New wheel - what to do?

Alex72 · Sep 30, 2018

Hi guys,

With a new wheel should i delete some old file(s) or just change wheel in the settings? Wondering what is best to do for a clean proper change of wheels.

Cheers.

Pecos Bill · Sep 30, 2018

New profile worked best for me.

Jacco van der Zaag · Sep 30, 2018

Start with a fresh profile. That's better than conflicting files/configs.

Alex72 · Sep 30, 2018

Jacco van der Zaag said:
Start with a fresh profile. That's better than conflicting files/configs.

Thanks mate.

Case_ · Oct 1, 2018

Shouldn't really be needed, though. Just creating a new control preset, preferably by loading one of the default ones corresponding to your new wheel, and then customizing it should be enough.

CMGARAGE · Oct 1, 2018

Yeah, pretty sure I did what Martin suggested when I went from a G27 to a T300. Haven't experienced any problems yet. You'll possibly want to spend a little time binding your control scheme to what you're familiar with.

Alex72 · Oct 1, 2018

CMGARAGE said:
Yeah, pretty sure I did what Martin suggested when I went from a G27 to a T300. Haven't experienced any problems yet. You'll possibly want to spend a little time binding your control scheme to what you're familiar with.

What do you think of the T300? I got the GT version, Fanatec Elite pedals with clutch and the SHH shifter. Had the DFGT before, lulz.

Alex72 · Oct 1, 2018

Martin Fiala said:
Shouldn't really be needed, though. Just creating a new control preset, preferably by loading one of the default ones corresponding to your new wheel, and then customizing it should be enough.

Cheers, Martin! A bit easier. I will test and see.

CMGARAGE · Oct 2, 2018

Alex72 said:
What do you think of the T300? I got the GT version, Fanatec Elite pedals with clutch and the SHH shifter. Had the DFGT before, lulz.

Nothing wrong with the humble DFGT. Countless simracers cut their teeth on that loveable lump of plastic, myself included.

I've had my T300 for about a year now. I'm very happy with it. It replaced a G27 that had broken. It's a step up from that but not as great a leap as I'd imagined reading reviews and comments. Considering the G27 is a step up from the DFGT though it'll hopefully feel like a marked improvement for you.

Give yourself a little time to adjust to it. You should have a noticebly stronger FFB with a little more definition, especially around the centre. I had to re-learn to catch slides, for example, as you shake that old muscle memory for how much counter-force your arms have to resist against the FFB.

I found there was subtle differences between the key bindings between the keyboard shortcuts for the Logitech and Thrustmaster presets e.g car labels set to TAB and tilde. With a wide selection of rims in the Thrustmaster range the wheel button mappings translate differently to each rim so may feel unintuative. Set aside a little time to go over the bindings and assign them to a position you're most comfortable with.

Alex72 · Oct 3, 2018

CMGARAGE said:
Nothing wrong with the humble DFGT. Countless simracers cut their teeth on that loveable lump of plastic, myself included.

I've had my T300 for about a year now. I'm very happy with it. It replaced a G27 that had broken. It's a step up from that but not as great a leap as I'd imagined reading reviews and comments. Considering the G27 is a step up from the DFGT though it'll hopefully feel like a marked improvement for you.

Give yourself a little time to adjust to it. You should have a noticebly stronger FFB with a little more definition, especially around the centre. I had to re-learn to catch slides, for example, as you shake that old muscle memory for how much counter-force your arms have to resist against the FFB.

I found there was subtle differences between the key bindings between the keyboard shortcuts for the Logitech and Thrustmaster presets e.g car labels set to TAB and tilde. With a wide selection of rims in the Thrustmaster range the wheel button mappings translate differently to each rim so may feel unintuative. Set aside a little time to go over the bindings and assign them to a position you're most comfortable with.

Full agreement although i felt the DFGT had stronger light to mid FFB detail, but it might be because i still havent figured out where the damn Thrustmaster control panel is, lol.

When i open the said control panel it just has that typical old school Windows look and no fancy sliders for FFB and only a "Calibrate" option. I might have missed the "Advanced" button im not sure. Have to check it today.

