Lola T70 MkII Spyder (rF2)

Cars Lola T70 MkII Spyder (rF2) 2.1

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Hi aphidgod,
I don't know if this is the data sheet that you found, but here it is another one. A data sheet from a Mk2 Spyder raced by Paul Hawkins in England and 1966 Can-Am.
I don't know if it is usefull but it has springs and gear ratios information.

Lola_T70_Mk2.jpg


I've been driving alot this Lola and I'me very impressed how acurate it is with real onboard videos and real lap times. I even compared a recent video on goodwood and acceleration from 110mph to 160mph and it took me exatly the 8 seconds of real car. Very good job!

 
Adjustable springs is a good idea, they were entirely user-configurable IRL. (The setup in there now matches a real build sheet I found, but that was only one of many, and the setup was likely changed from track to track once it left the factory anyway.)

In that period, most of the cars did not get much spring tuning. Track-to-track tuning was mostly final drive gearing, shocks, tire pressure (ever changing due to the tire war), alignment, aero trim (add/remove a flap in front, raise/lower rear spoiler), and swaybar. Surtees was towing his Lola on an open trailer with only one or two hired mechanics and arranging for garage space from fans. McLaren in '66 did his development back in England before the fall Pro season and had only a slightly larger team.

So what I'm getting at is if you put adjustable springs in the menu, the range should be rather small.
 
Aphidgod, you could always try contacting the guys at SRMZ who were responsible for recent CanAm 66 mod for GPL. They've modelled four T70 spyders with various engines for the mod, so they might have some useful tech reference data you could use for further tweaking of your Lola.
 
In realty they changed the whole spring. Even the shock absorbers weren`t really adjustable. As you can see on the data sheet, there is only place to put in which kind of absorber is used.

If the drivers where unhappy, the mechanics changed the springs and /or the absorbers. Within the the mostly small and not very rich teams limitations: How many different sets where available and how many the team could afford...:whistling:
 
I have to rely on trial and error with setup but stumbled across something better. I'm down to 1:27.1 ATM

I'd love to know roughly what you did ( I'm not asking for secrets! ) I'm 3s off that right now - some of it is not using all the track because I hardly ever go there, but not 3s worth - & I can't get comfortable in it & not really seeing much more grip available either. I'm quite happy in it at Bridgehampton.

What a marvellous car, anyway - lovely mix of 60's wildness and more modern precision feel. Only complaint is a lack of low-end sound at high RPM but I'll live with that.
 
I'd love to know roughly what you did ( I'm not asking for secrets! ) I'm 3s off that right now - some of it is not using all the track because I hardly ever go there, but not 3s worth - & I can't get comfortable in it & not really seeing much more grip available either. I'm quite happy in it at Bridgehampton.

What a marvellous car, anyway - lovely mix of 60's wildness and more modern precision feel. Only complaint is a lack of low-end sound at high RPM but I'll live with that.
No secrets here, disclaimer though, I'm no setup guru, the attached setup might not work for you.

I enjoy the car more with the front end lowered a bit so that was my base, it oversteers more and understeers less. I ended up increasing neg camber front and rear which has made the car feel a little more understeer prone again but also improved my lap time. If nothing else, you definitely want 0 rear wing and similar tyre pressure (for temp's in the mid 20's.)

I'm loving the car as well, Bridgehampton, Fuji 68, RIR, Silverstone 67 & Thomson Road are all great places to unleash the fury.
 

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  • Silverstone67.ini
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We need the Mk.3 Coupe... you know why;)

I like to drive it also on extra long Rouen les Essartes and on historic Monza full course or the North.
 
No secrets here, disclaimer though, I'm no setup guru, the attached setup might not work for you.

Tiny bit of tweaking to suit my style a bit more & took a second and a half off in 8 laps or so... I'd say that's working, at least better than the old one!

I'm trying to remember why I stayed away from camber on vintage tyres, something I heared somewhere I've forgotten the details of anyway. Time to go fiddle at the Bridge. Anyway, many thanks.
 
Camber and old tyres?

There are two main diffrences:
Up to the 5o ies many, even race cars have positive camber settings, in AC the Maserati 250 F is one of this cars. It´s been done to make easier handling with front motor cars(but much slower curve speed,) and somtimes with the idea, when the suspension is compressed(braking and accelerating) the small tire will have maximum contact to the tracks surface.

Through the next decade things changed, curve speed become more and more they way for winning a race(keep in mind formula 1 changed to small 1500ccm engines, loosing a lot of horse power.) And midengines become popular, causing much less weight on the front. Negative Camber settings become common.

Second the tyres itself changed massivly. Up to the end of the front engine era they are small ones and diagonal belt types. In the 60 ies the radial belts tyres started their victory, and the cars getting more power as before, 3 litre formula and the Prototypes with their big engines were launched. The cars needed complete different tyres, more traction and much higher curve speeds, new disk brakes made their way, and the engines with 400-500 horse powers suddenly showed up. The tyres have to deal with much stronger forces and stress as before. As the consequnce the tyres increased in width but became stiffer in their shoulders and the evolution to our today types took their way.
 
