AC Multiclass Abarth 500/Mazda MX5@Cathedral Rock, Wed 4th January 2023

Assetto Corsa Racing Club event
My first thought was now: Performing better IS more fun. ;) But seriously. Of course, better lap times are great. But as I said, my first step back then was big in terms of driving experience. I don't expect to automatically get faster. Just evolve. At the moment I'm thinking: Yes to the DD-wheel, but which one? Thrustmaster? Yes, because my other stuff is also from TM. But does that make sense? I always hear that Fanatec has great stuff. I think you can combine all of that, right? It doesn't have to be the cheapest, I'm willing to pay for quality (not exaggerated of course).

Start with a wheelbase and two steering wheels. Could this be right?
 
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I get what you mean. Getting the T818 is the reasonable choice since you already are in their ecosystem and just have to get the wheelbase, one purchase. Option 2 is sell the lot and put that money into a new ecosystem. Then it's about researching what fits your needs and budget for Wheelbase, Wheelrim(s) and, eventually, a pedal set.

Fanatec is out of stock still (except DD2 bundles). Moza has stock with solid gear on all fronts and price ranges (they are still my Plan B if the T818 doesn't hold up). Asetek is bringing interesting gear (on pre-order). Simucube are wee pricey but great quality. Heusinkveld has pedal sets worth their price tags. There are of course more brands and with some you can mix gear (with Ascher for example) but these are the usual suspects.

If I were to sell my TM lot (T300/TS-PC/T818/TLCM) to buy new gear now, I'd go for the Moza R9 with the CS + GS wheels and a set of Heusinkveld Sprints. :D
 
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My first thought was now: Performing better IS more fun. ;) But seriously. Of course, better lap times are great. But as I said, my first step back then was big in terms of driving experience. I don't expect to automatically get faster. Just evolve. At the moment I'm thinking: Yes to the DD-wheel, but which one? Thrustmaster? Yes, because my other stuff is also from TM. But does that make sense? I always hear that Fanatec has great stuff. I think you can combine all of that, right? It doesn't have to be the cheapest, I'm willing to pay for quality (not exaggerated of course).

Start with a wheelbase and two steering wheels. Could this be right?
That all makes sense!
I'm a bit done with fanatec tbh..
The csl elite pedals needed 2x new pots within the first 6 months. The first time they forgot to actually ship them and I had to ask them about it.
The load cell design was a shame for any engineer (foot position changes brake input by 30% while pressing with the same force due to the load cell measuring the bending of the pedal arm instead of the pressure at the bottom of the push rod).
The v3 pedals start squeaking every few months, the throttle has some initial "clunk" when going back and forth due to play in the spring rod and the brake signal isn't smooth at all and jumps in steps when moving slowly.
They work totally fine though while racing. It's more nitpicking but still... They are the "premium" pedals...

Mclaren V1 rim stopped shifting on day 1. Known issue and I got a different, already repaired rim within 3 days.
It worked completely fine apart from the rattling from all the buttons whenever you rotated the wheel more than 90°.

Sold it and bought the v2 due to the rotarys being infinite +/- buttons and the magnetic shifting mechanism.
It's not the usual magnetic shifting though..
Way too much travel and weird resistance and very loud.
When the shifter stopped shifting within the first month I found a video about putting some felt pads into the shifter bar to reduce the travel and noise.
Took the shifter out and found that a glued on plastic pad wasn't in place anymore.
Glued it back on, put the felt pads in and started to really like that wheel!

I cut out little stripes from the packaging foam and stuffed it around each button. Stopped the rattling!

I then ordered the csl DD to see if I'd get blown away. Returning within Germany is pretty quick and easy so.. Why not!

It was pretty nice but my csw 2.5 is just as good apart from the missing inertia setting for beefier center position feel.

However I noticed some weird "clunk" whenever the ffb kicked in or changed direction.
Found out that the plastic QR of the mclaren v2 had rotational play on the wheelbase shaft.
Known issue of the QR lite...

But the csl dd also has a bit too high tolerances for the shaft and is missing the o-ring to dampen the QR a little.

Sent the csl dd back and now knew what had been feeling a bit weird with the mclaren v2...
It has the same rotational play on the csw 2.5!
However only about 30% and the o-ring helps.

Contacted support but they told me a new QR lite would have the same issue so I could save myself the trouble.
I asked for a reduced price for the metal QR but they replied that the parts of the company have no communication for this so nope.
200€ rim + 100€ QR? No thanks...

