DiRT Rally 2.0 My T300 FFB settings

[Case_]

In case anybody is interested, here are my FFB settings for DR2 on the T300 which I'm pretty satisfied with (see more below):

(Updated the image for the current state of the FFB in the game.)

Please note that if you raise the FFB gain on a T300 beyond the default 75 %, you really should be using the forced fan mode that keeps the fan running at all times (then again you should probably be using that mode even when not raising the gain).

I am using soft lock with the wheel set to 1080 degrees, but I have the driver hands disabled and only the virtual wheel is shown, because if I enable driver hands, the virtual wheel rotation doesn't match the real wheel (a bug, I assume).

As for the FFB settings themselves, they don't transform the FFB significantly, so the road noise is still quite low in the mix, but it is definitely there. I'm not a fan of those supposed XML "fixes", because from what I've tried, they introduce more issues than they solve (and I can come up with several reasons of why I think that is the result), no matter how you tweak them. I also have no problem feeling the suspension, wheel grip and all that without them (even though it definitely varies between cars - as it should). I would like the wheel friction to be higher for the wheel to not be as loose, but it seems to also hide detail in the FFB if you raise it, so I keep it low.

I'd certainly like the road detail to come out a bit more in the FFB, but other than that, I am very satisfied with how the FFB is and I think it's up there with the best and certainly far from "broken", "unplayable" or "non-existent", to quote a few descriptions I've seen. It is very nuanced and detailed, it just doesn't hit you over the head with the information it provides.

 

[Case_]

I don't think there's a way for me to answer your question, since I have no idea how strong it is on your end. I wouldn't say it fits your description on my end, it certainly doesn't feel like driving a very heavy boat to me. The settings aim to utilize as much of the dynamic range available by the wheel and the game without clipping (that part is just guesstimated based on experience with other sims that have proper FFB meters available), which is how I believe the FFB should always be set on these consumer wheels (meaning - outside of direct drive wheels). I would even say that I don't like a particularly heavy wheel and tend to go for the lighter side of FFB.

Also, many people seem to prefer much heavier settings than me, by far the most frequent complaint about DR2's FFB was how weak it is.

 

[Case_]

Talking about the FFB in another thread I realized I didn't post the slightly tweaked settings I've been using lately, so why not post them now...but they're quite similar to the previous ones and basically just include some tweaks to suit more cars better (since we don't have individual FFB strength settings per car, so we have to compromise - or tweak the settings for each car, which is highly annoying, so I don't do that).

 

[Eckhart von Glan]

Martin how do you get the "move seat" working since the game only recognizes either the wheel or the keyboard and there is not enough buttons, at least on the t500, to map sth. like seat which is only used once for every car?

 

[Case_]

I have seat controls mapped to the D-pad on my G25 shifter (connected as a standalone device via the Bodnar adapter).

It should also be possible to do a "virtual button box" in SimHub, sending out keyboard commands. Or use SimHub to map long press functionality to your wheel's buttons. Or I've also seen some people simply use a gamepad as a "button box".

 

[Eckhart von Glan]

1. ok, thx for the reply, would have to invest in Hardware then, that's not worth it. Just weird it is not able to deal with two devices at once (wheel and keyboard), my two other games (iR, ACC) are fine with it, and as far as I remember all the games I played before had no problem either. Shame really.

 

[Case_]

Oh, I didn't notice the "recognizes either keyboard or wheel" bit. That's weird, then. I can use keyboard just fine with wheel connected, it's just that I prefer to use the D-pad on my shifter.

 

[Marc Collins]

DR 2 does not recognize my DSD button box. Every other game does. I would prefer to assign a bunch of things to it rather than my wheel.

 

[Green-Promise]

Do you remember which settings you used in DR1?

 

[Case_]

I guess I can take a look if I reinstall DR1...

 

[Case_]

Something like this I guess. It's not exactly what I was using before, there are some differences, but it's what I would use now.

 

[RasmusP]

@Martin Fiala I didn't really spend much time yet with dirt rally 2 and never bothered to care about this in dirt rally 1.
When you pull the handbrake for a hairpin, slide around nicely and then let go of the wheel, it should run into opposite lock on its own.
You would grab it at the right moment, keep it drifting and then manually turn the wheel back into the straight direction.

That's how I do it in Assetto Corsa and in real life on snow.
It's impossible in dirt rally 2 though.

The problem is that the wheel wouldn't run into opposite lock. I'd pull the handbrake, throw the rear of the car and the steering just keeps the position of my flick initiation.
Leading to me just spinning if I don't turn the wheel manually into opposite lock...
Somehow though, the moment the car regains grip, the wheel will spin violently into "opposite lock", now meaning the front wheels turning to the outside of the corner and me spinning into the off.

I think it's one of the friction settings but I couldn't be bothered to test it thoroughly.
Do you have any knowledge of this?
I just put my openwheel rim back on, set the rotation to 380° and do all counter steering manually.

But it bothers me.. I'd love to drift like a boss with more rotation and my round rim. Flicking, letting go, grabbing etc like it's possible in AC

 

[Marc Collins]

@Martin Fiala I didn't really spend much time yet with dirt rally 2 and never bothered to care about this in dirt rally 1.
When you pull the handbrake for a hairpin, slide around nicely and then let go of the wheel, it should run into opposite lock on its own.
You would grab it at the right moment, keep it drifting and then manually turn the wheel back into the straight direction.

