Motion system with 10000$ budget

I have a rig with a tactile system built which i feel pretty good but from what i have read in this forum i with all probabity have no idea what i really good tactil system feels like.

Besides improving it which i think should be the first thing before going for a motion system i am thinking and thinking (or dreaming and dreaming) about what a motion route go for.

I like actuators because of the heave, and pitch to surf the road, but i see people with actuators and still using a seat mover to kind of feel de G-forces (even not sustained).So i am wandering which combination would work best for me:

1-Actuators+Seat mover (No traction loss, i am not building a >4 actuators setup in my room)
2-Actuators with G-seat (Simulated traction loss, and i wander if a g-seat fully replace seat mover)
3-Next limit Traction loss + Seat mover/Gseat (Missing the heave and pitch, but really would like to know how that nexlimit traction loss platform feels,if someone have it and can tell)

Or any other combination you find the best for you,i am just pointing these 3 out.

A G-Belt could fit on any i guess.

If you had around 10000$ what motion system would you build?(Not including pedals/wheel,shifter).
 
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blekenbleu

SimHub+Arduino hacker
Premium
do you think
Those isolators reportedly flex too much under braking;
@Andrew_WOT reports good results with these:
After riding on semi flexy rubber bobbins for a few months replaced them with much harder neoprene spacers that can also get pre-torqued to different stiffness level. Much better stability almost if not the same as bolted directly to the profile but isolate just as well as rubber bobbins. View attachment 516790

View attachment 516791

Parts to use:
 
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Something I am wondering is how well a 50mm travel simulates traction loss ...
With my 150mm platform, anytime I initiate Traction loss, the platform starts leaning right or left (simulating sway i guess) and snaps me back my neck back to neutral when i get traction back..it's a great feeling and at the moment, makes me wonder if a traction loss would be needed in the future...(maybe just belt tensioner coupled with that TL effect is enough).. . I'm wondering how strong that effect could be with only 50mm...
Another point is that I like to free roam on bumpy roads (e.g: highlands in AC or PCH) in road cars or even race cars, and i imagine (let me emphasize on the word on that word because I've never driven anything but 150mm) the 150mm platform gives a bit more on those kind of roads... If one is only interested in GT3 racing, maybe not as much...
I'll try to upload a video
 
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Note: my spike filter (if i understand correctly, it limits actuators travel in case of violent shocks) is a bit lower because of downstairs neighbors complaining .. it's at 1800 on AC and only 1000 on ams2 because on tracks like bathhurst or nurburgring it can shake very strongly .. spa on the other hand, the road texture is very smooth
 
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metalnwood

Premium
I am about to install 4 Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 at the back of my seat.

Is there a guide on how to do it?.Ive seen some post in the forum with advices but do not remember where.

Peter has some information here

RCHeliguy has posts with a pic from about here.
 
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I've finished mounting the buttkickers LFE under the pedals and Seat. Tried them with a T.amp D4 500 (500w 4ohm per channel) until the NX3000D arrives.I get little shake with that power but enough to test the isolation setups.

I first implemented rubber bobins under 2 brackets on each 4 corners under the seat as TonyNN has it, but the seat end up very attached to the rig and vibrations did not come through so i thought on trying without the bobins and using only an M8 4cm bolt on each corner with rubber washers to minimize metal clashing noises.

The vibrations come through much more now and do not feel flex at all (Is also true that i do not have load cell pedals that requires a lot of KG of force).

But since i have not seen anyone doing it like this im guessing there has to be something very wrong with using just a nude bolt to hold the seats/pedals without rubber surrounding them.

Anyway this is a temporary setup since i am willing to use the Racebass springs.i have not seen them yet and i wonder if someone could share pictures with me or give any info.(Trying to get in touch with simtag to preorder them).
 

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metalnwood

Premium
That should not make thing better unless you have the lfe mounted on the wrong side of the bolts/bobbins and from the picture of the seat mounts I can't be sure.

So just to be sure. You have the bobbin. On top of the bobbins should be the seat, anything the seat is mounted to and the lfe attached to that. All on top of the bobbin.
 
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That should not make thing better unless you have the lfe mounted on the wrong side of the bolts/bobbins and from the picture of the seat mounts I can't be sure.

