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Bram Hengeveld

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Server name: RACEDEPARTMENT.COM CLUB
Track: Curitiba
Practice: 19:00 GMT (30 minutes)
Qualification: 19:30 GMT (10 minutes)
Warm-up: No Warm up
Race: 19:40 (2x25 minutes)
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IMPORTANT: These cars are a handfull to handle on the default setup, with this setup the car becomes stable to make sure you reach the finish line
(download) (Install path: [Game folder] -> UserData -> [Your Profile Name] -> brandshatchgp_btcc11)

With all due respect, that is not a stable setup. If you combine one degree of rear toe-in, low coast & high power differential with underdamped springs, you've got an unpredictable, tail-happy indy car.
 
With all due respect, that is not a stable setup. If you combine one degree of rear toe-in, low coast & high power differential with underdamped springs, you've got an unpredictable, tail-happy indy car.
while testing it for me it feels like a stable setup, it's not too tailhappy on corner entry and not on corner exit and for sure easier to drive then the default setup.
If you feel like you can make a better setup that's stable for everyone to race then go ahead and prove me wrong :thumbsup:
 
sigh... well I am out. My internet connection is really poor today; too poor for multiplayer, anyway. ISP can't fix it until Wednesday, because it's a holiday today and tomorrow :/

Have fun :(
 
In these cars, the clutch is used for starting and stopping. The gearboxes were designed to change gear without the need of the clutch, BUT too not break the gearbox an electronic ignition cut-off momentarily cuts power to the engine while the gear is selected to release the 'load' on the gearbox. (as a clutch does on a road car) A gear-stick is provided in the cockpit with just forward/ backward movement before the idea of paddles on the steering wheel was thought of.!
Is like the v12 car, not? Sorry but my ignorance
 
I'll attach my setup to this post if possible. The differences are (hastily written because I have to go):

- Rear toe-in reduced to zero, in order to minize sudden mid-corner oversteer, more predictable back-end
- power setting to 10% to reduce sudden power oversteer, more control
- coast to 50% (IIRC) to keep the back under better control during braking
- higher preload, again for more stability (note: I haven't had any understeering problems)
- rebound dampers 80% of critical damping, bump 60% (one needs a spreadheet for this) resulting in, yet again, more predictable behaviour

I hope it helps.
 

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I'll attach my setup to this post if possible. The differences are (hastily written because I have to go):

- Rear toe-in reduced to zero, in order to minize sudden mid-corner oversteer, more predictable back-end
- power setting to 10% to reduce sudden power oversteer, more control
- coast to 50% (IIRC) to keep the back under better control during braking
- higher preload, again for more stability (note: I haven't had any understeering problems)
- rebound dampers 80% of critical damping, bump 60% (one needs a spreadheet for this) resulting in, yet again, more predictable behaviour

I hope it helps.
I'm sorry but this defies my logic:
rear toe means the tires are not completely straight, that should make it more stable and not sudden oversteer.
more power diff means the tires won't move as independent from eachother, so more should make the car go more straight on throttle so it reduces the oversteer.
I'm not 100% sure on teh preload and dampers so I can't say about that.
 
Well, your logic is somewhat misguided. I wish I had more time to answer now, but here it is quickly. Generally over 0.2 degrees of rear toe in will result in more mid turn oversteer. It is like the rear is carrying more momentum into the corner. Less power diff will result in earlier, but smoother and more controllable power oversteer -- less snap. Both adjustments will trade some speed for more stability.
 
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