That's how I do it in Assetto Corsa and in real life on snow.
It's impossible in dirt rally 2 though.

The problem is that the wheel wouldn't run into opposite lock. I'd pull the handbrake, throw the rear of the car and the steering just keeps the position of my flick initiation.
Leading to me just spinning if I don't turn the wheel manually into opposite lock...
Somehow though, the moment the car regains grip, the wheel will spin violently into "opposite lock", now meaning the front wheels turning to the outside of the corner and me spinning into the off.

I think it's one of the friction settings but I couldn't be bothered to test it thoroughly.
Do you have any knowledge of this?
I just put my openwheel rim back on, set the rotation to 380° and do all counter steering manually.

But it bothers me.. I'd love to drift like a boss with more rotation and my round rim. Flicking, letting go, grabbing etc like it's possible in AC

This is just an extreme indication of a problem with the steering at all times. It's what I called sluggish steering in the other thread. The steering does not self-align relative to momentum in any plausible manner, ever. If we can solve the handbrake turn issue, I am sure it will also solve the regular driving, too.

 

[Case_]

@RasmusP I don't think I can help you. I don't really understand what you're trying to get and/or how to replicate it, and what I get feels fine to me.

 

[Marc Collins]

@RasmusP I don't think I can help you. I don't really understand what you're trying to get and/or how to replicate it, and what I get feels fine to me.

Self-aligning torque that feels plausible and authentic (a la every car in AMS out-of-the-box with zero fiddling). If you have this FFB and feeling in DR 2, the rest of us would like to replicate it!! But the default settings certainly do not provide it, so it would be good to understand which sliders affect what. We already know the SAT slider is not traditional SAT. That's OK, it just means you need a secret decoder ring, or 50 hours of fiddling and experiments, to get an authentic feel (although I have no evidence of it myself, I do believe you that when set-up correctly, DR 2 will feel good).

 

[Deleted member 197115]

@Marc Collins, thanks for advise on playing with overall gain in driver. It does improve FFB esp. around center quite a bit, when you keep in game SAT (or whatever else it affects) up higher. FFB is less spiky too.
First title I had to drop max force in driver to get the right feeling.

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP I don't think I can help you. I don't really understand what you're trying to get and/or how to replicate it, and what I get feels fine to me.

I'll try to make a video

 

[Case_]

Self-aligning torque that feels plausible and authentic (a la every car in AMS out-of-the-box with zero fiddling). If you have this FFB and feeling in DR 2, the rest of us would like to replicate it!!

I have shared my settings in this very thread, that's the reason why the thread is here. I'm not sure what more can I do for you to replicate them, at least not without having access to your hardware to actually "feel" the difference there might be.

We already know the SAT slider is not traditional SAT.

I don't even know what you mean by that, and frankly, I don't really care all that much. I have settings that feel great to me, I have shared them here (see above), and beyond that, I don't really care much about how traditional or untraditional the FFB forces are. And from pretty much every post you make (and not just in this thread), it's also very clear our expectations and observations differ dramatically, with you obviously being way more demanding in this regard to the point of observing various nuances I am not even aware exist, let alone of experiencing them.

 

[RasmusP]

It's gonna take a while for me to create such video but could I bother you to write down an explanation about the different "weight" settings?
For me it feels like one of them might "keep the tyres straight" because of artificial friction while the tarmac/surface should actually turn them.

Or rather they should stay straight in the trajectory direction while the rear is sliding around, resulting in the steering wheel running into opposite lock.

Without the weight settings it's better but I couldn't get behind which one does what yet.

I'd like your input

 

[Marc Collins]

I have shared my settings in this very thread, that's the reason why the thread is here. I'm not sure what more can I do for you to replicate them, at least not without having access to your hardware to actually "feel" the difference there might be.


I don't even know what you mean by that, and frankly, I don't really care all that much. I have settings that feel great to me, I have shared them here (see above), and beyond that, I don't really care much about how traditional or untraditional the FFB forces are. And from pretty much every post you make (and not just in this thread), it's also very clear our expectations and observations differ dramatically, with you obviously being way more demanding in this regard to the point of observing various nuances I am not even aware exist, let alone of experiencing them.

We don't have the same hardware, so your settings are unlikely to be suitable for me. Unless you are suggesting you have come up with the universal settings that Codies should have used in the first place (I do not believe you are suggesting that).

So, like @RasmusP suggests, if someone actually understands what these settings do, it would be nice to have an explanation (of course, Codies should have done this already).

Barring that, just knowing what process you followed to arrive at your great feeling settings would be nice. Or should everyone just follow a random procedure of moving various sliders around until a magical optimum point is reached? It's hard when you have no concept of what the optimum might actually feel like and therefore when you have arrived there. You could fiddle endlessly in hope of improvement. If there was an understanding of what the sliders were supposed to do, some shortening of that process could be imagined.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

The definition of individual FFB settings can be found here https://steamcdn-a.akamaihd.net/ste...i_Input_Device_Configuration.pdf?t=1565279644
I am not sure what magical formula you expect from Martin. He didn't code the sim. There are what, 3 sliders, hardly a rocket science to get them where you like unless something you are looking for is not there.
I am using DD, but my settings now are not far off from Martin's or other 'sensible' settings I saw around.
If any interest, I can post them.