So just to be sure. You have the bobbin. On top of the bobbins should be the seat, anything the seat is mounted to and the lfe attached to that. All on top of the bobbin.
Yes, everything (Seat,Buttkickers and structure holding them together) is on top of the bobbins.

Vibrations from the buttkicker go to the seat "directly" and to reach the rig they have to go through the bobbins.

Now i am not using bobbins only the bolt which if i understand correctly will let less vibrations go to the rig, since the bolt has to be there even if i use the bobbins.Maybe the bobbins i used were too rigid.
 
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metalnwood

Premium
That really doesnt make a lot of sense so its a head scratcher? I can only think perhaps there is some other issue thta was somewhat rectified when you moved things around like not a very good connection from amp to LFE, or not fully seated stereo jack etc.

A 500W amp should put out heaps if it delivers what it says it does. You say you 'get little shake' but enough to test. I think you should get more than you need so I do wonder if there is another issue.
 
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Ill check it tomorrow.Both buttkickers are performing equally so i guess it is not faulty unit.Do not know how much performance should the buttkickers deliver with a 500w amp.But it is not much.In fact i feel them about the same as the 2 dayton exciters directly glued to the seat.
 
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The only thing i see could be wrong is my main windows volume control shows 50% for Realtek Audio (Driving the Buttkickers) and for the sounblaster X3 (Driving the exciters).If i try to change it , it automatically goes back to 50%.

That does not happens for my USB wireless headphones for which windows lets me use 100% of volume.

I have the PC connected to the amp with a jack3,5mm cable to RCA male and i use XLR adapter to plug into the amp..Do not see what could be wrong there

From the amp i use SpeakON to SpeakON cable to a Neutrix NL4 MMX to attach to another SpeakON that goes to the buttkicker. I wired the SpeakON cables my self allways using +1 for black cable and -1 for red cable, which i think is the right thing to do. Also here do not see what could be wrong.¿Could it be something with the cables i made (inverted poles or something)?

All knobs in the AMP are turned all the way to max power and no DSP involved whatsoever.I use this same AMP to power my homecinema and i have no problem.
 
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metalnwood

Premium
Simhub is changing the volume on any audio sevice it is set to use.. So it you have two audio cards used by simhub they will stay at simhubs setting. If you move them manually they will bounce back to simhubs setting.

Otherwise I dont know, other than there should be no comparison between the puck and the lfe on an amp that is 500W/channel.
 
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Ill leave some links to videos showing how they sound in comparision.

Idle sound of buttkickers and exiters:

Exiters sound with simhub test:

Buttkicker Seat sound with simhub test:

Buttkicker Pedals sound with simhub test:

Buttkicker Pedals with throttle:
 
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Connected the seat buttkicker directly to the amp.(First i had a intermediate NL4 MMX connector) , used a new speaker cable and feels stronger.

Anyway i should have the NX3000D in a couple of weeks and will see.
 
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A future addon i would like to build into the rig is a Wind simulator.

I play mainly open-wheel cars and i am planning on building a structure that mimics the in-game cockpit so that it blocks the wind in a convincing way and i feel it only mainly in the face and reinforce the feeling of being in a cockpit.

What i imagine would make it more realistic(since i've never tried one) is the wind being really strong as you would feel it in a real formula 1. Of course I am not going to blow 300km/h wind in my room but it has to be pretty strong and do not feel like ventilators but more as actual wind.

This is a future upgrade that will come only after i have the harware tactile system and simhub effects worked out.And the G-belt installed and integrated.

For those with wind simulation solutions:
Is there built solutions that strong that really feel like wind?, Or should i go directly to a DIY solution?.
 
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metalnwood

Premium
If that is delivering 22-24 mph over 12" that will feel like quite a bit, of course it depends how far away you actually mount them to yourself ans they drop off fast.

I dont know why he decided to turn off the sound for the speed tests and imo, you dont get any impression of how loud they are during his driving test. I cant imagine they could be any louder than diy options using blowers though. So perhaps a bit academic in that respect.

You should also take in to consideration other things you may want to do, i.e. tubing etc. For instance, on full blast my HTC blower is 77km/h (!48mph) from the front of the fan, buy the time it has gone through its ducting and another 12" it is down to 24kmh (15mph).

So you have to take that kind of thing in to consideration if you are going for as much wind as you can.

I only use it to stay cool so I don't run it too fast anyway, just enough to not overheat.
 
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