Folded paper does the job though :)

But:
My csw 2.5 is from a group of engineers who know what they're doing!
No issues since 2019 and great ffb with very low noise!


The QR 2 is announced since 2 years and shown at every simracing expo etc on their BMW GT3 and Bentley wheel. The Bentley wheel also isn't available although announced since years.

Oh and did you read about the csl dd shafts coming lose?
Or the first batch of the QR lite being too wobbly so pins of the rims broke off?

Yeah... The csw 2.5 can't make up for everything..

The dd1 & dd2 have a little display on the base that can be used for all kinds of stuff.
But since 2 years it's recommended to keep it off or showing the fanatec logo only because it can cause 100% ffb jolts, randomly.

The new csl elite v2 seem to be pretty well engineered though and the csl dd is a great product if they can update the shafts.


Aaaaaanyway:
Either buy the Thrustmaster DD, although it's lacking the friction, inertia and soft lock setting that normal DD wheels have or buy a simucube and be good for the rest of your life.
Buy some heusinkveld pedals alongside and forget about what to buy ever again :)


I would forgive fanatec for all their issues if their marketing would be a bit more humble about it all but they are constantly posting about how great and awesome they are and what cool new stuff they are offering.
After multiple years, it reminds me of project cars...
 
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In other news... this was our photo-finish Robert @Alfred Wayne :

D2379298-6285-48CA-B9D4-BF1AF3FFCC3A.jpeg


The times don't match though, weird, haha!
 

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Thanks again for your help. This all seems really complicated and I don't want to just do anything. :thumbsup:
Yeah just wait a few weeks/months until the T818 got a few driver updates that might implement more settings and get rid of some early issues.
It seems to be a great wheelbase on the hardware side!

About Moza and VRS:
Moza is chinese so the support seems to be hit and miss. Some great stories and some horror stories are floating around.
VRS seems to be really good but compatibility, software and community seems a bit lacking..

Maybe the Google translator did something wrong?
Not sure?
I found your sentence "This all seems really complicated and I don't want to just do anything. :thumbsup:" a bit funny.
Seemed like my wall of text would've been just too much and we scared you off from purchasing anything :roflmao:
 
My experience with Fanatec was similar to yours @RasmusP. The v1 CSL elite pedals have been problematic throughout. The elastomers have deteriorated and the spacers have cracked. Not only did it wear the pedal shaft but it also made braking quite inconsistent.

Fanatec didn't have spare parts for the v1 and refused to sell the spring from the v2 to fit to the v1, effectively rendering the pedals useless. I eventually replaced some of the elastomers and spacers with springs which seems to have helped with the consistency of the pedal feel. Fortunately the springs are fairly easily to find either from commercial spring suppliers or eBay. I believe @JamKart22 has done something similar.

It is nice having a single eco-system and I enjoy being able to swap wheel rims. We have the Mclaren wheel (v2) which I use for GT3s and open wheelers and a round wheel for MX-5s, classics and Eurotruck Simulator 2. Thinking about whether you are likely to want different wheels will impact the choice of wheelbase.

One thing to bear in mind is noise. Our rig gets used quite a lot of use with me and 2 boys all competing for time on it. It can be annoying for other people in the house if the pedals squeak, the wheelbase creaks or other generally annoying noises. Over time our Fanatec kit has got increasingly loud. To the point where I quite often suggest they play Eurotruck simulator 2 as it's a lot quieter.

If there is a next time, I think I would spend more on the pedals (Heusinkveld probably) and then choose a cheaper wheelbase with a wide choice of rims.
 
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My experience with Fanatec was similar to yours @RasmusP. The v1 CSL elite pedals have been problematic throughout. The elastomers have deteriorated and the spacers have cracked. Not only did it wear the pedal shaft but it also made braking quite inconsistent.

Fanatec didn't have spare parts for the v1 and refused to sell the spring from the v2 to fit to the v1, effectively rendering the pedals useless. I eventually replaced some of the elastomers and spacers with springs which seems to have helped with the consistency of the pedal feel. Fortunately the springs are fairly easily to find either from commercial spring suppliers or eBay. I believe @JamKart22 has done something similar.

