Like your FFB strong? Think again..

Niels_at_home

Reiza Studios
Heyas,

I've been around this simracing scene now forever and it seems the vast majority of folks like to run very high force feedback settings. Then you often read claims how great it feels and how they can even feel the effect of flies building up on the windscreen through these FFB settings (sarcasm = on). Some even feel when the coffee is done in the kitchen (sarcasm = still on)..

Force Feedback talk
Good sims will use complex physics engines to calculate the force feedback. Part of the feel is the tires, part is the suspension geometry, and this all changes with steering angle and things like how much weight (load) is on the tires.

If you'd only feel the tire part of the force feedback, the forces would be near ZERO by the time you've applied the optimum steering angle to get maximum grip. Thats just how tire physics (pneumatic trail) works, give or take some margins. Counter intuitive eh, but its often near true!

Suspension geometry usually adds a chunk of force, but still it is higly likely that the force you feel in a racing car drops off after a certain amount of steering and by the time you've applied the optimum steering angle for max grip, force through the steering wheel might be about half of the maximum.

That means when the steering goes light in a racing car, you might not be understeering at all, you might be right at the maximum grip levels!

Problems with sims
Even when your favourite sim has good tire and suspension physics, that doesn't mean your wheel (G25, Fanatec, Thrustmaster etc) will behave properly. The physics engine will just calculate a torque or a steering rack force, perhaps during a lap this value is between 0 and 5000 Newtons.

At some point the sim will have to tell your FFB steering wheel what force it has to apply. You can imagine there is some scaling required. Ideally the 0 .. 5000Newton that occur on the track should be the range where your FFB wheel responds between 0% and 100% of its capable force.

This scaling is NOT DONE AUTOMATICALLY by iracing / LFS / rFactor&Realfeel !! You have to scale this yourself. In iRacing and LFS its the force feedback strength in the menu, with rFactor&Realfeel there is the realfeelplugin.ini 'Max Force' entry to adjust.

When you scale the forces down too much, you get weak force feedback. When you don't scale them down enough, you're asking more from your wheel than it can do, so at some point the forces will be trimmed. This is called 'clipping'. If your wheel has a maximum of 100, you can't make it do 200. So anything you ask from it above 100, you won't feel a difference.

First chart: Scaling the force feedback

ffb1.png

The blue line is how a good simulator might calculate the force feedback strength versus your steering wheel angle. It is what it *wants* your FFB wheel to do.

Lets say proper scaling means you have to run the ingame FFB strength at 20% which is not uncommon at all. In this example, 20% strength matches the maximum occuring force feedback of the physics engine to the maximum feedback your wheel can put out.

If you'd use 100% ingame FFB strength, you would only have a small part of the desired curve fit below that line. That is bad.


Second chart: Results
ffb2.png


This chart is the results; what YOU feel on your wheel. You can see that running 100% FFB strength tries to make your wheel 5x stronger than it really is. It just can't do it, so you feel the red line. Apply steering, forces max out *very* quickly, and as you steer more, the force stays maxed out. It hasn't got the power to follow the desired dotted line. This is what many simracers do probably without knowing it. The force feedback isn't detailed at all, its almost on/off.

The green line is what you get with proper scaling. It follows the desired shape exactly, but now with the maximum occuring force nicely matched to your wheels maximum deliverable force.

Now why does 100% still feel stronger than 20%, despite the maximum force being the same? At 100% you have to grip the wheel like mad because any slight bump or minimal steering will result in maximum force. Once you're steering, the forces are mostly constant, but going near straight you feel strong jolts left/right as micro bumps / steering inputs cause these forces. Wheels setup like this are often unstable and will oscillate when you let go of the wheel on the straight. For some reason lots of folks think this feels good.

So how do I set this up correctly then?
Thats the hard part. Even on the same car if you change the car setup (caster, downforce) the numbers will change. On a flat street circuit the values will be different than in a fast banked oval.

