Noob looking for setup

I will give it a try this is a bit overwhelming for first timer but fun to learn !!
For a first timer, you'd be better off running default camber (maybe give it -1 on front) and turn off traction control. SLS is a bit of an exception setup wise when compared to vast majority of street cars in AC.
Max negative camber is only good for pushing it really really hard, a "first timer" will be slower with it.

Also if you are not modulating the brakes much (pushing fully), try reducing braking force to 80% (minimum).
 
For a first timer, you'd be better off running default camber (maybe give it -1 on front) and turn off traction control. SLS is a bit of an exception setup wise when compared to vast majority of street cars in AC.
Max negative camber is only good for pushing it really really hard, a "first timer" will be slower with it.

Also if you are not modulating the brakes much (pushing fully), try reducing braking force to 80% (minimum).
I have the thrustmaster T3PA Pedals with the brake mod. Where do I go to reduce break force ? In the game ?
 
The reason behind going max negative camber is that road car suspension coming out of the factory aren't designed to run on semi slick. Since it grip so much, the car roll much more which result the need of more negative camber. This allow better contact surface for the tire & a much faster cornering speed.

Leaving the camber on stock value doesn't make much sense as it force you to drive outside how the game is designed to be driven. The probability to ruin your gaming performance & understanding the driving model is high.

All gain is done by braking late & use taking advantage of the grip mid entry which force the suspension to be highly compressed.

It's always fascinating.
 
The inertia of the rubber downforce is the main thing to exploit simracing divebomb physics.

High camber improves the yaw alignment of the rear wing. Contact patch.

A glass of water is oversteer. Im being trolled by all the good sim drivers in the world.
 
Ive tried both ways full negative camber 34 psi on all and ive tried default as well 138.9 is the best I can get. Slipping and sliding all over the place especially the fronts they wont stay glued to the track they just want to plow forward. Please!!! I also once in a while get a message in sidekick saying reduce ffb gain I have no idea what that means??
 
Plow forward = you are too hard on the brakes, or using no brakes at all. Put 5-15% of braking force and front will pull into oversteer. You might also be steering too much. If you go to audio options and (in launcher) and set "tyre skid volume onset" to 150% (which imho is more realistic anyways) you'll hear skid right as the tyres go over maximum grip threshold. With that you can focus on turning as much as possible without hearing loud tyre squeal.

Thou don't expect the car to bite swiftly anyway, it has too much power to grip so suspension had to be made to in an understeery fasion to handle the power.

Also lines are quite important for LS, if you want to see how a 1.34 lap looks like, I've made small camber comparison vid. Top video has max negative camber and sound comes from right speaker, bottom one is default camber and left speaker. Except for T4, bottom has better lines thanks to more stable balance.
To reduce FFB gain - there are several ways to do that. If you want to adjust FFB just for that car, use + and - on the numpad to change FFB force when on track. You also can reduce the gain globally for all cars, in launcher -> options -> controls -> Advanced (tab) -> first slider is FFB gain. Both settings add up, so focus on only one.
It's most likely that you have ffb gain at 100% and it normally generates some clipping, with good wheel that you have i think it's ok to drop it to ~85% or less to avoid it.
 

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