New AMS MetalMoro AJR Prototype Previews Revealed..

Paul Jeffrey

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AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 2.jpg

With a new build to Automobilista right around the corner, Reiza Studios have revealed preview images of the all new MetalMoro AJR prototype...

Announced in the October Development Roadmap alongside such goodies as new TV overlays and turbo model, race weekend simulation elements and a new Spielberg update, the AJR MetalMoro is an exciting free piece of content that looks set to feature a variety of different power units from the likes of Chevy, Honda, Judd and Powertec, even making use of the new turbo model...

It looks weird and its made in Brazil, check out the previews below;

AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 3.jpg


Reiza have confirmed the new car will indeed come at no additional cost to players of Automobilista, and forms part of a larger update to the base game that looks set to bring "several valuable updates" to the title.

Automobilista is a racing simulation available exclusively to PC and developed by Reiza Studios.

AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 5.jpg AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 6.jpg AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 7.jpg AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype 4.jpg AMS MetalMoro AJR prototype.jpg

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Looking forward to the new car? The next build for AMS sound exciting to you? Let us know in the comments section below!
 
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I tried the AJR with a friend and we both said the same thing, something is up with the FFB, it is lifeless, it feels like it is saturated , you turn a corner and the resistance is smooth as silk, no road feel? surely we are not the only ones ?
We both have a Fanatec V2.5 , not sure if this has anything to do with it.
Maybe i will try turning down the reelfeel setting?
This does not have a FFB meter does it to see if its clipping?
 
I tried the AJR with a friend and we both said the same thing, something is up with the FFB, it is lifeless, it feels like it is saturated , you turn a corner and the resistance is smooth as silk, no road feel? surely we are not the only ones ?
We both have a Fanatec V2.5 , not sure if this has anything to do with it.
Maybe i will try turning down the reelfeel setting?
This does not have a FFB meter does it to see if its clipping?
Well the car is still on beta so I think there will be some fine adjustment before and after release. FFB works good on my side (G27).
 
Well the car is still on beta so I think there will be some fine adjustment before and after release. FFB works good on my side (G27).
Same here!
They all feel different.
FFB is one of the best in AMS for me.
It gets gradually stronger with higher speeds - excellent feel for weight shifts.

Overall, they're brilliant! I love them all!
I've even given them nicknames:
Chevy V8 --> The Beast (because of 615 Nm torque)
Judd V10 --> The Audi-R8-FormulaV10-Hybrid (because of the engine sound)
Honda Turbo --> The Hissler (because of the turbo noise)
Powertec V8 --> The Reliable/Reasonable (because the Powertec is so easy/comfortable to drive)
 
Reiza Studios is a classic example of why you don't need to spend $60-90 each and every single year for a 'new' version of simulation software.
Just think of how much money you've saved while they were optimizing the features of that 'old' engine...all the while, charging only a small fraction of a new game.
The darn thing is as relevant today, as all the 'new' sims on the market.
The tracks and cars look better than some of those... the feel is exceptional... there is little to no flickering and great frame-rate.
I'd call that a 'win' by any means.
 
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I fired the game up for the first time in a while and the ffb and base Thrustmaster tx setting is terrible in the live version. The wheel just oscilates and shakes the second you release your hands causing the cars to go into an uncontrolable tank slapper.
Cars tested
V8 ute
Renault touring car
Brazilian Classic touring car
Wheel feels like iam using less than 200 defrees of rotation and really twitchy?

Also is there a way to avoid having to reconfigure your wheel after every update and to have your wheel revert back to 900 after playing the game.
This issue has been present for over a yr now with the thrustmaster tx profile.

Ingame
FFB 80%
Auto rotation enabled

Thrustmaster profile
900
80/100/100/0/0
 
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I fired the game up for the first time in a while and the ffb and base Thrustmaster tx setting is terrible in the live version. The wheel just oscilates and shakes the second you release your hands causing the cars to go into an uncontrolable tank slapper.
Also is there a way to avoid having to reconfigure your wheel after every update and to have your wheel revert back to 900 after playing the game.
This issue has been present for over a yr now with the thrustmaster tx profile.8
TS-PC here, no problems at all:thumbsup:
 
I fired the game up for the first time in a while and the ffb and base Thrustmaster tx setting is terrible in the live version. The wheel just oscilates and shakes the second you release your hands causing the cars to go into an uncontrolable tank slapper.
Also is there a way to avoid having to reconfigure your wheel after every update and to have your wheel revert back to 900 after playing the game.
This issue has been present for over a yr now with the thrustmaster tx profile.
Might be worth backing up your profile folder and create a fresh one to see if it is better. I kind of to remember Reiza suggested a new profile in an update a few months ago; yours is maybe older than that. T300 here, pretty close to the TX, and I find it great…:)
Also is there a way to avoid having to reconfigure your wheel after every update and to have your wheel revert back to 900 after playing the game.
I don't think there is a solution there: the game adjusts the rotation to the car you drive but is not able to reset when exiting.
 
I tried the AJR with a friend and we both said the same thing, something is up with the FFB, it is lifeless, it feels like it is saturated , you turn a corner and the resistance is smooth as silk, no road feel? surely we are not the only ones ?
We both have a Fanatec V2.5 , not sure if this has anything to do with it.
Maybe i will try turning down the reelfeel setting?
This does not have a FFB meter does it to see if its clipping?

FFB perfect out of the box here, as it is 95% of the time in AMS. But I have the older CSW that isn't plagued with the problems in every sim that the 2.5 has. I would be infuriated if I had upgraded to that wheel and had to fiddle so much to get proper FFB that comes automatically to most other wheels.
 
FFB perfect out of the box here, as it is 95% of the time in AMS. But I have the older CSW that isn't plagued with the problems in every sim that the 2.5 has. I would be infuriated if I had upgraded to that wheel and had to fiddle so much to get proper FFB that comes automatically to most other wheels.
Cheers marc, not sure what you mean by fiddle so much? For me the 2.5 has been flawless, this is the only car for me that feels like its clipping. Best wheel base I have owned until I get DD of course lol
 
I tried the AJR with a friend and we both said the same thing, something is up with the FFB, it is lifeless, it feels like it is saturated , you turn a corner and the resistance is smooth as silk, no road feel? surely we are not the only ones ?
We both have a Fanatec V2.5 , not sure if this has anything to do with it.
Maybe i will try turning down the reelfeel setting?
This does not have a FFB meter does it to see if its clipping?
Hey Tony, i've tried the ARJ Honda, FFB feels fine to me, i'm using an old CSR elite. I'm just surprised by the amount of rear grip (especially low speed mechanical grip) they have, not easy to break traction at all, maybe thats why not much variation in the FFB strength. Or maybe you've being sliding the Cat too much recently... :laugh:
 

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