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That's a neat summary, thanks - tyre technology is not something I'm terribly knowledgeable about. When did radials really start being used? 3l F1 was mid-late 60s, but there was plenty of sportscar competition to drive progress; how stiff really were those early radials? I look at '70s balloon tyres & wonder why they even bothered with suspension sometimes...
 
The F1 of the 70ies car have those balloon tires cause of the FISA(FIA) rules: only 13" rims were allowed, if remember correct, and yes those tyres done a lot of suspension work, they had a big and soft shoulder.

For radials with diameter and their height stiffness there is a simple rule: each mm you make the shoulder smaller in height, you haye to increase their stiffness.

And those tyre types have one major difference: their inner nylon belts and how they lay in the rubber. In diagonals the layers are - diagonal. A diagonal tyre had advantages in curves, when tires are small in width. So motorcycles had them up to the mid eighties.

Radial tyres have their layers in radial direction, often accompanied by some steel rings(steel belt). Radials can take much mor forces in the cars driving direction( so they let you accelerate and brake better) but they are bad in taking side forces, when their shoulder is high and soft.

Tire pressure is an easy way to make an axle stiffer or softer, within the tyres limitations.

Too low pressure will cause overheating, slows down the reaction of the car, increase massivly the wear at inner and outer tire side and can cause it to explode.. bad thing when you drive 350 in a 917 in Le Mans.... in RL you had good chance to be get killed...

Too high pressure causes faster reactions of the car, makes it more bumpy and increases the tire wear in the middle of the tyre.

The prototypes, GT and touring cars - especially for endurance racing pushed the tyre manufacturers more in the evolution, which benefits we are all appreciate when we drive our daily driver. Just compare the rims and tires of an 906 up to the 908 and then 917 and so on. The rims seem to explode in diameter and width and the tyres smaller in their diameter height, radials helped to make them stiff enough to take the brutal forces, but the cars suspension has much more work on bumps and to keep the car on the road.

And then keep in mind what the poor rear tyres of an 917/30 had to endure... up to 1500 hp released on them... and those terryfing curve speeds in the bankings... i´m still surprised how mid 70ies tyres can take this... but they did.
 
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I've driven a ( 50s - think it was a Morris Minor ) car on crossply tyres, was an interesting experience - especially as my first car ( MG ) was built on the same running gear. Mind you that was an experience all by itself, given it wouldn't stay straight in the wet...

It's not just 70s single-seaters though, group 5/6 & even touring cars from the era have pretty high profile tyres. I know why we add camber & the basics of what a tyre does under lateral forces, just not really aware of the fine details of how tyre flex affects handling ( which would lead us back to setting up high-profile vintage tyres again ).

I suspect I'm too clod-footed on the brakes to get really good with this car, I can't see anywhere else I'm losing so much time at silverstone. Bridge is the sort of track I'm good at, doesn't need the same sort of braking.
 
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That´s correct, on tracks like Slverstone or Monza the T70 Mk 2 is not effective. The T 70 spyder is not made for high speed tracks, it´s build for more handling on tracks like Bridgehapmton or for example Riverside and Sebring. For the high speed tracks the car was more used with the coupe fairing set, for more top speed and more downforce in fast turns. The open cockpit decreases the top speed, but gives a deeper center of weight.

The Group 5/6 have more profile, cause the tyres were only changed for heavy rain etc. These tyres were build to run the whole distance.

Your experience with diagonal tires... i can only affirm... they are unstable and no fun to drive.
 
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I'll have a look when I'm back from vacation, but since I don't own a wheel and therefore must do all of my physics development with a gamepad using autoclutch, I can basically promise you it works perfectly.

There's no downshift protection as this car predates computerized gearboxes by a few decades.

Hey aphidgod,

I guess there was a lill misunderstanding. :)
I dont have a problem with the non existing DOWNshift-protection. This car had manual gearing, so shifting down is usually done with double-clutch. And therefor the "Throttle Blip" works fine in Assetto.

The problem is the UPshifting part, because the auto-clutch-feature of AC isnt working with the Lola.

Unfortunately my wheelbase died on me, but a new one is already ordered. I'll make you a short video to clarify this issue, as soon as the new one arrived.

No hurry, enjoy your vacation. :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, I'm interested to see the issue you're having because, like I said, I've never used a manual clutch of any kind on the PC and it's worked fine for me. I couldn't actually drive it in the first place without that being the case. :)

Same goes for every one of the cars I've done.

The (Hewland DG400, IIRC) gearbox this thing is modeled with is a 4-speed with straight-cut gears that use dog engagement, not synchros, so no need for fancy (or any) clutch work IRL once it's rolling.

Anyway, I'm back on the 5th. I have a big update in the works and I'll try to take care of whatever this is before it goes live. Hope you get your wheel troubles sorted soon!

(Since the message was received, I've deleted my response to your review in the event you want to edit it in the future. :D )
 
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