Paddle Shifter problems - Fanatec GT3 v2

Warren Dawes

Premium
I'm currently having problems with the Paddle Shifter, the left one keeps sticking on after I click it. So, when trying to change down one gear it often drops 2, or 3, sometimes even into reverse. You can imagine the impact on the car. :confused:
I can see the light coming on and staying on in the Wheel Calibration screen, so I know it is sticking (or something similar).
If I keep flicking it, or wobbling it, it usually frees up again, but it makes shifting this way useless. After continual use over a period of time (eg. 1 hour) it seems to improve.

Is there a simple fix I can try, eg. spray something into that area? I'm not keen on pullling the whole thing apart if I can avoid it.
I've had similar problems with the right hand paddle but it seems ok right now.

I must say, the Paddle Shifters on these Wheels are very flimsy and well below the quality of the rest of the wheel. :( I wish there was a more permanent fix / mod to make the clicking precise, similar to the G25.
 
Warren Dawes Similar story here, only left paddle keeps double downshifts occasionaly. Fortunately I solved the issue. You could either open wheel and replace those rubber caps or modified switches as I did.

I've been able to open my wheel somehow without damaging it and discovered deformed and damaged switch caps on both paddle shifters.

DSC02400x.jpg


I replaced switches with lighter action and custom length. The original switches were 1,5mm long and mine are 2,5mm:

DSC02402x.jpg


I used springs instead of rubber caps. They hold firmly and can't drop out of there:

DSC02403x.jpg


New switches in place:

DSC02405x.jpg


I like the travel and action of new switches when there is just a resistance at first with travel about 2mm and then click. The transition is quite good with satisfying click. Downshifts with fast cars are faster. I really like the new feel.
 
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I finally got my Paddles working again. A friend of mine (with electronics skills) pulled it apart.
The switches on the circuit board were both broken, one had a hole through it and the other was badly cracked. Bit disappointing after only having the Wheel for less than a year. He replaced the switches and used the springs as per Marian's post above, much better now.
Thanks to all for the help.
 
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I know it's an old thread, but I figure this seems to be a good place to get help.

My GT3 RS V2 has lately started giving a lot of problems with double shifting. The paddles feel clumsy and they have no click at all now. Too much paddle shifting :p

I contacted Fanatec Support and I was told that I may have to replace the Rim PCB. I could send the wheel for repair but it costs $63 plus delivery cost. It's all the way in California while I'm in New Jersey so the delivery cost, I'm assuming, would be very high. Might as well buy a new wheel.

Now, looking at this thread, replacing the Rim PCB may not be the solution but instead do what was done in this thread and replace the switches and rubber caps. Where can I purchase/obtain the switches and the rubber caps? Or should I use springs?
 
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I've got this problem just starting where my upshifts jump 2 gears. I've found the following on how to strip down the wheel if anybodies interested.

And some good discussion on the gearshift paddle microswitches Here

I'm not sure if these are the type but I've found these and these at Maplin in the U.K. and will try it out an report back.

Edit: I opened my wheel and found the rubber cap over the paddle microswitch torn. I used the used a rubber cap from that covers the bottom centre rocker button and placed the old one over the rocker switch. Both seem to work fine now :) Result.
 
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