Other than that the force is stronger which makes it much easier to drift or catch slides since the autocentering force is stronger. The DFGT shaked my arms more when the wheel was centered and slight steering as i went over bumpy tarmac though, and i think this might be because the FFB isnt setup properly thanks to that i havent touched the control panel yet. I hope so at least. Another thing i noticed that might be down to the same issue is that the T300 is much heavier to steer - at all times. Like its always working against you. Like FFB is always applied like some dampening is applied. I hope the control panel FFB settings will fix these 2 issues i find not so nice.

The keybindings is indeed different and i had to put "look backwards" on the top right button closest to the thumb (that single button sticking up to the right) and i miss pushing the look left/right all the time by pressing the wrong buttons, lol.

I will learn eventually hehe.

Alex72 · Oct 4, 2018

I found the control panel finally, lol. Weird thing is when i set the wheel to 900 degrees then i can turn it to each side and it shows 0% and 100% on each side (meaning it turns perfectly to each side fully), but when i set the wheel to 1080 degrees it wont go all the way to each side. It stops at about 2,3% to the left and 97,7% to the right. Then again "default" sets it at 900 degrees. Strange though because this wheel should be 1080 degrees. Any ideas?

EDIT: Dude! Without dampening 100% the wheel feels awesome now.

I knew it must have been dampening but i couldnt find the damn control panel for the wheel, lol.

Case_ · Oct 4, 2018

Alex72 said:
when i set the wheel to 1080 degrees it wont go all the way to each side. It stops at about 2,3% to the left and 97,7% to the right. Then again "default" sets it at 900 degrees. Strange though because this wheel should be 1080 degrees. Any ideas?

That's normal. The wheels usually have a few degrees of rotation less than what is advertised, so 900 degree wheel often has something like 890 degrees, and if you set T300 to full 1080 degrees, it is actually again a bit less than that. Personally, I just use the default, so 900, especially since some games don't reset the degrees of rotation when you quit out of them and it's easier to just click on the "default" button than fiddle with the slider

1080 is only used by a handful of cars anyway.

Alex72 said:
EDIT: Dude! Without dampening 100% the wheel feels awesome now. I knew it must have been dampening but i couldnt find the damn control panel for the wheel, lol.

Welcome to the wonderful world of placebo

Damper doesn't do anything in AMS, it doesn't matter how you set it, it has no effect on the FFB in AMS. (Well, at least if you're using the "Pure FFB" option, which you should be using anyway. It might be used for some of the effects, though I don't think it is.)

And generally, the advice to set damper and spring to 0 is outdated and wrong - I strongly recommend leaving them on default instead, you generally gain nothing by setting these to 0, but you might actually lose parts of the FFB in some games by doing that. A lot of people will have you believe that these are effects added on top of the FFB that's created by the game, but that's not how it works anymore (it used to, years ago, with some of the wheels, which is where this advice originated). These are now fully programmable and if the developers of the game decide not to use them, then they're not used, no matter how high you set them.

Stephen O'Sullivan · Oct 4, 2018

There is always something to tinker with, isn't there?

@Martin Fiala I have a DFGT, and therefore have always set the Damper Effect and Spring Effect to zero in my Logitech AMS profile, as per the usual advice. (The Centring Spring Strength is set to 10% because I seem to remember Niels Heusinkveld recommending this for older wheels like the DFGT.) Are you saying that I should set the Spring Effect Strength to 100%?

Case_ · Oct 4, 2018

@Stephen O'Sullivan As far as I know, the above should apply to DFGT as well. So in regard to AMS specifically, there should be no difference in the perceived FFB regardless of how you set spring and damper. But I can't be 100 % sure, it's been a while since I had the DFGT. I am however 100 % sure about that when it comes to T300 or any other fairly modern TM wheel.

Stephen O'Sullivan · Oct 4, 2018

Thank you.

Alex72 · Oct 4, 2018

Stephen O'Sullivan said:
There is always something to tinker with, isn't there?

@Martin Fiala I have a DFGT, and therefore have always set the Damper Effect and Spring Effect to zero in my Logitech AMS profile, as per the usual advice. (The Centring Spring Strength is set to 10% because I seem to remember Niels Heusinkveld recommending this for older wheels like the DFGT.) Are you saying that I should set the Spring Effect Strength to 100%?

The damper sure do things for DFGT. It makes it heavier to turn the wheel. Its for people who want more resistance to turning the wheel.