It is nice having a single eco-system and I enjoy being able to swap wheel rims. We have the Mclaren wheel (v2) which I use for GT3s and open wheelers and a round wheel for MX-5s, classics and Eurotruck Simulator 2. Thinking about whether you are likely to want different wheels

One thing to bear in mind is noise. Our rig gets used quite a lot of use with me and 2 boys all competing for time on it. It can be annoying for other people in the house if the pedals squeak, the wheelbase creaks or other generally annoying noises. Over time our Fanatec kit has got increasingly loud. To the point where I quite often suggest they play Eurotruck simulator 2 as it's a lot quieter.

If there is a next time, I think I would spend more on the pedals (Heusinkveld probably) and then choose a cheaper wheelbase with a wide choice of rims.
What wheelbase do you have?

My csw 2.5 is still brilliantly silent. Depending on the ffb and and especially the smoothing or "FEI" setting.
Anyone saying DD wheels have more details should experience the csw 2.5 with damper "dri" off and FEI at 100.
Getting dragged behind the car on your teeth can be replicated quite realistically, lol.

I can't praise that wheelbase enough but everything else is only good because there was no competition in that budget region.

The pedals can be maintained to be quiet with cleaning and a mix of professional grease and ballistol.
The only thing being quite noisy is when you take your feet off the pedals too quickly or stomp the throttle against the stopper.

But the mclaren rim is pretty loud!

Since you also have the mclaren v2: did you mod it with felt pads?
For me, personally, 80% of the mod is the improved feel when shifting! Only 20% is the massively reduced noise.
I can downshift about 2x as fast due to them. Without them, I can't do Monza T1 in an F1 it even GT3 without my left hand hurting.

It's not complicated. Just take out the steel pin from the top:
- unscrew the QR and take it off
- push the pin out with a small hex key
- put a sheet of paper between your tool and the rim case
- take the pin out while wobbling the shifter bar a bit to keep the pin freely moving
- and the shifter bar will fall out.

Then take a standard felt pad and cut out 2 pieces. If you cut them a bit too big, you won't even need to glue them on.

Here's the video:
 
What wheelbase do you have?

....
The CSL Elite - the belt driven one. I don't find it lacking power. It would be nice if it was more detailed but I can get a lot out of changing the settings. I also find changing rims makes a surprising difference to the feel. The wider CSL wheel feels very different to the Mclaren rim.

The pedals can be maintained to be quiet with cleaning and a mix of professional grease and ballistol.

Yeah, I've been spraying them with silicon and that gives a quiet week . I will try something a bit thicker next time.
...


But the mclaren rim is pretty loud!

Since you also have the mclaren v2: did you mod it with felt pads?
....
Here's the video:
Thanks - I hadn't seen that. I feel I might starting a never ending quest to make our rig quieter!

The real reason we bought the Mclaren rim was because the little one can use the clutch paddles for brake and accelerator as he can't reach the pedals.
 
Not sure?
I found your sentence "This all seems really complicated and I don't want to just do anything. :thumbsup:" a bit funny.
Seemed like my wall of text would've been just too much and we scared you off from purchasing anything :roflmao:
In german: Ich will nicht einfach irgendwas tun.

I don't know if you can translate the sentence into English. Rasmus will understand what I mean.

I'll just wait and see some test videos. The question I keep asking myself is: T818 is good, but for 200-300 euros more you get something much, much, much better? And yes, I would do that. Have to see what that could be.

Thanks again :thumbsup:
 
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The CSL Elite - the belt driven one. I don't find it lacking power. It would be nice if it was more detailed but I can get a lot out of changing the settings. I also find changing rims makes a surprising difference to the feel. The wider CSL wheel feels very different to the Mclaren rim.
Ah, yeah the csl elite is a good base for its price! I was thinking about getting that one instead but it seems to be one of the classic fanatec products with a few issues (luckily rare and not a construction failure like the csl elite brake..).

A friend of mine has fading ffb, but since he drives an oldtimer club racing Renault 5, he wants 100% ffb when simracing.
The optical encoder disk behind the QR can become dirty and the sensor can fail too from what I've read. But that's a rare issue and easy to fix if you know how to open something and do very basic repairs.
Also the belt is a step belt like the Thrustmaster wheel bases compared to the V belts in the csw.
Making it quite a bit louder in general and not as smooth, but still totally fine, detailed and precise.