Realfeel with rFactor is the easiest, you can drive the car on a track, look at the telemetry, and the 'Steering Arm Force' that you see in a hard corner is your desired Realfeel.ini "MaxForce" entry. Don't look at short spikes of force, go for a sort of average force you see in a fast bend.

With other sims its a matter of getting a feel for what your wheel can do. Once you know what its maximum strength feels like, lower the ingame FFB strength until you clearly are below this maximum force. Then add force slowly until you get to the point where it seems saturation occurs. I can't help much, the FFB strength will typically be between 1% and 100% :S. Try the maximum force in a steady corner, because on a straight, the sudden left/right jolts of too strong force feedback will make it feel subjectively stronger than it is.

Conclusions?
Current wheels like the G27 are fairly weak; they can't really deliver a strong force. It is very easy to try and ask too much from the wheel. It might also lead to overheating and faster wear!

I've tried to show you what force feedback scaling does and how running too strong force feedback settings can numb down the detail you feel, even when it *seems* like the effects are nice and strong.

Everybody is free of course to use whatever setting they like, but at least this shows that people running very high FFB strengths claiming they get lots of detail and a good feel for the car, are wrong from an objective point of view.
 
Right, so its combination of G25 Profiler settings with ingame settings

I'll start with iRacing

Profiler:
Strength 101%
Spring 0%
Damper 0%
Centering Spring 0% but enabled
Rotation 900

Ingame
FFB 12

Thats what I use. Would that be the best I can get with feedback, or its decreasing the profiler strength and increasing ingame FFB?

Still confused with the read but I'm getting there hehe.
 
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Well basically, clipping happens when your FFB is set too high. When set at max, it becomes binary, either on at max strength, or off. Right now I imagine every bump, curb and tankslapper feels exactly the same, because it is on or off.

When set right, bumps will only just push at your hands, curbs will only just shake your fingertips, and tankslappers will only just be able to move the wheel. That is how it should feel, as long as your not gripping the wheel like a gorilla lol.

When racing, we use our thumb and palm to hold the wheel at the 9+3 positions, and we use our fingers to feel the track. So there is barely any strength needed for a real feel, you just need it so the tank slapper will turn the wheel, and that curbs and bumps will give you feel, but without turning the wheel (unless the curb in question is the ski-jump at Silverstone).

As for centering, at 60mph the wheels will want to center on entry, and exit, and provide a little bit of force to ask for it, at 120mph the force is doubled. so you could basically use your centering strength to get the force from turn in and exit. Although I'm not sure if it would allow the wheel to go super-light when the grip is lost, as it does in real life. So basically, when you are on grass, the wheel should have no resistance, and while cornering it should be wanting to center.

Real wheels are not affected by springs and dampers, only by camber, toe, caster tyre width and compound. So I don't know why it has settings for those.maximum rotation in a road car is 720°, in all race cars, it is much less, in rally cars, it is the same. So to set your rotation, find out a little about the class you race, and set your rotation to the same amount.
 
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After some play with the setting i came up with this for race 07 & G25.

Profiler:
Overall - 77%
Spring Effects - 74%
Damper effects - 63%

Center spring - 0% with box ticked

Allowing game to adjust settings: yes

In game:
FF:
Medium
ff strenght - 75%
steering force - 75%
steering vib. - 0%
engine - 0%
brakes - 0%
curbs - 5%
impact - 15%

If i go any lower the ff become too weak to read, those setting are very close to what i had, just slightly weaker. I think thats my perfect settings for race 07 :)
 
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Real wheels are not affected by springs and dampers, only by camber, toe, caster tyre width and compound. So I don't know why it has settings for those.maximum rotation in a road car is 720°, in all race cars, it is much less, in rally cars, it is the same. So to set your rotation, find out a little about the class you race, and set your rotation to the same amount.

720° for road cars? I have driven a lot road cars. And they typically vary from 1080° to 1440°.
 
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A normal power steering assisted car has about 3 turns lock to lock... So 1080°...

A Corvette (C6 at least) and a Porsche 944 have 2.5 turns lock to lock... So 900°...

