force no longer needs to be dropped down.

I'll agree with you at the moment that Thrustmaster wheels are pretty firm at stock settings, especially if you turn up the force feedback setting to 100%. But not sure reducing tire force is the answer. Still it's probably wise to put 100% force and a lower value of tire force to get more balanced FFB particularly for the T500....

I'll do some experimenting this evening, see what feels good. And keep an eye on WMD forums.
 
point taken but at that lower level it feels more realistic, what else am i missing?

also is the car specific swindle arm value, just another term for specific car ffb multiplier like rf2 option?

cheers
 
i can tell you from playing the leaked build it was best to turn TF down yes. dont think thats the case anymore tho i havent experimented w/ it yet

do you guys have any surface feel, thats the main complaint i have rn & keep see popping up..
 
i mean track bumps etc. found one way to do it, no idea if its optimal -- half the x/y values, double z, double master spindle (set mine at 50). ffb is still communicative & i have some communication from the track now as well. i think alternately i couldve just doubled the z axis thing...idk wtf im doing
 
Guys, remember that if your wheel feels too heavy and is uncomfortable to drive with, lower the FFB strength in the wheel driver / windows control panel. Do not ever lower it within the game, unless you do it by a tiny bit through the tire force / spindle multiplier. But even here I suggest not going too far.. instead turn it down at driver level. This way you make sure you have the highest possible FFB resolution coming from the game.

Example: On my Logitech DFGT I have the logitech control panel main FFB strength set to 92%

Example 2: On my Thrustmaster TX 458 when I get tired I usually set the main strength slider down to 55 (!!). Normally it's at around 75.
 
Guys, remember that if your wheel feels too heavy and is uncomfortable to drive with, lower the FFB strength in the wheel driver / windows control panel. Do not ever lower it within the game, unless you do it by a tiny bit through the tire force / spindle multiplier. But even here I suggest not going too far.. instead turn it down at driver level. This way you make sure you have the highest possible FFB resolution coming from the game.

Example: On my Logitech DFGT I have the logitech control panel main FFB strength set to 92%

Example 2: On my Thrustmaster TX 458 when I get tired I usually set the main strength slider down to 55 (!!). Normally it's at around 75.
Hi bmanic, you seem to be a man with the knowledge. I am also running a DFGT could you possibly list your settings so I cna get the best from pcars. It feels quite good already think I have the logitech profiler set okay what about your other settings. Road feel seems to be lacking at the moment.
 
tyre force at 100 just doesn't feel right to me..



also i never change my prof wheel ffb, as i have many games to change it back n forth i only do it per game.



Anyhow tyre force what does it do... feel like a canned resistance to me..
 
hi bman, what do you think of adjusting the master spindle value up significantly (almost 2x)? ive used it to 2x vertical load for now. steerings a bit too heavy so ill have to tweak more but i have something closer to the surface feel i want.
 
Guys, remember that if your wheel feels too heavy and is uncomfortable to drive with, lower the FFB strength in the wheel driver / windows control panel. Do not ever lower it within the game, unless you do it by a tiny bit through the tire force / spindle multiplier. But even here I suggest not going too far.. instead turn it down at driver level. This way you make sure you have the highest possible FFB resolution coming from the game.

Example: On my Logitech DFGT I have the logitech control panel main FFB strength set to 92%

Example 2: On my Thrustmaster TX 458 when I get tired I usually set the main strength slider down to 55 (!!). Normally it's at around 75.


right okay ill eat my words this does feel better, but it does feel real springy the wheel that is. Anything to stop how springy the wheel is.. now I can feel the rumble strips too.

UPDATE

actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.
 
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Weird, there should be a big difference. It is possible that they have now fixed it so that it actually "talks" with the driver thus being basically the same value but it used to be so that ingame you must have it at 100 or you lose dynamic range.

By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.

Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still :( ):

Spindle Master Scale = 36
Fx = 100
Fy = 60
Fz = 60
Mz = 110
Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).

Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.
 
Hi bmanic, you seem to be a man with the knowledge. I am also running a DFGT could you possibly list your settings so I cna get the best from pcars. It feels quite good already think I have the logitech profiler set okay what about your other settings. Road feel seems to be lacking at the moment.

I'll hook up my DFGT this weekend and let you know. I usually drove a very heavily Mz based setup (Mz being the "twisting forces" of the tire simulation) with my DFGT as it has such quick and detailed FFB (detailed in a very different way to my belt driven TX 458). This means that the main settings for getting "road feel" and such is through the car setup menu.. the garage. There is a FFB tab and you could try these kinds of settings (from memory though so experiment a bit).

Spindle Master Scale 32 to 45 depending on car and how much downforce it produces (and if you turn down the various Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz values you need to compensate here)
Fx = 70
Fy = 56
Fz = 50
Mz = 100

In the main controller preferences I was running something like this:

Tighten Center Range = 0.1
Range falloff = 0.01

Relative Gain = 1.0
Relative Bleed = 0.06
Relative Clamp = 0.96

Scoop Knee = around 0.75
Scoop Knee Reduction = probably around 0.1 to 0.3 (this setting can be used to exaggerate bumps and kerbs)

Anyhow, I'll know more end of this weekend. In the mean while, experiment and don't forget to check the FFB settings in the car setup menu!
 
EDIT: also forgot to mention that you guys should definitely remove all Fx filtering in the car setup/garage FFB tab. There's a filtering control for each element and all cars have some filtering applied to Fx by default. Remove that.
 
wont lie ive found the ffb setting process a tad frustrating ive resorted to setting FFB 100 Tyre Force 100 then adjusting each cars Master gain..

for instance as the f1 car creates the most drag the ffb is the heaviest and as you can see my master is at 10.
 
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I think a lot of your settings u post mate are already in game.. This is my f1 car setup everything default apart from the master at 10.

148ng44.jpg
 
wont lie ive found the ffb setting process a tad frustrating ive resorted to setting FFB 100 Tyre Force 100 then adjusting each cars Master gain..

for instance as the f1 car creates the most drag the ffb is the heaviest and as you can see my master is at 10.

Actually, you are doing it right. The idea is to get the global settings close, and then tune each car individually if needed inside the car setup.

FWIW, I don't mess with the default FFB Strength setting. I only alter the Tire Force setting for the globals.
 

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