Looking for Fanatec CSW V2 settings/advice

Spinelli · Jun 5, 2015

I'm new to the CSW V2 and have hardly any experience with the wheel prior to the v219 drivers. Although the force is very strong, it doesn't feel as lively as the T500RS does, let alone the even faster (than the T500RS) reacting and even more lively Thrustmaster TX/T300. I'm using the BMW GT2 wheel, I know that it's the heaviest however I presumed that the higher-end and more powerful motor of the CSW V2 would be able to make up for the GT2's weight in-terms of at-least matching the T500RS in it's liveliness.

I like to use a lot of FFB. I love the force and resistance, but it almost seems as if the FFB is too slow at reacting and giving you all the very tiny details, twitches, etc. especially once you start turning the wheel and getting some resistance. When I tested the T500RS and TX with the FFB clipping everywhere (extremely high control panel and in-game FFB settings), the FFB would still remain extremely lively (the clipping may mute details but the wheel was still very quick reactive, very alive).

I was using the Superkarts in GSC for the majority of my experience. First day with the new wheel and I'd like to think my laptimes are not bad (best time of 50.8xx seconds at Velopark, default setup, around 60 laps), but...I don't know...I find myself having to use DRI 4 as the raw, natural wheel (DRI 3) just still feels too slow to initially react, too slow to accelerate in order to speed-up from the very initial reaction, and too "muted" in it's details that felt like were flying at me 100x a second with the TM TX (and to a lesser extent, the T500RS).

The problem with "positive" Drift modes ("4" and "5") is that it almost makes you feel like your FFB settings are reversed as the FFB can actually speed-up at times during turn-in rather than resist and this can really throw you out, not to mention just doesn't feel good nor fun. I therefore really want to use the wheel in DRI mode "3" as that is apparently the raw, natural FFB with no added resistance/damping and no "boosting".

P.S. I obviously set damper, spring, deadzone, and linearty all to off/0.

Patrick Giranthon · Jun 5, 2015

You can give a try with these ones : http://sim-racing-evolution.fr/uploader/files/Patrick/Uploader/Volants.pdf

LotsaBS · Jun 5, 2015

Spinelli said:
I'm new to the CSW V2 and have hardly any experience with the wheel prior to the v219 drivers. Although the force is very strong, it doesn't feel as lively as the T500RS does, let alone the even faster (than the T500RS) reacting and even more lively Thrustmaster TX/T300. I'm using the BMW GT2 wheel, I know that it's the heaviest however I presumed that the higher-end and more powerful motor of the CSW V2 would be able to make up for the GT2's weight in-terms of at-least matching the T500RS in it's liveliness.

I like to use a lot of FFB. I love the force and resistance, but it almost seems as if the FFB is too slow at reacting and giving you all the very tiny details, twitches, etc. especially once you start turning the wheel and getting some resistance. When I tested the T500RS and TX with the FFB clipping everywhere (extremely high control panel and in-game FFB settings), the FFB would still remain extremely lively (the clipping may mute details but the wheel was still very quick reactive, very alive).

I was using the Superkarts in GSC for the majority of my experience. First day with the new wheel and I'd like to think my laptimes are not bad (best time of 50.8xx seconds at Velopark, default setup, around 60 laps), but...I don't know...I find myself having to use DRI 4 as the raw, natural wheel (DRI 3) just still feels too slow to initially react, too slow to accelerate in order to speed-up from the very initial reaction, and too "muted" in it's details that felt like were flying at me 100x a second with the TM TX (and to a lesser extent, the T500RS).

The problem with "positive" Drift modes ("4" and "5") is that it almost makes you feel like your FFB settings are reversed as the FFB can actually speed-up at times during turn-in rather than resist and this can really throw you out, not to mention just doesn't feel good nor fun. I therefore really want to use the wheel in DRI mode "3" as that is apparently the raw, natural FFB with no added resistance/damping and no "boosting".

P.S. I obviously set damper, spring, deadzone, and linearty all to off/0.

The problem may simply lie in the fact that you are using the BMW wheel with the Karts. It may not be well suited for them. I used to have one when I had my CSW v1, but sold it as I found myself not using it much. As you mentioned, the BMW wheel is very heavy (almost 3x as heavy) when compared to the Formula Wheel. Although the CSW v2 is more powerful and accurate than the v1, you are still dealing with the physics of moving the extra weight of the BMW wheel. Years ago, I used to race both Enduro and SuperKarts and in actuality, they are very "twitchy" and have a fairly light steering feel which required very quick reactions. When racing the Karts in GSCE, I use the Formula Wheel on my CSW v2 and find that for a realistic feel (at least to me), I actually had to turn the "in game" FFB effects to Low and strength to around -55. I then run the CSW v2 at default settings with the exception of rotation which (depending on the Kart) is usually around 180-220 degrees. I guess we are all different, as I also used to own a T500RS, but found the CSW (both the v1 and v2) much more to my liking.