Most GT cars have 540° as do a few Formula's (F1 at Monaco uses that)

Rally cars range from about 450° to 720° (Top classes)

1440° was mostly use on non-power assisted road car in the 60's and 70's... Some even had 5 turns lock to lock !!!
 
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Interesting thread. I bought fanatec gt3 wheel a few days ago and still tweaking ffb. I have to say, that it isn't so easy for a newbe.

The first time I tried it, the wheel was maxed as default and because I'm the "real man" (LOL) I tried maxed ffb settings in simbin's race game. Ouch, I couldn't even came out of garage. :facepalm: The ffb on this wheel is quite impressive. I certainly didn't expected this. I started using ligter ffb settings, but after couple of days I found out that I constantly trying more and more stronger ffb. But not too much strong, it's still a game!

But I do have maxed setting in game. I'm going to try changing that right now. :confused:
 
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I've just done changes and it feels much better. I set ff strength to 25% a tweaked other effects. Surprisingly, now I can feel when I push against tires when turning steering wheel in corners.

Here are my settings for fanatec gt3 rs:

race 07 game:

ff effects - max
ff strength - 25%
reverse effects - on
steering force - 33%
steering vibration - 20%
engine - 20%
brakes - 50%
curbs - 100%
impact - 200%

wheel:
sen 100, sho 100, dri 0, abs 100, lin 0, dea 0, spr 0, dpr 0

But I'm sure that I will tweak it a bit...

Edit: I still haven't found optimal FFB for me. I constantly changing it. Funny...
 
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Here are my settings for fanatec gt3 rs:

race 07 game:

ff effects - max

- LOW - steering force ( steering+grip )
- MEDIUM - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble
- HIGH - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble+ brakes vibration
- MAX - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble+ brakes vibration+ throttle vibration+ steering vibration

You really shouldn't go higher then medium as ALL the effects from driving are already there. By going high or max you add artificial effects which only adds chaos to what you can read from the wheel ff.
Going from low to max will NOT affect the overall strength of the wheel, it only adds more ff effects.
 
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- LOW - steering force ( steering+grip )
- MEDIUM - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble
- HIGH - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble+ brakes vibration
- MAX - steering force+ damper+ friction+ strips rumble+ brakes vibration+ throttle vibration+ steering vibration

You really shouldn't go higher then medium as ALL the effects from driving are already there. By going high or max you add artificial effects which only adds chaos to what you can read from the wheel ff.
Going from low to max will NOT affect the overall strength of the wheel, it only adds more ff effects.

I'm so used to the brake vibration, artificial or not, that I need that to get any kind of feedback from the brakes, so HIGH is the right setting for me ;)
But MAX should be a no go, that throttle or engine vibration that it generates is very annoying.
 
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In real life nothing happens on gravel or grass either. The only thing that would happen, is the steering wheel would flick to one side if you hit something hard, like a banner, builder, or wall. While on slippy surfaces like grass and gravel, the steering should go light. If your expecting vibrations from the uneven surface, that would be felt through the seat, not the wheel or pedals.
 
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Rack and pinion is power assisted in most cases, just a different design from the worm gear systems of old. The only time the feeling in gravel would get heavy is when you attempt to turn the wheels and the car keeps going straight as you build up a lot of gravel beside the wheel pushing it more into a turn at that point. Grass is going to be just like being on ice a lot of the time. Very little feedback ever unless the ground is rough that the grass is on, then you will feel a bit of bumpiness.
 
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Yeah with the old worm gear you'd feel it for sure, but grass and gravel are pretty slippy. Gravel shouldn't be that difficult unless you've buried your fronts or your stopped, if the wheels are moving it'll life the build up out of the way, It's also the same reason the steering is actually pretty light all of the time, because the wheels are rotating.

And speaking of grip feedback, I've been looking at iRacings new tyre build. Looks like it's the first that doesn't work with coefficient of friction (the bit that fakes all feedback and grip etc.) Thats gonna make it an awesome tyre, lets hope the rest of the tyre is put together nicely :D
 
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