If you don't have any of the issues, there's nothing wrong with it apart from being a bit louder.
I know a bunch of people being very happy with it! :)

Yeah, I've been spraying them with silicon and that gives a quiet week . I will try something a bit thicker next time.
Greases are a whole engineering topic. Often thought of as a very basic thing but when going into detail, it's pretty interesting with complex fluid dynamic, physical and chemical reactions.

Silicon spray dries out and will only give a wearing off glide surface.
What you want is something that sticks in place and stays just stable at the pressure while moving to not increase the resistance due to being too thick and sticky.

Difficult to nail this, but I've found pedals to never be too sticky/slow.
I can recommend what I'm using for me bike front suspension and saddle spring, attached to the post. Liqui Moly silcone grease.

That stuff is mega sticky and really thick but isn't aggressive against anything.
I mostly apply this with a wooden toothpick.
That would be grease for some pressure parts though like the loadcell elastomers, the throttle rod with the spring etc.

For stuff like the sides of the throttle swivel on the V3s:
1673098070544.png


I'd spray some Ballistol into the gap and work the throttle a little. It's some amazing universal grease! And not melting tyres like WD40 :D
Thanks - I hadn't seen that. I feel I might starting a never ending quest to make our rig quieter!

The real reason we bought the Mclaren rim was because the little one can use the clutch paddles for brake and accelerator as he can't reach the
Haha yeah the clutch paddles are awesome for kids! My nephew enjoys them too from time to time when my sister visits us :)
 

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The question I keep asking myself is: T818 is good, but for 200-300 euros more you get something much, much, much better?

I have good news, Barry Rowland (Sim Racing Garage) got a T818 and the review should be out this month... he is the guy that opens up the hardware and gives critique to every piece, even the screws. That shall deliver more than thorough insights :thumbsup:
 
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Seems like everyone goes on a journey of discovery with Fanatec Kit...

I have CSL DD 8Nm wheel base, McLaren GT3 V2 rim and CSL Elite V1 pedals with load cell

Pedals
Note they were second hand off ebay.
o The accelerator started becoming non linear due to a faulty pot. You can actually get the pot out and a bit of cleaning sorted it for now. If it's really bad then you could swap it with the clutch pot (I rarely use the clutch)
o The LC has this crappy bit of foam that is suppose to take up slack but its not a particually nice feeling. Manage to source some springs (that are similar to those in the V2 pedals) and they feel much nicer. PM me if you want the supplier.

Rim
o Noticed the noisy paddles straight away and fitted the pads as described in the video
o The QR Lite supplied with the wheel wasn't able to hold the wheel firm enough and you had some play when turning from side to side - a pretty basic requirement for a wheel! Fanatec said it was due to the various tolerances of the different wheel rims. They did say they'd reengineered the QR Lite and I could have one of those free of charge. The new QR Lite enables you to tighten the wheel more. The previous version has some mechanical stop inside so it could only be tighten so far. Seems fine now.

DD Base
o The power to the rim would stop - bit of a pain mid race.
My base is attached to a desk with the clamp. The clamp itself does a reasonable job of holding it to the desk but you can only tighten it so far and it would work loose (I lostmy only possible victory when I pulled it off the desk on the last lap :(). This movement causes the shaft to work it's way out of the base. The shaft is held on by a bracket that's tighten with a bolt. At the end of the shaft is a USB plug and if the shaft creeps out then the USB plug comes out and you lose power. Since my tragic lost win I've now screwed the clamp to the desk and the wheel rim has rarely lost power. I do keep an eye on it and if I can see it's moved then I slacken the bracket and push the shaft back in.

Saying all this I still love this kit. It's all part of the hobby understand the various quirks of the gear!
 
The new QR Lite enables you to tighten the wheel more. The previous version has some mechanical stop inside so it could only be tighten so far. Seems fine now.
I'm gonna contact them and ask for the updated QR lite!
Mine has the stop and isn't tight without some paper in the groove to make it rotationally tight.

When did you get yours? I'll dig out my emails from when I contacted them and got told that there's no solution...
 
I'm gonna contact them and ask for the updated QR lite!
Mine has the stop and isn't tight without some paper in the groove to make it rotationally tight.

When did you get yours? I'll dig out my emails from when I contacted them and got told that there's no solution...
June 2022
 
Got a new QR Lite in transit to me :)
Gonna do a quick comparison if I can spot any difference!
I couldn't see any difference and the packaging was the same. You should just notice that you can tighten it up more without hitting a stop. Did they acknowledge that it had been modified?
 

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